In 2014, my Aunt Deb and I hiked from St. Jean Pied-de-Port to Los Arcos, caught a bus to Logrono and a train from Logrono to Sarria, then hiked the last 100 kilometers from Sarria to Santiago de Compostela. It rained a lot in 2014, but I finally had the opportunity to cross the Pyrenees (in 2013 we took the southern route through Valcarlos). What I really enjoyed though was spending the two weeks with Deb. She’s one of my personal role models and a woman I respect very much. She loves the outdoors and I enjoyed every mile we hiked together. She has a fantastic sense of humor, is quick to laugh, shares my love of occasional junk food binges, can hike 20 kilometers a day for weeks without seeming tired, and doesn’t mind getting up early. It was a fantastic journey and I’m so glad that she shared it with me.
But as Alan and I were discussing vacation options (such as Marrakech, a cruise from Venice to Greece, etc.) the husband mentioned that he was a little jealous of my trek in 2014 with my aunt. So I suggested that we do it again, the whole 800 kilometers. We figure that cruise lines will always be headed to Greece, that Marrakech will always be a short flight from France, but the ability and desire to hike 800 kilometers across Spain may wane over time. So we’re gearing up and going again in September/October 2015.
We’ve compiled a new equipment list based on our experiences in 2013 (see 2013 Equipment Review) hoping to learn from our first trek and make changes according to our own reviews of the equipment we chose for 2013. Our idea of “wear one, wash one” worked very well for the entire six weeks and we plan to stay with that idea except for socks. As we mentioned again and again in 2013, foot care is the most important issue on the Camino. Dry socks = happy feet. So we’ll bring extras!:)
After visiting Les Orgues in the morning, Monday, July 20, we headed back to town to see the beautiful church, St. Etienne, that we had noticed while hiking the 4 km out to Les Orgues and back into Ille-sur-Têt.
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The current building circa 18th century expanded and remodeled an earlier 12th century church.
St. Etienne (St. Stephen in English; St. Eteven led Pedrequet in Catalan)
The first written mention of this pre-Romanesque church dates to the 10th century in 982 as a donation to the Abbey Cuixà. In 1016, a document refers to “the old church” while referencing the, then current, construction (one of many expansions throughout the centuries). To understand the size and shape of the earlier 12th century church you have to imagine it oriented east to west in the nave of the current building (from right to left). The building itself was at one time part of the wall surrounding the city (parts of which are still visible) and near the castle (which no longer exists).
The current interior of St. Etienne. The original church would have been where the area where the pews now sit. The large organ is visible to the right above the arched side entrance (most likely the original entrance to the earlier church).Remnants of the original ramparts
The bell tower was added sometime during the 1400s. The current tower was inaugurated in 1875, it’s most recent reconstruction. Originally, it had a defensive role as much as a religious one. It was used as a dungeon, a records room, a reliquary and treasure room. The bells in the upper part of the tower are truly remarkable. There is a carillon of 16 bells each an octave and a half apart. The largest and oldest is the F sharp major, cast in 1757. Another dates to 1766. The operators climbed 116 steps to use levers and pedals to operate the bells. In September 1933 an electric carillon keyboard was added and the bell ringers became a distant memory.
The bell tower housing all 16 bells of St. Etienne.
Excavation for a well some 50+ years ago revealed headstones nearly 30 meters underground from the graveyard that once laid beside the church. A more recent excavation near the current entrance revealed bones from one of the original graves.
The upper section of the main facade of St. Etienne in Ille-sur-Têt.The large entry doors of the main facade.
Just a few blocks away was the Hospice d’Illa, a complex of several buildings that date to the 12th century.
The original gated entrance to the chapel and hospice with St. James watching from above. The building on the left houses the small chapels, the building on the right a team of is currently being used by a team of restoration experts.
Hospice d’Ille-sur-Têt (Hospice d’Illa in Catalan)
Part of the Camino de Santiago, hospices like this offered refuge to those making the pilgrimage across Spain to the final resting place of St. James in Santiago de Compostela. There has been a large network of hospices operated by the Catholic Church, and her followers such as the Knights Templar and Knights of Malta, and other volunteers, throughout Europe for centuries. The Hospice d’Illa, though not the oldest of those still in existence, dates to the 12th century.
The complex of buildings at Hospice d’Illa include: the Hospice Saint-Jacques (St. James), which dates to the 12th century (the current building was remodeled in the 14th century); the Romanesque church Nostra Senyora de Rodona, 12th century; funeral galleries; and medieval ramparts which date to the 16th century. The church and funeral galleries of the cemetery were the privileged place of burial for the Illois (what the people of Ille-sur-Têt call themselves).
Side entrance of the original hospice.Arches near the ramparts on the hospice grounds may have been part of the funeral gallery; though the cemetery no longer exists.
The Hospice continued to serve as a community hospital until 1981. Unfortunately it was not open for our tour. Current restorations are in the works making the area off-limits. The building to the right of the gated entrance has been tuned into a workspace for a team of experts handling the art restoration for the hospice and church. A display in the reception area of antique restoration tools showed that restoration efforts have been ongoing for quite a long time.
Display of antique restoration tools in the reception area.
The ramparts, which are integrated with the church’s North and East walls, were part of the city’s fortification system (a section of which is visible near the current parking lot along the east side of the church). The closest access for the hospice and church were through the fortified gate of Parayre (which still exists and is still used as a main street for that section of town).
Ramparts of the original city defense system which incorporated the East wall of the Hospice.Signage for the Hospice near the rampart tower, it hangs above and slightly to the left of the Parayre Gate..The Parayre Gate which allowed entrance into the city near the Hospice, taken from inside the ramparts.
The church consists of a single nave, typical of early churches of that era, with an incredibly high ceiling and a small sacristy off to the right. We did not see any of the grave markers inside the church, but most of it was covered with carpet for the museum display. There were eight small chapels on the ground floor opposite the main entrance to the nave and connected through a small hallway with St. James painted above the doorway (found during restoration efforts). Eight additional chapels on the floor above are accessed by a small tight staircase. The small chapels were dedicated to the many worker guilds of the city. Above each of the chapels are Roman numerals which were also found during current restoration work.
