DELAYED POST, I am catching up our blog after our blogging hiatus while recovering from walking the Camino de Santiago.
November 24, 2013
Children’s’ Carnival
Just before Thanksgiving, Carcassonne offered a week-long Children’s Carnival at the west side of the Bastide, the traditional “old town.”
The carnival just “popped up” out of the blue. Carcassonne seems to be very much be like Reno, Nevada with special events nearly every weekend. We used the fun to expose Sami, the mini-pin puppy, to the excitement and noise. We keep working on socializing her well with people and background noise. We had fun sipping vin chaud (hot spiced wine) and watching happy children.
DELAYED POST, I am catching up our blog after our blogging hiatus while recovering from walking the Camino de Santiago.
November 28, 2013
Tracy and I enjoying our first Thanksgiving abroad. We celebrated the traditional American (and Canadian) holiday to keep our old family traditions alive while adopting new local traditions.
While our apartment does have an oven, it is a trifle on the small size. So I located a large turkey breast, more than enough for the two of us (plus leftovers for cold turkey sandwiches and turkey omelets.) Tracy had the experience of, after years of cooking extra-large turkeys, and sometimes more than one, for family gathering figuring out the correct timing for a single turkey breast. Finally the challenge of converting the fahrenheit temperatures to the oven’s celsius settings.
Tracy dominated our little French oven for some amazing turkey, mashed potatoes with gravy, corn, deviled eggs, garlic bread, with a local rosé wine. It was a classic, wonderful dinner followed by Religieuse creme puff pastries from our favorite pâtisserie. Sami, the min-pin puppy, had her first “people food” with a Thanksgiving dinner all her own.
Wonderful quiet evening at home despite missing our large extended family back in the US, whom we visited with via FaceTime later in the evening.
While visiting with us in Carcassonne, Adam and Liz had the chance to tour the medieval city, la Cité de Carcassonne, a couple of times. We refer to it as “the castle in our backyard” since it is right up the street from our apartment.
Adam and Liz in front of the medieval city la Cité de CarcassonneAdam and Liz in front of the Narbonne Gate of the medieval city la Cité de CarcassonneAdam and Liz in front of the Aude Gate of the medieval city la Cité de Carcassonne
A UNESCO World Heritage Site and dating back 2,500 years, the medieval city of a Cité de Carcassonne has 52 towers and two concentric walls with a total of three kilometer of ramparts. Within the walls is a 12th century chateau built by the Trencavels, the Vicomtes de Carcassonne and the Basilique Saint-Nazaire-et-Saint-Celse de Carcassonne (the Basilica of St. Nazaire and St. Celse). Jousting is still performed annually in the baileys of the citadel’s walls.
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We were also able to take a short barge cruise with Adam and Liz down the section of the Canal du Midi that passes through Carcassonne. The 17th century Canal du Midi, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, is described by UNESCO as a “360-km network of navigable waterways linking the Mediterranean and the Atlantic through 328 structures (locks, aqueducts, bridges, tunnels, etc.) is one of the most remarkable feats of civil engineering in modern times. Built between 1667 and 1694, it paved the way for the Industrial Revolution.” The canal is used primarily today for recreational boating.
Liz and Adam enjoying their Barge cruise on the Canal du MidiTracy and Alan having fun on a barge cruise on the Canal du Midi
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During our explorations there was always time to relax, talk, enjoy a meal, or have a cold beverage. Then on to exploring more of Carcassonne and France.
Adam, Tracy, Kiara, Alan, and Liz take a wine, beer, and champagne break in Place Carnot in the Bastide of CarcassonneAdam, Liz, and Tracy with the Ferris Wheel set up in Square Gambetta for Festival de Carcassonne.
With the temperatures reaching up into the 90s, we wanted to visit the Mediterranean with Adam and Liz. We tried to facilitate a SCUBA dive, but had difficulties getting connected to dive shops in Narbonne. So it was off to the beach for old-fashioned “sun and surf.”
The Narbonne Plage (Narbonne Beach) is one of several Mediterranean Sea beaches in the Languedoc-Roussillon region. Narbonne Plage is well west of the Côte d’Azur (known in English as the French Riviera) on the Mediterranean coastline in the southwest corner of France. The beach is 5 km of wide, fine sandy beach with a marina and restaurants. It is a public “locals’ beach,” or rather the “poor man’s” Riviera, with all the beauty of the Med without the extravagant cost of the Côte d’Azur.
We caught the regional TER (transport express régional) train from Carcassonne to Narbonne and then took one of the special summer buses to the beach. There were many other beach-goers on the bus with us. Surprisingly, Narbonne Plage is 25 minutes away from the train station, with a scenic view of central Narbonne and the Montagne de la Clape mountain range along the way.
