With Adam and Liz newly arrived in Carcassonne, they had an opportunity to attend one of the many events that seem to be happening all year-long. Their first event was at the medieval city of la Cité de Carcassonne: the 25ème Tour de l’Aude des Voitures Anciennes en Pays Cathare (25th Annual Tour de l’Aude Vintage Car Rally through Cathare Country.) Eighty plus cars from 1914 to 1945 of the most prestigious brands (Delage, Delahaye, Rolls Royce, Talbot, Bugatti …) from all over Europe. Like “Hot August Nights” for vintage European cars (plus a few US cars like a classic Mustang and Cadillac.)
Tracy, Liz, and Adam at the 25ème Tour de l’Aude des Voitures Anciennes en Pays Cathare (25th Annual Tour de l’Aude Vintage Car Rally.)Liz and Adam at the Narbonne gate of the medieval city of la Cité de Carcassonne
Sometimes the universe presents a chain of events that require that you “make a leap of faith” and embrace it.
Recently fate led us to being on one of the secondary routes of the Camino de Santiago de Compostela pilgrimage trail. While living in Carcassonne we slowly realized that the start of the Chemin du Piémont Pyrénéen branch of Les Chemins de Saint-Jacques-de-Compostele (the French name for the Camino de Santiago de Compostela) was right at the end of our block.
Chemin du Piémont Pyrénéen
El Camino de Santiago de Compostelaor The Way of Saint James is a series of pilgrimage trails across Europe all leading to Santiago de Compostela Cathedral in Galicia, Spain which Christian tradition holds is the resting place for Saint James the Greater, one of Jesus of Nazareth’s disciples. Dating back 1,200 years, pilgrims of all faiths and backgrounds have been walking the Santiago de Compostela for religious, spiritual, or cultural reasons; for enlightenment; as penance; or as a personal challenge.
Map of Camino de Santiago – Chemins de Saint Jacques From Wikimedia Commons
Tracy and I (with Kiara the micro-dog) have decided starting August 26 we will begin the pilgrimage and backpack the 500 miles (800 kilometer) path from Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port on France’s Western border; over the Pyrenees Mountains and through Basque country; passing through the cities of Pamplona (famous for the “Running of the Bulls and Hemingway’s “The Sun Also Rises”), Logroño, Burgo, and León; across the Meseta plains; into the green hills of Galicia; and ending at the UNESCO World Heritage Site of the city of Santiago de Compostela and its cathedral. The trek should take us a minimum of five weeks.
Camino de Santiago – The French Route (Google Maps)
Our preparations so far:
1. Our hiking equipment has been obtained, most importantly our boots. The number one issue we hear from every guidebook, website, and blog is to have shoes appropriate for you and to break those shoes in thoroughly. I’m an old Boy Scout who has sprained his ankles frequently in the past so I’m an advocate of wearing boots for ankle support although there are many supporter of wearing lightweight hiking shoes for the Camino. The hiking gear we didn’t bring to France was purchased at Decathlon Sports in Carcassonne (a French sports megastore.) Many of the products we obtained are made by Quechua, a French version of “The North Face.” We will post our final equipment list in a later blog.
Tracy’s Camino Gear
2. We requested our credencial, our pilgrim’s passport, from American Pilgrims on the Camino (http://www.americanpilgrims.com), the United States’ confraternity for Camino pilgrims. The credencial allows us to stay at pilgrim albergues and refugio (hostels along the route) and to authenticate our progress with sellos stamps (like a passport stamps) at albergues, churches, town halls, and police stations along the way.
3. We researched and obtained guidebooks that explain the various routes, history, and provide maps of the Camino. We selected John Brierley’s A Pilgrim’s Guide to the Camino de Santiago, the Confraternity of Saint James’ The Camino Francés: St-Jean-Pied-de-Port to Santiago de Compostela, and CaminoGuide.net’sCamino Francés.We wanted some alternative views but plan to only bring one guide with us on the Camino. We have been reading blogs and forums about walking the Camino, we both greatly enjoyed and recommend http://www.girlsontheway.com/.
4. We selected the Camino Francés as our route (Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port, France to Santiago de Compostela, Spain across the entire Northern end of Spain), picked our departure date as the last week in August, and made hotel and train reservations for Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port where we will start the journey. We decided on a final night in a hotel to be well rested before our departure. The hotel is located near the Pilgrim’s Office so we can arrange our final details before leaving.