St. James painted above the small hallway between the main nave of the church and the ground floor chapels.Staircase with handcrafted metal railing.
These days the church is a museum, the sacristy (to the right of the altar) holds remnants of Romanesque frescoes discovered during restoration. The nave has holds a variety of pieces found over the years, sections of stone columns, a model of the original church, and some large information pieces – in French, of course! The chapels on the upper floor have a permanent collection of artifacts from both the Hospice d’Illa and St. Etienne’s. The chapels on the ground floor have a rotating exhibit. Currently it is an exhibit of Romanesque and Baroque art from around the region.
The interior of Nostra Senyora de Rodona housing a small museum.One of several Romanesque frescoes found during restoration.
The altar is still in place and was specifically crafted for the church by guilds operating within the city. It is a beautiful white marble carved with birds. I didn’t recognize which type of bird, they look a little bit like Cormorants to me but are most likely something indigenous to the area. The large altarpiece has three alcoves that are now devoid of the wood statues they once held — though some are now on display in the permanent gallery. (*We did notice that at some point in recent history that someone had added carnival lights around each of the alcoves, many of the small bulbs were still in their sockets.)
The altarpiece of Nostra Senyora de Rodona.Altar detail.
It still amazes both of us that before we moved to France we had never heard of the Camino de Santiago, well just a short sound-bite on an episode of Rick Steve’s Europe. Literally a 5 second blip. Yet now that we have traveled a bit of the Camino ourselves, we find we are surrounded by the richness of this 1000 year old tradition. Kind of like when you buy a new car and then notice them everywhere you go.
We find references everywhere. The hospice in Ille-sur-Têt is one, the pilgrim hospital and small chapel in Carcassonne that was just at the end of our street another. We find that way markers that pop up all over, signs along the highway that denote it follows the Camino de Santiago in a particular section, and recently a brochure which explained the route from Montpellier to Perpignan and included the albergues available between the two locations. The other day we saw a museum display of old horseshoes and spurs from a fort we were visiting (Fortress le Salses). The spurs had a scallop shell design, the symbol of St. James and the Camino de Santiago. So if you’re ever visiting Europe and run into a scallop shell design, you’ve found a piece of the Camino. Send us a photo!
As we prepare for our next Camino, we are in awe that it has become such a huge part of our life here in France. We are elated when we notice that there are trails near or in the places we live, and are constantly amazed that this millennia old pilgrimage still has a huge following. We’ve even been discussing doing the shorter Portuguese route next year and taking Sami along with us. Though we would have to stay in hotels because the albergues do not allow dogs. She’s SO spoiled!
Our original equipment lists updated with our after Camino review (in red). Suffice it to say that we did a fair amount of research in the beginning and were, for the most part, pleased with our choices.
If you would like to read more about our Camino experiences, see our Camino de Santiago page.
ALAN’S EQUIPMENT LIST
Clothing from the ground up:
–Lightweight boots|Quechua Chaussures Randonnée Homme Forclaz 500. There are a lot of advocates for using running shoes and trail running shoes on the Camino on the Camino Forums, but since I’ve sprained my ankles numerous times, I wanted the ankle support of a boot. These are waterproof, breathable, and about 2.23 pounds (1000 grams.) We purchased boots early to thoroughly break the boots in before we arrive in Saint Jean-Pied-de-Port to start our Camino. From Decathlon.
For fairly inexpensive boots, these worked wonderfully. Often I resented having to take my boots off in an albergue because I really appreciated the support. I did go through two pairs of bootlaces and would carry extras in the future.
Chaussette Forclaz 500 High Quechua (From Decathlon Catalog)
–Socks| Four pairs, Quechua Chaussette Forclaz 500 High. I was very skeptical of “High Tech” socks, but I wanted fast drying and moisture wicking socks and figured “It can’t hurt.” This trip is “all about taking care of your feet.” I’m planning to use the “Wear one, Wash one” method to keep weight and bulk down (with second pair if I need a mid-day sock change – “Wear two, Wash two”) From Decathlon.
Great call with the “high tech” socks. They were comfortable and wicked moisture well. They dried after washing quickly. The only problem I had was losing two of my four pairs when Tracy’s phone was stolen. By the end of the Camino the remaining socks were starting to wear through with holes.
–Underwear| Synthetic fabric, fast drying and moisture wicking. From Decathlon
The quick dying underwear were a good call. Three pairs allowed me to always have clean underwear throughout the Camino.
Quechua Forclaz 100 Modul Pants
–Pants| Two pairs, Quechua Forclaz 100 Modul Pants (“Wear one, Wash one.”) These are extremely lightweight synthetic fabric pants that are abrasion and tear resistant with water and stain resistance. The pants allow an options to convert them into shorts by “zipping” off the legs (although I’m not really a “shorts” kind of guy.) I wanted fast drying pants that would be comfortable in the heat. Originally I was going wear the Blackhawk Tactical-NonTactical (TNT) pants that I had brought from the States. They are designed for military/law enforcement contractors serving in the Middle East. However, I have lost a fair amount of weight since moving to France and Tracy was concerned that the already loose pants wouldn’t fit at all by the end of the Camino. From Decathlon.
The pants worked perfectly, they were comfortable and fast drying either after washing or from the rain. The front zip pocket allowed me to always have my wallet with me. While I never did shorts, the “zip-off” legs allowed me the wash them separately. The only thing I might do differently was wear one pair and have a pair of shorts for the albergue.
F.11 TDU Belt (5.11 Tactical Catalog)
–Belt| 5.11 Tactical TDU nylon webbing belt – 1 1/2″ with Plastic Buckle. Simple, lightweight, flat profile under my backpack’s waist belt. Unlike a leather belt, this belt is fast drying if it gets wet. From LA Police Gear.
Perfect: lightweight, functional, fast drying.
Quechua T-shirt TechFRESH 100 (Decathlon Catalog)
–Shirts| Two short sleeve, one long sleeve, Quechua T-shirt TechFRESH 100. Lightweight, fast drying, and wicking t-shirts. “Wear one, Wash one” with an optional long sleeve shirt for sun or insect protection and greater warmth. From Decathlon.