Adam and Liz enjoying the Mediterranean Sea at Narbonne Plage
Fortifying ourselves with food and sangria (and a bit more sangria) we ventured out into the water. Beautiful sandy beach, very minimal crowds despite the full bus, warm water with a beautiful gradient of color from green to deep blue as the water gets deeper. There were lifeguard stations, lifeguards in Zodiac boats, and a police presence with swimsuit-wearing officers from the CRS Police (Direction Centrale des Compagnies Républicaines de Sécurité – Central Directorate of the Republican Security Companies; DCCRS).
While Tracy and I contented ourselves with wading, Adam and Liz splashed right into the sea for a swim. Wonderful day of water, walking the beach, investigating the marina, collecting shells, watching the surf fishermen, SCUBA divers (we knew there had to be divers there), and sailboats.
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We took a different bus back toward the train station that normally stops several blocks away from the station. However, our driver very kindly drove us all the way to the bus stop at the train station.
The Festival de Carcassonne (Carcassonne Festival) is one of the major cultural events for the South of France and is now one of France’s largest festivals with nearly 120 shows ranging from opera, dance, theatre, classical music, cirque, French and international popular music. More than 80 of the 120 shows have free admission. It’s Carcassonne’s version of Arttown with an emphasis on the performing arts. From the end of June to August, artists perform at 10 different venues, including the Roman theatre in the medieval fortress of la Cité de Carcassonne.
Festival de Carcassonne
Adam and Liz just happened to be visiting us over Adam’s birthday. As Karma would have it, one of Adam’s favorite bands, Smashing Pumpkins, was performing in Théâtre Jean-Deschamps insidela Cité de Carcassonne for Festival de Carcassonne on Adam’s birthday. The only “band shirt” Adam brought on this trip just happened to be from Smashing Pumpkins’ “Zero” tour.
Adam wearing his Smashing Pumpkins’ Zero shirt
Smashing Pumpkins was performing at the Festival de Carcassonne as part of their European “Shamrocks and Shenanigans 2013” tour. The universe had spoken and Adam and Liz were going to spend the evening of Adam’s 22nd birthday watching Smashing Pumpkins perform in the former Roman amphitheater of la Cité’s Théâtre Jean-Deschamps within the citadel’s fortified walls and in the shadow of the Basilique Saint-Nazaire-et-Saint-Celse de Carcassonne (Basilica of St. Nazaire and St. Celse.)
Smashing Pumpkins’ program page for Festival de Carcassonne
Adam and Liz arrived early at the theater to wait in line and were rewarded with seats in the second row from the stage. While standing in line they had a long discussion with an English-speaking French couple from Toulouse about the music scene in Europe.
Liz and Adam pointing out a Smashing Pumpkins sign in Place Carnot
Adam and Liz had a great time at the concert, right up front to the stage, and they captured some great photos of the performance.
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And, of course, afterwards Liz got Adam a “Shamrocks and Shenanigans 2013” concert tour shirt for his birthday.
Adam in a Smashing Pumpkins’ “Shamrocks and Shenanigans” tour shirtAdam in a Smashing Pumpkins’ “Shamrocks and Shenanigans” tour shirt
The La Fête Nationale (Bastille Day) fireworks in Carcassonne are famous throughout the world. In a beautiful medieval setting, the fireworks are lit among the ramparts and, as they shoot into the sky, they light the city below. The display has become extremely popular since its inception in 1898, with more than 700,000 people attending the festivities each year. It is the largest fireworks display in France with a full 25 minutes of pyrotechnics including “Burning the Cite,” immersing the medieval city of la Cité de Carcassonne in a red glow like the city is under siege and on fire.
Tracy, Adam, Liz, Kiara, and I watched from the banks of the river Aube along Quai Bellevue. We arrived early and enjoy a picnic, Adam Juggled for the crowd, watch people play petanque, Kiara was doted on, drank wine, and we chatted with our neighbors while waiting for the fireworks to start. A festive and friendly atmosphere.
La Fête Nationale (Bastille Day) is the French national holiday commemorating the storming of the Bastille on July 14, 1789, a pivotal event the anti-monarchy revolution.
Liz, Adam, Tracy, and Kiara enjoying a picnic while we wait for the fireworks to start.Adam juggling for the crowd while waiting for the fireworksFireworks over the medieval city of la Cité de Carcassonne
A project I started in the first few weeks after we arrived in Carcassonne was setting up a French bank account. This wasn’t the same as those people you read about in the news with numbered foreign bank accounts in Switzerland, the Cayman Islands, Bermuda, or Luxembourg as a tax dodge. Our intentions is to follow the financial rules and to stay under the $10,000 maximum balance in a foreign account that would require a FBAR, or “Report of Foreign Bank and Financial Accounts,” Treasury Form TD F 90-22.1 be filed with the US IRS.