5. We have started a daily training regimen that includes walking the biggest hill nearby, the road to the medieval city of la Cité de Carcassonne. The training is also part of our process to “break in” our boots and get acclimatized to carrying backpacks, something I did all through my youth and young adulthood but an activity I haven’t done in more than a decade.
Tracy hiking the barbicane at la Cité de CarcassonneAlan hiking the bailey in la Cité de Carcassonne
6. We obtained a chest carrier for Kiara. Yes, Kiara the Chihuahua is traveling the Camino with us. We understand that many albergues do not allow dogs, but we intend to camp whenever that occurs. Kiara will do some daily walking, but most of her traveling will be as a passenger on her “beasts of burden” (the two of us) like the horseback pilgrims who also travel the Camino.
So our Camino preparations continue and we will post more updates as we go.
Tracy’s boot over the scallop shell sign marking the Camino
Franco-Canadian artist Marc Walter created five large sculptures in Carcassonne as part of the annual Festival de Carcassonne.
The first and largest is the “L’embrassade” (“The Hug”) sculpture located on the tip of l’île de la Cité Park and below the Pont Vieux (Old Bridge.) The sculpture is 7 meters tall and 9 meters wide. Marc Walter uses natural materials like wood, rock and earth to create his “Land Art” sculptures. For this project he used tree branches collected from Carcassonne’s public works after pruning the local trees. The sculpture is made by weaving the branches and securing with twine to created a large figure of a man with arms outstretched to the sky. A bright red heart can be seen inside the sculpture. The image is very reminiscent of an 3-D version of a Keith Haring painting.
Tracy and Kiara in front of Marc Walter’s “Land Art” Sculpture “L’embrassade” (“The Hug”)
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In Square Gambetta the artist created four additional sculptures. Standing five to six meters high, I thought these “Invités du Coeur” (“Guests of the Heart”) sculptures had a Native America feeling. The weaving of the branches creates a vision of Indian basket weaving and the silhouette reminds me of woman with a blanket draped over her shoulders. Again created using recycled tree branches and twine, the four figures allow you to step inside and experience the art from the interior. Each sculpture has a distinctly red heart like the “L’embrassade” sculpture, but these figures were somewhat more abstract in appearance. We watched the artist and volunteers from the community build the sculptures over the last six weeks. I spoke briefly with artist Marc Walter while he was working. He was very friendly, accessible, and happy to discuss his work. I was thankful because of Marc’s Canadian roots I was able to communicate in English. He works very hard to actively involved the entire local community in the work as a collective effort in the art. The completion of the project was marked with a picnic celebration with the community invited to attend.
Tracy with one of the “Invités du Coeur” (“Guests of the Heart”) Marc Walter sculptures in Square Gambetta
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In all, a remarkable exhibition of public art by artist Marc Walker using local recycled materials and involving community volunteers.
On May 30 through June 2, Cité de Carcassonne hosted Le 20e Festival Œnovidéo, véritable moment de rencontre internationale entre le monde du cinéma et du vin, vient de se clôturer (the 20th Annual Oenovideo International Grape and Wine Film Festival) and le 8e Torroirs d’Images Exposition Internationale de Photographies sur la Vigne et le Vin (the 8th Annual Terroirs d’Images Exhibition of Vine and Wine Photography.)
Oenovideo Film FestivalTerroirs d’Images Photo Exhibition
The Oenovidéo International Grape and Wine Film Festival featured 26 films from 14 countries competing for the title of best film on the vine and wine in 2013. The Terroirs d’Images Photo Exhibition hosted 105 photos from photographers from 14 countries on the theme “Enjoy and celebrate wines on five continents.
After going to the website I was able to request tickets to the film showings and to attend the photography exhibition. The event’s headquarter was at Hôtel de la Cité Carcassonne, a four star hotel located inside the medieval city and next to Basilique Saint-Nazaire-et-Saint-Celse de Carcassonne (the Basilica of St. Nazaire and St. Celse). The hotel has stunning private gardens where several events were held.
View from the garden in Hôtel de la Cité Carcassonne.
The garden in Hôtel de la Cité Carcassonne.
The garden in Hôtel de la Cité Carcassonne.
The garden in Hôtel de la Cité Carcassonne.