Worked very well. The shirts were comfortable and breathe well. The shirts dried very quickly. The long sleeve shirt often served as an impromptu “sweater” layered over a short sleeve shirt.
–Bandanas| Two bandanas, mainly intended to protect my neck on sunny days because all my shirts are all collar-less.
I wore one bandana to protect my neck from the sun. Although 100% cotton it was always dry by the next morning. I only needed one bandana.
Jacket Forclaz 700 Quechua (Decathlon Catalog)
–Rain shell/Jacket with removable liner: Quechua Veste Forclaz 700. “Three in one” jacket: waterproof, breathable and ventilated. Has a removable quilted inner jacket. My intention is to use this jacket as wind shell, raincoat with hood, and jacket in one item. My backpack has a rain cover so I can avoid a flopping poncho to cover my pack. Since we are starting at the end of August, I elected to leave the quilted liner at home. If needed, I plan pick up a fleece jacket in Galicia when we approach the coast at the start of October rather than possibly carry the jacket liner for weeks without using it. We will see if that’s turns out to be a good decision. I also decided not to carry rain pants. From Decathlon.
I liked the jacket, but under the backpack’s straps it retained a lot of heat. From watching other pilgrim’s I know I would not have liked a poncho flapping in the wind. I never felt I needed rain pants, and the jacket – without its liner – was plenty warm the few times I needed a jacket. I did like the feel and flexibility of Tracy’s jacket more, mine was noticeably stiffer. I never used the hood, using my hat to ward off the rain.
Alan wearing Tilley T5MO Hat
–Hat| Tilley T5MO Organic Cotton AIRFLO Hat. I like a hat with a brim that can serve as a sun hat and can also double as a rain hat. The hat is rated at UPF 50+ for sun protection and is water-resistant. I’ve had great luck with Canadian-made Tilley hats in the past. Tilley hats are well made and they are nearly indestructible. I had to special order out of the UK to get the model I wanted because the choices in sun hats at Decathlon was so mediocre. From Village Hats.
Loved my hat. I wore it everyday. It was great in the sun, great in the rain. I was perfect for my needs. So glad I went with the Tilley instead of those terrible floppy hats at Decathlon or a baseball cap.
On Person:
Ray-Ban Wayfarer, Seiko Black Monster, Hazard 4 Case
–Sunglasses| Ray-Ban Original Wayfarer sunglasses with prescription, polarized lenses with Chums glasses strap and a Hazard 4 Sub-Pod hard case. I trade out my regular prescription eyeglasses with the sunglasses as the conditions warrants.
I wore my sunglasses nearly every day. I think the dark polarized lenses were a great call with so much time outdoors. The hard case was useful and I never worried about my glasses getting crushed in my pack.
–Watch| Seiko “Black Monster” Automatic Watch. Waterproof, self-winding with no battery, day and date indicator.
I constantly used my watch. There would be church services, restaurant openings, and other times where having the watch was needed. The “glow in the dark” function was important for the albergue – no watch light required. The day-date function was helpful as it’s easy to lose track of time in the low-tech world of the Camino.
Black Diamond 2012 Syncline Trekking Poles
–Trekking Poles| Pair, Black Diamond 2012 Syncline Trekking Poles with Quechua Nordic Hiking tips. With being 6’04” I liked that the poles adjust up to 57″ (145 cm) for long downhill stretches of trail. I will also carry Quechua Nordic tips to have the option to cover the tips in places where the tip could damage the floor. The pair weighs 1 lb 4 oz (580 g) with a collapsed length of a longish 38 in ( 96.5 cm.) (Tracy’s trekking poles are “three-part” and collapse to a much more compact length.) I’ve used a hiking stick in my youth, but trekking poles will be a new experience for me. Experts say you can shift up to 25% of your weight to the poles, there’s that and the fact I’m just clumsy. The poles may prevent a fall and injury too. From Decathlon.
I never used trekking poles previously, but I am now the biggest fan. I can’t guess how many time the poles saved me from a fall. I do believe there is that weight transfer of the pack to the poles. The trekking poles were an absolute must. The only thing I would have done differently is get a 3-section rather than 2-section set of poles that would collapse into a smaller package.
Backpack:
Backpack Forclaz 40 Air Quechua (Decathlon Catalog)
–Backpack|Quechua ac à Dos Forclaz 40 Air. We wanted to travel as light as possible and wanted smaller backpack to enforce the limits of what we could carry with us. However, with being 6’04” I wanted a bag with sufficient length to let me use the hip belt to help carry some of the weight. With the 40 Air I believe I achieved those goals with having 41 litres of capacity, 3.5 pounds (1550 grams) total weight, with length adjustable shoulder straps. The “Air” in the description is the mesh back to allow extra air flow and cooling. A rain cover is supplied to keep the bag’s contents dry. From Decathlon.
This pack was perfect for me. The absolute right size, comfortable, I liked the “dry cool” webbing in the back, it was lightweight and everything stayed dry. I am so glad I didn’t have an older (and heavier) pack available so that had to buy one of the new high-tech packs. For comfort and fit the high-tech packs are the way to go.
Quechua Sac de Couchage Rando 15°C Light XL
–Sleeping Bag|Quechua Sac de Couchage Rando 15°C Light XL. There is tons of debate in online Camino forums as to whether to bring a sleeping bag, or just a sleeping bag liner, or simply use blankets provided at the albergues. Tracy and I selected light sleeping bags with matching left and right zippers that allows us to zip the bags together or use separately. The lightweight sleeping bags have a 60 degree F. (15 degree C) comfort rating and weigh about 1.7 pounds (760 grams) each. From Decathlon.
Perfect for the trip. While Tracy would have been happy with a sleeping bag liner, this was just warm enough for me on cool night and I slept on the top on warm nights.
Quechua Sandale Arpenaz 50 (Decathlon Catalog)
–Sandals|Quechua Sandale Arpenaz 50. After the day’s hike I wanted a lightweight option to allow me to get out of my boots. These 1.3 pound (600 gram) sandals should offer a needed relief for my feet at the end of the hiking day. I could have gone lighter with simple “flip-flops,” but I liked that there is some arch support in the sandals. From Decathlon.