We wanted a French bank account for three common sense reasons.
The first reason was that to minimize foreign transaction and conversion fees from our US bank. An international wire transfer currently has a flat $35.00 fee compared to being “nickel and dimed” with withdrawals and conversion fees every time we patronize French ATMs and businesses with our US bank cards. Being on a fixed income we want to minimize the monthly fees that we can control. It would be less expensive for us to transfer one larger amount of cash into a French bank account and use a local debit card for purchases.
Secondly is that France was one of the innovators of the “Chip and Pin” style, EMV credit/debit card. (EMV is Europay – Mastercard – Visa, a global standard for integrated circuit cards and “IC” card capable “point of sale terminals” and ATMs used to authenticate credit and debit card transactions.) While a traditional US style cards will work in many ATMs and at some businesses in France, many businesses will only accept the “Chip and PIN” style card or not understand how to “swipe” a traditional US card. We wanted greater flexibility in our day-to-day life and our US bank is not issuing “Chip and PIN” cards yet. Regular US cards (with some exceptions) are not scheduled to transition to “Chip and PIN” EMV technology until 2015-2017. On their recent visit to France, Adam and Liz found their US cards worked at the ATM but not in restaurants or clubs.
Finally, there are times when technology fails and an ATM or business does not get a response back from international data lines and computers with US-based cards. We wanted a back-up in the event of sunspots, earthquakes, satellite outages, volcanos, undersea cable breaks, or the “Blue Screen of Death.” I like “belt and suspender” redundancy. We also wanted a backup in case our US card is lost or stolen.
The process of setting up a French bank account took about 12 weeks for us to complete from beginning to end. Because our US bank is Bank of America, we selected French bank BNP Paribas (the fourth largest bank in the world) who is Bank of America’s foreign partner in France. Because of this affiliation, Bank of America will waive some fees.
We made an appointment at the local BNP and met with a very helpful bilingual bank officer. The only snag was that she was bilingual in French and Spanish. (We are very close to Spain in Carcassonne.) Between our rudimentary French, my old police Spanish, basic Italian, Google Translate, and our bank officer’s very basic English we started the process for a bank account with the “Chip and PIN” style debit cards referred to as Carte Bleue. We left the meeting with the paperwork started, but we needed to return with additional documentation of our residency.
Between our first and second appointment to the bank we had our meeting with OFII (L’Office Français de l’Immigration et de l’Intégration – French Immigration) which (after a medical exam, chest x-ray, and application review) granted us our Titre de Sejour (resident permits) to upgrade our original visas.
Titre de Sejour
On our second appointment at the bank we brought photocopies of our Titre de Sejour and a detailed copy of our lease with rent receipts to prove our residency in Carcassonne. What our bank officer normally needed by bank policy was also a utility bill (gas, electricity, a land-line telephone) as further proof of residency at the address. We explained (often using pantomime, Italian, and pidgin French) that all the utilities were in our landlord’s name and without a local bank account we could not start a utility account. After conferring with her bank manager the solution was found to send us a registered letter at our address to sign and return as final proof of residency. A very elegant and helpful solution. We appreciated that the bank’s management could “think outside the box” and work with our odd circumstances. In anticipation of the final approval by the bank manager, our bank officer finished the paperwork, assigned us an account number, and told us to return once the registered letter was signed to pick up the bank cards.
The registered letter arrived three days later which we signed and had the receipt sent back to the bank. Soon after claim tickets for our Carte Bleue debit cards arrived in the mail along with “Welcome Customer” letters from BNP.
Now for the confusing part. We went to the back to pick up the cards and were told that they hadn’t arrived from the manufacturer yet and to come back in a week. A week later we were told the same thing. The third week we were getting worried that with our inadequate French, we had missed a step in the process. Should we have made an initial deposit into the account before the bank would release the cards? The fourth week later we spoke with our Bank Officer who was able to convey that because of the internal electronics it takes the manufacturer four to six weeks to make the cards and asked us to be patient and the bank would call us when the cards arrived.
In the mean time our son Adam and his fiancée Liz arrived for a visit and we put the bank cards concerns on hold and had a great visit with them. The day after Adam and Liz left, we received a call from the bank (I stumbled through the telephone conversation in French) that our cards had arrived. After a short walk to the bank (with lunch on the way) we were proud owners of our Cartes Bleue and had officially established a functioning bank account in France. It took two appointments over six weeks and six weeks of waiting for the cards to be manufacturer and arrive at the bank.