The garden in Hôtel de la Cité Carcassonne.
The films screened at the festival included several English language films including my favorite selection, “No Wine Left Behind,” a “kickstarter-funded” independent film which is described as, “When US Marine Sergeant Josh Laine returned from intense fighting in Iraq to his native Livermore, CA, he couldn’t find a job anywhere. When a girlfriend got him into wine, he decided to take a crack at winemaking and with the help of the other Marines that he served with, Lavish Laines Winery was born. The winery has since become a place where returning veterans can find a job, camaraderie, and a sense of purpose. The film follows Josh and his fellow vets as they try to take the winery from a garage start-up to a fully-fledged operation and in the process explores the challenges vets face in transitioning back to civilian life.”
Tracy and I really enjoyed the Terroirs d’Images Photo Exhibition. The gallery was set up inside leCité de Carcassonne’s Trésau Tower and the venue gave the photos a powerful setting. The images were suspended on thin wires to emphasize the photographer’s work. There was a “No Photos” inside the gallery rule, but I took one overall shot to give you an impression of the exhibition and the presentation of the art.
Photo gallery inside Trésau Tower.
Some of the photos were “blown-up” and displayed outside the gallery so I can share some of those below.
Tracy outside the exhibition with two photos displayed inside. Eighth Annual Terroirs d’Images International Photo Exposition.
We had a great time at the Cheval en Fête (Horse Festival) today. We watched more than 100 riders participate in the Equiaude Equestrian Parade. The cavaliers rode from the medieval citadel of la Cité de Carcassonne, down and across du Pont Vieux (the Old Bridge), around Square Gambetta, through the streets of Carcassonne, and ending at the Hippodrome de la Fajeolle.
Equiaude Equestrian Parade passing over the Pont Vieux (Old Bridge) with la Cité de Carcassonne in the background.
The participants ranged from mature to the very young. There appeared to be several riding schools with groups of young people in matching shirts singing together as they rode. Riders were using western saddles, dressage saddles, Australian saddles, and jumping saddles and there was a couple of horse-drawn carriages also participating. With the municipal police taking front and rear of the procession for safety, the parade passed through town with the children happily waving to spectators.
The parade is part of a two-day equestrian competition at Carcassonne’s hippodrome. The Equiaude Parade (Equi = equestrian, Aude = our department in France) is anticipated in Carcassonne like the annual Reno Rodeo Cattle Drive.
Equiaude Equestrian Parade
It was odd not to see iconic American Mustangs or Quarter Horses among the horses, but there were some beautiful Arabians and Thoroughbreds, with ponies and horse/mule hybrids for the children. While I’ve been in a saddle fewer times than I have fingers, Tracy is a former horsewoman who explained tack and horses breds as they passed.
The part we enjoyed the most was the smiles and laughter of all the young riders as they enjoyed being the center of the attention while waving to the spectators and singing in unison.
Carcassonne seems to have special events every week. This week was la Fête du Pain (the Bread Festival) sponsored by a local professional baking college, Saint Honoré Academy. (Saint Honoré is the patron saint of bakers.) All the events in Carcassonne reminds us of all the special event we used to experience in Reno, Nevada. French people really do take fresh baked bread seriously and we have found that in France, “Bread is king.”
The school set up both wood-fired and electric ovens in event tents on the perimeter of Square Gambetta We could smell freshly baked bread and hear the DJ’s music as we walked the block from our apartment to the Square. A dozen artisan bakers and apprentices were busy baking baguettes, breads, croissants, cakes, bread sculptures, and pies for exhibition and sale to the public. Many of the breads were created using the French twice-baked technique that makes that especially crusty bread that France is well-known for serving.
Fête du PainFête du PainFête du Pain – Baker working the wood fired oven
Tracy and I tried the pain au chocolat (chocolate croissant), a favorite of ours, and watched the bakers perform for the crowds. There was an area for children to decorate cookies and an inflatable “bounce house” with multiple food and craft vendors along the Square to visit as well.
We had a fun Christmas at home, the last we expect to have in the US for quite a while.