This was my BIGGEST mistake, I originally wanted some Teva-type hiking scandals which weren’t immediately available here. I bought this inexpensive pair of sandals for around the albergue. Never should have done that. At the end of the day I looked forward to taking my boots off, but these sandals were so lacking in arch support that my boots were more comfortable. We also didn’t realize how much walking (sightseeing, restaurants, shopping) would happen at the end of the day. In hindsight I would have special ordered some sport sandals with substantial arch support or even carried the extra weight of athletic shoes.
Camera, iPhone, batteries, and chargers
–Camera| Olympus TG-820 Tough 12 MP Digital Camera , 5x Wide Optical Zoom, with extra battery and charger. Ask anyone, I am a huge camera and photography guy, however I am embracing the fact I need to minimize weight and that I am performing a spiritual pilgrimage. I am reverting to the basics of my earlier years of shooting a film camera and planning to carefully select meaningful images rather than shooting absolutely everything. The DSLR camera is staying home this trip and I am using “rangefinder-style” camera techniques.
Great camera, but 90% of my photos were taken with the iPhone. It was just faster and easier and I could upload photos to FaceBook. In hindsight I wonder if I would bring it again.
–iPhone and charger| I do not have a phone or data plan for Spain, but I intend to use the iPhone as a “palm top computer” when free Wi-Fi in available to check e-mail, post our progress and photos online.
This was a surprise, we carried the phones as a last minute addition and then used the phones as camera and wi-fi “mini tablet” to update on FaceBook and post photos. We had access to wi-fi every night but two. I think if I had known I would have brought an iPad mini and live blogged our progress on the Camino.
Guidebooks and Streamlight Stylus Pro LED Flashlight
–Flashlight| Streamlight Stylus Pro LED Flashlight. A 5.3″ x .6″ (134 x 15 mm) mini flashlight weighting 1.64 oz (46.9 g) with 48 lumens output and 6.25 hours runtime powered by two “AAA” alkaline batteries. Most people in the Camino forum say that a flashlight is not necessary, but I wanted a light in the event of a long hiking day. From LA Police Gear
Useful the few times we needed it (we were not part of the “up at 4:30 am stumbling through the albergue waking everyone up with their headlamps” pilgrims.) For the few instances it was worthwhile, but if we had no flashlight we would not have suffered.
–Guidebooks| A Pilgrim’s Guide To The Camino de Santiago, St. Jean – Roncesvalles – Santiago and A Pilgrim’s Guide to the Camino Finisterre, Santiago – Finisterre – Muxia by John Brierley. Very comprehensive English language guide with directions, maps, history, advice, and even spiritual insights. A marked difference from the amateurish and embarrassingly poorly edited Confraternity of Saint James’ Pilgrim Guide to Spain – 1 Camino France’ 2013 and the amateurish, poorly illustrated, and outdated Confraternity of Saint James’ Pilgrim Guides to Spain 3 Finisterre 2009. There is also discussions in the Camino Forum about whether or not a guidebook is even needed on the well-marked Camiño Francés trails. That’s a reasonable consideration since these two guidebooks weight about one pound total. There is a wonderfully concise Camino France’ “.pdf” guide you can download at http://www.caminoguide.net/ to save weight and space over carrying a guidebook.
We actually met people without guidebooks, apparently it was to either save weight or “we were told we wouldn’t need one.” Those people were always at a disadvantage to planning their nest day’s route and several pilgrims mistakenly took a wrong branch of the trail or didn’t know where next albergue might be. A good guidebook is essential.
Klean Kateen
–Water bottle| A single Klean Kanteen 27 ounce (800 ml) capacity stainless steel water bottle. Empty weight of the bottles is 8 ounces (227 grams.) The filled bottle weighs 35 ounces – 1027 grams. Many people in the discussion forums advocate just buying commercially available bottled water and refilling those thin bottles or using a bladder system like a CamelBak or Platypus saving at more than half the weight of the metal bottles.
This worked well for me. There were I few long stretches of trails without fonts and I supplemented with buying a bottle of water and reusing the bottle for those instances.
-Knife and small cutting board | I have a small knife with a small, thin cutting board that will double as a shared plate for Tracy and I for picnic lunches of sausage, salami, cheese, bread, and fruit.
This was a surprisingly good idea that made picnic lunches much easier.
Personal Items:
Passport, Camino credencial, cash, credit cards
–Passport, Camino credencial, cash, credit cards
It was easy to purchase a Camino credential in Saint Jean Peid-de-Port, so pre-purchasing a credential isn’t necessary. My non-“Chip and Pin” ATM card and American Express card worked well on the trip.
All essentials, and we were able to replace items easily to get along the way.
Lush Shampoo Bar
–Shampoo, soap| Lush brand “Squeaky Green” shampoo bar and carrier tin. I’m using the shampoo bar as both shampoo and body wash. From Lush Comestics, UK. The idea of a shampoo bar came from YouTube blogger Lindsey Cowie at http://www.youtube.com/user/bathedinridicule.
Great idea, didn’t work. The bar dissolves four times faster than advertised. I ended up using a combination shampoo/body wash purchased in an albergue. I’d skip the shampoo bar in the future.
–Sun block
Important to have, I used it nearly everyday. No sunburns.
–First aid kit with blister treatments, antiseptic, anti-diarrhea, pain pills, and lip balm
Compeed blister bandages are amazing and a MUST carry. The pain killers were very much appreciated. We never had call to use the anti-diarrhea meds.
–Safety pins | For use as safety pins, for popping blisters, and serving as clothes pins.
Great tools, I should have carried at least a dozen with a dozen “baby diaper” sized.
–Toilet Paper
This was a good call. Amazing how often an albergue’s rest room would run out, especially the women’s restrooms.
–Hair brush
Moleskine Reporter Notebook (Moleskine Catalog)
–Moleskine ruled reporter’s notebook and two pens. | 3.5″ x 5.5″ (9 x 14 cm). I have never done real well with daily journaling, but I wanted to try to take comprehensive notes so I can write detailed posts of our experiences on the trail after we return.
Perfect for notes. Glad I brought two pens since I lost one along the way.