Another small step in establishing our expat life in Europe. Now we will work on the online International Transfer process with Bank of America. We expect to have everything set up, validated, and our first wire transfer completed by the middle of August – just in time for our Camino trip!
Adam and Liz were flying into Aéroport Paris–Charles de Gaulle (Charles De Gaulle Airport – Paris) so we needed to travel to the other side of France to meet them. Tracy and I elected to not get a car when we moved to France and because we were traveling with Kiara the Chihuahua using RyanAir or EasyJet (the discount airlines) was not an option. So we made use of SNCF’s (Société Nationale des Chemins de fer Français – French National Railroad Company) regional trains and the newly available Ouigo high-speed train. The Ouigo is a subsidiary of SNCF and is basically a stripped TGV (Train à Grande Vitesse) high-speed train without a club car designed to compete with the discount airlines. The trains happily accept Kiara which made her and us very happy. The Ouigo was comfortable and quiet and we enjoyed a very rural view of France that reminded us of Kansas and Nebraska with lots of grain fields and vineyards.
SNCF TrainTracy and Alan traveling by railTracy and Kiara waiting for the train
Another reason for the Ouigo’s discount fare is its use of secondary train stations. We arrived at the train station at Marne-la-Vallée – Chessy outside Paris only to realize that Marne-la-Vallée is the station for Disneyland-Paris. We hadn’t realized that walking out the station door would put us immediately at the entrance to Disneyland. We caught the RER (Réseau Express Régional – Regional Express Network) commuter train from Marne-la-Vallée to Paris and then the famous Paris Métropolitain (subway) to our hotel in the Montmartre district of Paris in the 18th arrondissement, a Right Bank arts neighborhood.
We arrived a day earlier than Adam and Liz’s arrival, so we did an evening stroll to visit Sacré-Cœur Basilica. Located at the summit of the Butte Montmartre, the highest point in the Paris, the Basilica of the Sacred Heart of Paris, more commonly called Sacré-Cœur Basilica, is a Roman Catholic church and minor basilica, dedicated to the Sacred Heart of Jesus. Built of white travertine stone, the Basilica is brilliantly illuminated and stunning at night.
Sacré-Cœur BasilicaSacré-Cœur Basilica
The Basilica complex has a large garden area and a fountain. There is an amazing panoramic view overlooking Paris from the Basilica and garden. The Basilica complex is a favorite meeting place for young people with more than a hundred on the grounds socializing as we explored. To reach the top of Butte Montmartre there is a steep series of stairs with over 300 steps or a funicular railway. The funicular has two parallel tracks with one car on each: one car going up counter-balancing the other car coming down. In a minute and a half the funicular travels 354 horizontal feet and climbs the 35% gradient 118 vertical feet to the top of Butte Montmartre. It is well worth the cost of one Métro ticket to enjoy a ride to the top. The funicular transports about two million passengers each year.
Tracy and Kiara on the Montmartre FunicularMontmartre Funicular
With Sacré-Cœur Basilica around the corner from our hotel enjoyed the beauty of the Basilica on the hill above us and we later returned to share the sight with Adam and Liz.
View of Paris from Sacré-Cœur Basilica (Wikimedia Commons)
We were thrilled to have our first visitors since we started our expat life abroad.
Our youngest son Adam and his fiancée Liz spent 18 days with us. We combined the visit with travel to Paris, Barcelona, the Mediterranean Sea, and sharing our adopted home in Carcassonne. I plan to write about their visit by breaking it up into an individual blog postings for each of the different locations we enjoyed exploring together.
Alan, Tracy, Liz, and Adam in front of the Pyramid at the Louvre Museum in Paris
It was such a pleasure to share our new life with Adam and Liz (and to congratulate Adam on earning his bachelor degree just a few weeks previous to their visit.) We explored shared interests in great cities, history, cultures, lifestyles, art, travel, architecture and enjoyed conversation, food, and drink. Adam and Liz are vegetarians so we had an opportunity to examine a totally different food culture in our travels than we had previously had a chance to try. Adam juggled on the streets of Paris, Liz sampled Sangria in Barcelona, we splashed in the Mediterranean, Adam and Liz demonstrated their Spanish language skills, we celebrated Adam’s 22 birthday (and Adam and Liz attended a performance of his favorite band that just happened to be in town on his birthday for Festival de Carcassonne), and all of us (including Kiara) watched France’s biggest fireworks extravaganza for Bastille Day with the medieval city of Carcassonne as a backdrop.
Adam, Tracy, Kiara, Alan, and Liz having a wine, beer, and champagne break in Place Carnot in the Bastide of Carcassonne
All in all, it was a spectacular visit which made us look forward to our next visitors.