For Christmas brunch we had ravioli, tortellini, wine, Christmas ale, gifts, and fun conversation with the kids that are still in Reno – Sarah, Nick, Casey, Adam, and Adam’s fiancee’ Liz – made it a great day. Kiki the micro-dog enjoyed all the special attention. Through the day we also had “Merry Christmas” telephone calls with Danielle, Tyler, Dirk, and Dallas, the “out-of-town” kids. We have been enjoying the time with all the adult kids over the last few months and holidays, we know we are going to miss them all. After brunch with the kids we visited with more family at Tracy’s mom’s house. Nana, Tracy’s sisters Tammy and Trina, nieces, nephews, and even a great-niece. Once Tracy and I made it back home she finally got her wish for a “white Christmas.” Snow was finally falling in the valley and we had a romantic nighttime walk through the falling snow to finish Christmas night.
We just learned that we have an unexpected delay in our departure date moving it from January to late March. We have to resolve a couple of paperwork issues with the consulate. Rather that leaving the first week of January, we will be making a road trip to the consulate. We are now processing yet more paperwork and re-scheduling flight tickets and apartment reservations.
Oh well, if there is not a few “bumps in the road” you don’t appreciate the final outcome. We are a bit disappointed with the delay, but in the whole scheme of things an 11 week delay isn’t that big of an upset.
Tracy online rescheduling flights and apartment reservations.
Our last “in person” game between state rivals, University of Nevada, Reno and University of Nevada, Las Vegas, is soon approaching. This game and state rivalry has been an important event in our lives for the past 12 years. It’s right up there with Superbowl Sunday and the Academy Awards for our family.
When we married 12 years ago, we knew that it would be difficult for the children to spend holidays with more than one household a day. Children need to play and do not generally like to be opening gifts and eating and getting in the car to go to another household to open more gifts, eat again and get back in the car. We decided that holidays could be celebrated when we were together without disrupting the children, and then we thought it could be just as much fun to create special family days that were not traditional holidays.
So Superbowl Sunday became a family holiday, the kids would pick a team to support, so did we, food was laid out to be grazed upon during the day and lively shouting ensued. The Academy Awards were another family holiday. We printed up the categories, the nominees and everyone voted for who they thought would win and at the end of the night correct answers were added up and a winner named. These were the family days we most looked forward to, more than Christmas and Thanksgiving because these were our special times with our kids and we looked forward to them every year.
The UNR vs. UNLV game isn’t one where anyone picks a team to support. We are now and will forever be UNR fans. This isn’t just any state rivalry . . . we play for the largest trophy of any college team in the U.S., the Fremont Cannon, and it’s a very, very serious event. The winner of the game paints the cannon in their school colors and the cannon has been it’s rightful blue color for the past 7 years. UNR can lose every single game in a season and as long as they beat UNLV they remain champions to all their fans and supporters, and this family. This year, like all the others, we will scream, holler, kick the back of the bleachers and have the time of our lives and will love and support our Wolf Pack for another year . . . as long as they bring that cannon home to it’s rightful place.
We are making the arrangements, getting tickets, arranging a small bus and generally beginning to get pretty excited for game day at Sam Boyd Stadium in Las Vegas. This game will be bittersweet, but even that can be overcome as long as the cannon stays blue and comes home to Reno.
So say a prayer for our Pack on Saturday, October 13 for a hard fought victory . . . game starts at noon, prayers should start at approximately 11:45 am! Go Pack!
We attended our last Rib Cook-off today. This one like so many in the past was all about barbecue sauce and roasted ears of corn, looking for a place to sit and eat that may or may not have a little bit of shade or somewhere to set down your sampler tray. And this year, like every year in the past I’ve left the dental floss at home. But that negligent aspect aside, it is the smell and the taste of well done barbecue and sweet and tangy sauces that has kept us going back year after year after year.
The Rib Cook-off is but one of the many events hosted in the Reno-Sparks area that we will miss in the years to come, yet as any good organizer knows you cannot add something new without letting something go or you just end up with chaos.
Nick enjoying his roasted corn
So we said our farewell to the Rib Cook-off with a sampling of excellently cooked and basted pork ribs, roasted corn on the cob, Alan indulged in a bit of deep-fried peaches with whipped cream shared with our son Nick who came along to spend a couple of hours with us out in the smokey, barbecue-flavored haze that is Rib Cook-off.
The foodie in each of us is pleased and our inner organizers plan to substitute barbecued ribs for the annual horse race in Siena in 2013 to keep life balanced and free of chaos while accepting that we will do without the familiar and embrace the unknown as we prepare for a future abroad.
An Italian Point Of View 