Serviette randonnée Quechua
–Travel towel|Quechua Serviette randonnée. Compact 50″ x 16.5″ (120 cm x 42 cm) 3.7 ounce (106 grams) fast drying, microfiber towel. From Decathlon
Loved this towel, very compact and absorbent, and always dry by the morning. I wish I had clothes made out of this material. Absolutely amazing.
Additional items not previously mentioned
Laundry Soap Sheet– We stumbled into these at the grocery store in Carcassonne, sheets of laundry soap that were lightweight and stored easily in my backpack, they worked well and dissolved instantly.
Organization Cubes- Tracy used our old travel organization cubes from eBags.com – nylon mesh bags to contain our gear in an organized way. It made life so much easier – in a crowded dimly light albergue dormitory to have “everything has a place and everything in it’s place” so you never forgot anything. I only lost two spares of socks, but we were rushed and couldn’t follow our routine that morning because Tracy’s phone was stolen and we needed to get to an wifi zone to change passwords for important accounts.
Alan’s backpack at departure weighed in at 20.5 pounds (9.3 kilograms)
Thank goodness for a lightweight pack. It is totally different carrying a backpack – day in, day out/ week after week – If I had to do it over, I would leave one pair of pants here and get sport sandals with good arch support. My top 5 favorite items were 1.) my Tilley Hat, 2.) my trekking poles, 3.) my sunglasses, 4.) my iPhone camera, and 5.) travel towel (Thank you Douglas Adam, you are right!)
TRACY’S EQUIPMENT LIST
CLOTHING
Forclaz 500 Novadry – Brown Hiking Boot by Quechua
Shoes| Forclaz 500 Novadry – Brown Hiking Boot by Quechua
“For regular use while hiking in all-weather on trails with moderate gradients. Waterproof and breathable. Featuring numerous reinforced areas and a two-hook fastening system.” I wanted a boot rather than a trail shoe. Not knowing which conditions we’ll be facing in September and October, an all-weather boot made sense and I tend to twist ankles and knees so having additional support was also important. These boots are lightweight (they weigh less than my walking shoes). We bought them about 10 weeks before we were planning to leave on our Camino and have had plenty of time to break them in. I even really liked the color.
These boots were amazing, my feet stayed dry through all kinds of weather. I added some Dr. Scholl’s inserts for heel comfort before we left and for most days it really helped. However, in the beginning of our trek or any day after about 20 kilometers my feet didn’t hold up as well as the shoes.
Forclaz 300 Men’s hiking jacket, Blue/Red by Quechua
Jacket | Forclaz 300 Men’s hiking jacket, Blue/Red by Quechua
I selected a men’s hiking jacket since the women’s jackets didn’t meet the same specs for rain and ventilation. These jackets are designed for long hikes and can withstand a great deal of rain. It’s also breathable and ventilated.
Although I thankfully didn’t need it often, this jacket was perfect for the two days we had a slight drizzle and the one day we had a downpour for about 25 minutes. I stayed dry and comfortable and the jacket was lightweight and easily rolled up to store in the backpack.
TMH5 Mash-Up Hat by Tilley
Hat | TMH5 Mash-Up Hat by Tilley
“This hat is made using recycled yarns from hemp and organic cotton fabrics, each hat has an array of different colors woven into it making each unique. Designed with a medium brim with ¾” ventilation mesh around the crown.” Alan has always liked the Tilley brand hats and I thought that I would like to have something to help block the sun that would be comfortable for all-day wear. We found this one on the US site, but it wasn’t available on the UK site, thankfully a very nice lady at the Tilley UK online store was able to ship one from Canada, then sell it to us after she received it. We were able to avoid a 30% duty tax and I now have my first Tilley hat that isn’t that god-awful greenish-tan color but a beautiful soft grey. I added a black and white polka dot scarf as a hat band so that it doesn’t look like a men’s hat and that I can easily remove to cover my shoulders if we are entering a church.
I can’t say enough about my Tilley hat. I absolutely love the thing. I wore it in rain and sun and it was perfect. I had ordered it slightly larger than suggested so that I could wear my hair up or down. The head straps even made it easy to clip to the backpack when I wasn’t wearing it!
Organic Cotton Capri by Domyos
Pants | Organic Cotton Capri by Domyos and McKinley convertible pants.
These yoga/pilates capri pants are comfortable, moisture-wicking and breathable. They are also soft, comfy and relatively quick-drying. I can use them as a pajama as well.
While these were comfortable, I ended up only using them as sleep wear, but a light weight, fast dry pair of shorts/capri would have been easier. Cotton just doesn’t line-dry as fast as other fabrics.
Convertible Hiking Pant by McKinley
The McKinley hiking pant converts to a short with zip off legs and is lightweight and fast drying. Since we’re looking at a wear-one, wash-one approach, I like the idea of having two pair of pants that have a range of usefulness – shorts, capris, long pants – this should be enough for both hot and cold days.
The McKinley hiking pant was the one I wore all day, every day. Easy to convert to shorts, lightweight and super, fast drying so cleaning them each day was quick and easy. But I need a new pair — after six weeks on the Camino this year, they don’t fit anymore!
Forclaz 500 High Socks, Hiking Socks, Light Grey/Green by Quechua
Socks | Forclaz 500 High Socks, Hiking Socks, Light Grey/Green by Quechua
While I’ve never really paid much attention to socks, we’ve purchased and have been using these socks for our Camino training. They cost a bit more than I have EVER paid for a couple of pairs of socks, but they are exactly what they claim to be: Lightweight – perfect for summer hikes, Blister Reducing – I have yet to get a blister while wearing them and Breathable – my feet still get warm after 5 miles of hiking, but not nearly as bad as the socks I used before we bought these. I am curious to find out how they handle the Camino. Oddly enough the knitting is different in each part of the sock and each colored area is knitted in a different pattern so that they stay put, move well and have extra padding for the sides of the toes and the heel.
These ended up to be one of my favorite items. I did blister, but only one toe and that had more to do with my foot structure rather than anything else. I even liked wearing a pair to bed as the ribbed arch support massaged them a bit while I was sleeping.
Tops | Assorted
I haven’t really found a particularly great hiking top for women. The men’s shirts have too high of a collar and I have issues with things being around my neck. For comfort and quick dry capability, I selected a couple of tops from the yoga section of Decathlon. Both are by Domyos and are lightweight and moisture wicking. I plan to bring a third top, small strap with shelf bra for sleeping in.
While I hadn’t found any hiking tops and brought yoga wear, my only regret is not looking harder for hiking tops for their fast-dry ability. One of the tops was a cotton-blend and it never really did dry completely unless we were able to find an electric dryer — which wasn’t often, we line-dried things most of the time.
Flipflops | generic style from the grocery store
I wanted something to wear after hiking all day. These are lightweight, fast drying and can be used as a shower shoe if necessary.
These were my biggest mistake, they lasted about two weeks and fell apart, but I hadn’t considered what my feet would feel like after hiking 20 kilometers on variable terrain. I was able to find a nice pair of Teva-like sandals with great arch support and used those for the remainder of the trip. Good footwear is very, very important, especially in the evenings after hiking 15 to 30 kilometers. Shoes without arch support make it harder to keep moving day after day and I believe that my poor choice in footwear contributed to my tired and sore feet for the first two weeks.
HIKING GEAR
Forclaz 30 Air Hiking Backpack, Green by Quechua
Backpack | Forclaz 30 Air Hiking Backpack, Green by Quechua
“For mountain and day hiking in all-weather (hot, rainy, etc.). Weight is distributed between the shoulder straps and belt. A well ventilated back (air cooling label), practical storage (with belt, water bladder and mesh pockets) and rain cover make this a complete hiking backpack. 30 liter volume / weight: 2.3 pounds / full pack dimensions: H 52cm x W 35cm x D 27cm. Load adjuster straps and chest strap. Pockets: 1 inner, 2 outer + mesh pockets, 1 on the belt and pole-carrier.”
After trying on several different sizes and styles, this one fit me the best and didn’t interfere with freedom of movement. We’ve done quite a few training hikes and although I’m still a bit concerned about weight, this pack is extremely comfortable and the ventilated back is very nice. I like the color too.
This backpack performed perfectly. I love it! I was able to carry everything I needed and still kept cool due to the circulation system. The fit was perfect for my frame and it’s smaller size made minimizing a must which kept the weight from being more than I could comfortably carry. The addition of our organizing cubes (purchased years ago from eBags.com) helped to keep the pack weighted perfectly as well.
Forclaz 500 Light Soft Blue/White by Quechua
Hiking Poles | Forclaz 500 Light Soft Blue/White by Quechua
“Three section pole with a collapsed length of 58cm, maximum extended length of 129 cm. Weight: 230 grams. Foam grip. Lined neoprene adjustable loop. Tungsten carbide tips with summer and winter baskets. I opted for two as I have done little long distance hiking and most of the Camino blogs recommend two if you’re bringing them. I started practicing with them during our Camino training hikes about three weeks prior to departure. The poles have helped with a knee that is still sore from a fall a couple of months ago so I’m assuming that they will be a welcome addition on the trip.
I had some reservations about how much I really needed hiking poles and I almost didn’t bother to purchase them for our trip. That would have been the biggest mistake ever. These ended up to be the MOST IMPORTANT item I brought. They alleviate about 25% of the pack weight, keep your hands from getting too swollen and helped to keep three points of contact with Mother Earth for climbing up and down some pretty amazing hills and mountains. The only time that they were stashed in my pack was when we were on the train to and from home. A total lifesaver! The only thing I would do differently is opt for the slightly more expensive version with the cork grips, some days my hands got very sweaty in the heat and keeping my grip if I were to stumble was a worry.
Compact Hiking Towel, Green by Quechua
Towel | Compact Hiking Towel, Green by Quechua
While just about any towel would do, this one is a lightweight microfiber that is only 42cm wide and 120cm long and weighs only 106 grams. It even came in it’s own stuff bag making it very easy to pack and carry.
At just 42cm wide and 120cm long it was just enough to get dried off with, but I couldn’t wrap my hair up with it. The best feature was that it would dry in less than an hour even when soaking wet. I might opt for a slightly larger one in the future, but only because I have long hair and it was difficult to wrap it in the towel while dressing.
15° Light Hiking Sleeping Bag, Blue by Quechua
Sleeping bag | 15° Light Hiking Sleeping Bag, Blue by Quechua
We opted for a lightweight bag with a right and left zip option. This particular one has a stuff bag that makes it very compact and storable in your pack. Since Kiara will be coming with us we plan to be camping more than most pilgrims since most albergues do not accept dogs in the hostel. Not really knowing what weather we may be facing over nearly 7 weeks of hiking we decided to get one that was not only light to carry but would keep us warm on a chilly night. My favorite thing about this sleeping bag is that it doesn’t have to be rolled up!!
We opted for a lightweight bag with a right and left zip option. However, we rarely got to see each other at night since we were often in bunk beds, Alan on top, me on bottom — I’m afraid of heights! Most often I only used mine as a blanket if I got cold, which wasn’t often. I think I may have done just as well with a sleeping bag liner, which is even lighter weight and should be perfect for the hot Spanish summer.
Forclaz 2L Water Bladder by Quechua
Water Bladder | Forclaz 2L Water Bladder by Quechua
Normally I would prefer my regular water bottle with the dual lined walls that keeps water cold for 30 hours in a hot car, but I opted to try a two-liter water bladder since I’m carrying water for both longer distances and for Kiara as well. I don’t have a lot of experience using a bladder but so far it’s been working for our training hikes and once I cleaned it up with some baking soda and fresh lemon juice the water tastes wonderful if just a bit warmer than I prefer, better than the plastic taste it had at first. This will be the heaviest thing in my pack, but when we know for sure that there are fountains on the trail I can carry less and of course it lightens the load as you use it.
It took a while to get used to the bladder, but I really loved having instant and easy access to water. This one held 2 liters and easily slipped into the front pocket of my backpack so that nothing inside the pack got wet.
HYGIENE
Lush Shampoo Bar
Shampoo bar | Irresistible Bliss byLush
“A dynamic pink shampoo bar for normal hair. To keep hair looking shiny and full of body, wash with this irresistible bar. The perfume is made with neroli (orange blossom) and jasmine to scent it with incredibly sensual florals throughout the day.” Not that I need to smell good, but I like the idea of a shampoo bar so that I’m not carrying liquids that could get messy in my pack. I have a mini microfiber towel for bathing and storing the shampoo bar, less mess, less weight.
Although Alan didn’t care for this product, I think that it actually worked great, it just didn’t last as long as I had expected. I would recommend buying twice what you think you’ll need and a container to keep it dry.
Silk Hydration Lotion Sunscreen by Hawaiian Tropic
Sunblock| Silk Hydration Lotion Sunscreen by Hawaiian Tropic
I started out with a bottle of Loreal but it had glitter in it. I’d rather smell like a coconut than sparkle all day. This has an SPF of 30, which is what my everyday makeup has, so it should do the trick.
This was my lifesaver! I had never experienced a Spanish summer and didn’t realize just how much hydration I would actually need. While this did a great job, I still ended up having to pickup an intensive cream lotion by Nivea for my hands and forearms which were very dry and flaky from too much sun and wouldn’t hydrate with just the sunblock.
Baby wipes | store brand
These are the generic store brand from Geant Casino, our local supermarket. We may not have access to a shower daily, but I still like to clean up after a long day of hiking.
Thankfully we were able to replenish things like toothpaste, deodorant, shampoo and such when we went through big towns. Six weeks on the road is a long time and we had to bring enough for two — however, we did not realize that there would be places that separated men and women into different dorms or places where the men’s and women’s showers were in different buildings — we only brought one bottle of everything. But not a problem, we still managed to stay clean and fresh!
FIRST AID
Blister care | Compeed-style mix/cushioned bandages
Foot care, foot care, foot care. The single most important thing for our trip will be our feet. Blisters can cause an unexpected delay of several days so taking care of blisters when they start is very important.
Love, love, love the Compeed! I started the Camino with a blister on the back of each heel. One was slightly more sore than the other so I stuck a Compeed on it and left the other one to heal on it’s own. The heel with the Compeed healed faster and without any drying or scabbing, completely amazed by this stuff. But if you cannot find it before your Camino, it’s available at nearly every Farmacia along the way.
Basic care | Nail clippers/Nail file/Tweezers
Foot care is everything on a trip of this length, so I’m taking these along as a precaution so that toes and fingers stay healthy along the way.
These were basic essentials that, while not needed often, were of major importance for healthy feet.
Pain Reliever | store brand
Just a generic we brought from the US. We have no illusions that this trip will be easy, so I’m bringing a small bottle of Aleve-style pain reliever to reduce muscle ache and pain in case the wine doesn’t quite do it!
We used nearly an entire bottle of a store-brand version of Aleve, but those first couple of weeks we found more than one reason to use them, aches and pains in places that never, ever get sore. As a bonus we had some type of pain reliever to offer to others who were also suffering!
PERSONAL
Kiara’s Camino Collar
It is customary for pilgrims to tie a scallop shell on their packs to signify their pilgrimage. While Adam and Liz were here we had gone to Narbonne Plage, a nice beach on the Mediterranean and while there Liz found several small shells. She graciously allowed me to select one for Kiara, I selected the one that reminded me of the caramel stripe on Kiara’s face, and using the natural hole in the top of the shell I added a link and secured it to a faux pearl stretch bracelet to create a Camino Collar for Kiara. This has now been added to the back of my pack in remembrance of the little dog I love so much and who would have enjoyed this trip immensely.
Kiara’s collar made it there and back without damage to the shell. I would get comments from time to time, mostly someone mentioning that it was pretty, but it was important to me and I was glad that it made it all the way and back home in one piece.
Glasses/Notebook/Pens
I rarely journal but thought that this would be a great way to help jog the memory when I return home from 6 to 7 weeks of hiking so that I have a reference for when I create a digital journal/scrapbook with photos and insights of my Camino.
I used these every single day and really enjoyed journaling about our trip. You meet so many new people and go through so many beautiful cities, it’s nice to jot things down so you don’t forget.
Camera and Gear
Nikon AW100 camera
–Camera | Nikon AW100
I’ve had this since before we moved. It’s rugged, waterproof (to 10 meters/33 feet), shockproof (to 1.5 meters/5 feet), freezeproof (to 14 degrees Farenheit). It is 16 megapixel, 5x zoom, can record full HD video and even has GPS with electronic compass. It’s basically perfect for any outdoor adventure.
While a really great camera, the only time I used it was after my iPhone was stolen. I thought I would use it far more than I actually did and won’t bother to bring it on my next hike, there are easier options available for a long trip like that one.
–Gear | Batteries/SD cards/Charger
I have three batteries, several SD cards (two 32GB, one 16GB, one 4GB and one 1GB) and a lightweight battery charger (with adaptor) that will make up the balance of my camera gear.
I NEVER even unpacked them!
iPhoneand charger
Just for staying in touch and updates to our progress. We do not have a data plan for the iPhones in France, but free wifi allows us to post updates to Facebook and our blog along the way. I haven’t decided whether or not this will make the final cut, Alan is planning to bring his and he can handle the updates and posts with his. I’m wondering if I could spend 7 weeks completely unplugged . . . hmmm. Since the death of my computer I’ve been given a rare opportunity to spend time without a lot of social networking, it may be a possibility.
This was the best option for photos on the fly. I used it more often because of the flexibility of posting photos to friends and family while on the Camino . . . at least until it was stolen!
IDENTIFICATION
Passport
Best to have with me, just in case! Rarely have had to show it, but my driver’s license won’t mean anything to French or Spanish authorities.
We brought them just in case we might need them, but turns out that most albergues ask for your passport number when checking you in, so it turned out to be a smart choice.
Camino Credentials
This is a must for the Camino, it will need to be stored in a ziplock bag within easy reach, especially the last 100 kilometers, as it will need to be stamped twice daily. I am expecting to have more than one by the time we are finished — at least two for the Camino Frances, one for Finisterre and/or Muxia.
Managed to get all the way there with just one credential, it’s nearly full of stamps and is a nice souvenir of the trip. Additional ones are available along the way for one to two euro.
ID
Drivers’ license, passport card, insurance ID.
I brought my Drivers’ license, passport card, and insurance ID and didn’t need any of them. My passport and Camino credential were all the identification I needed.
Insurance Info
When we moved out of the country we purchased a year-long travel insurance that covers us wherever we travel. For most emergencies it has better coverage than our US medical insurance, so we’re bringing along the account information and contact numbers just in case we have an emergency.
Didn’t need this either — even if we had gotten ill it’s just easier to go to a pharmacist and tell them your symptoms and have him dispense the right medications — simple and easy and no doctor visit needed.
Cards
This is really just as a backup, since Alan will have his – but we’d rather not be far from home without access to any of our bank accounts.
It was surprisingly easy to find ATM machines and we rarely charged anything other than a hotel room if the albergue was full, which happened only once.
Salami and Fruit
These two lunch staples will be easy to carry, easy to prepare, and easy to replace so we plan to keep a small amount with us for lunches while we hike. Most of our other meals will be available at cafes, bars and albergues along the way.
We managed more than a few lunches and a dinner or two, with green apples and chorizo and a few sweet rolls that we found in the local markets. Easy to bring along and the green apples stayed unbruised far longer than any other fruit.
Ziplock bags
Just a couple for keeping things contained and dry. I plan to rinse and reuse them for the trip so only taking a couple.
Brought a couple of extras, but never needed them.
Tracy’s backpack weighed in at 15.4 pounds (7 kilograms.)
This was the perfect weight for me. During our initial training for the Camino, I had one day when my pack was at 20 pounds, the additional weight put so much pressure on my hips that I couldn’t get up on my own the next day. In addition to finding the right balance the use of the hiking poles was great at alleviating some of the weight. While some days I got that lighter-than-air feeling after taking it off, most days I didn’t notice it at all. Balance, for me this trip was all about balance.
The first question that will occur to you after you read our Camino equipment lists is, “Do Tracy and Alan own stock in Decathlon and Quechua products?”
The answer is, “No,” but when we minimized to move to France, we downsized enough personal possessions that we arrived in France with only one checked bag and our carry-on. We needed to equip ourselves for the Camino from scratch.
The French “Sports Superstore” Decathlon provided almost complete “one stop shopping” to put our Camino gear together. Had we been in the US our equipment list would have contained more REI, Lowe Alpine, and North Face products. Decathlon has a store branch in Carcassonne and it is extremely well stocked with quality equipment and has a very helpful staff who were patient with my very basic command of French and my less than effective pantomime and sign language. (How does one pantomime “a small stuff bag?”) We were very impressed with the quality of the French outdoor equipment manufacturer, Quechua’s, affordable products.
The general rule we read from pilgrims that have successfully completed the Camino is to limit your pack’s weight to about 10% of your body weight but no more than 20-25 pounds (10-12 kilograms.) We have been doing our best to reach that goal. There are lots of Camino equipment lists available on the Internet and we have tried to learn from other people’s experiences and recommendations. While a person may be able to carry more, carrying excessive weight – week after week – diminished many pilgrims’ enjoyment of the Camino and increased their chance of injury. We have read the experiences of many Pilgrims abandoning or mailing home non-essential gear soon after starting their treks. We are trying to start as minimal as possible in the first place.
Our equipment lists radically changed after our two-pound Chihuahua, Kiara, suddenly passed away two weeks before we depart. We were planning to bring her with us on the Camino with additional gear including a tent in the event an albergue did not allow dogs. Our understanding was that the majority of albergues do not allow animals. Very sadly, Kiara is now joining us only in spirit for our Camino.
It is now one day out from our departure on the Camino. We have packed and weighed our backpacks, discarded several more items, distributed shared gear, and finalized our equipment lists.
After we return from the Camino, we plan to post our critique about our equipment and detail what we liked, disliked, should have brought, and should have left at home.
So what gear are we taking on a 500 mile pilgrimage across the entire width of Spain?
–Lightweight boots|Quechua Chaussures Randonnée Homme Forclaz 500. There are a lot of advocates for using running shoes and trail running shoes on the Camino on the Camino Forums, but since I’ve sprained my ankles numerous times, I wanted the ankle support of a boot. These are waterproof, breathable, and about 2.23 pounds (1000 grams.) We purchased boots early to thoroughly break the boots in before we arrive in Saint Jean-Pied-de-Port to start our Camino. From Decathlon.
Tracy’s boot over the scallop shell sign marking the Camino
–Socks| Four pairs, Quechua Chaussette Forclaz 500 High. I was very skeptical of “High Tech” socks, but I wanted fast drying and moisture wicking socks and figured “It can’t hurt.” This trip is “all about taking care of your feet.” I’m planning to use the “Wear one, Wash one” method to keep weight and bulk down (with second pair if I need a mid-day sock change – “Wear two, Wash two”) From Decathlon.
Chaussette Forclaz 500 High Quechua (From Decathlon Catalog)
–Underwear| Synthetic fabric, fast drying and moisture wicking. From Decathlon
–Pants| Two pairs, Quechua Forclaz 100 Modul Pants (“Wear one, Wash one.”) These are extremely lightweight synthetic fabric pants that are abrasion and tear resistant with water and stain resistance. The pants allow an options to convert them into shorts by “zipping” off the legs (although I’m not really a “shorts” kind of guy.) I wanted fast drying pants that would be comfortable in the heat. Originally I was going wear the Blackhawk Tactical-NonTactical (TNT) pants that I had brought from the States. They are designed for military/law enforcement contractors serving in the Middle East. However, I have lost a fair amount of weight since moving to France and Tracy was concerned that the already loose pants wouldn’t fit at all by the end of the Camino. From Decathlon.
Quechua Forclaz 100 Modul Pants
–Belt| 5.11 Tactical TDU nylon webbing belt – 1 1/2″ with Plastic Buckle. Simple, lightweight, flat profile under my backpack’s waist belt. Unlike a leather belt, this belt is fast drying if it gets wet. From LA Police Gear.
F.11 TDU Belt (5.11 Tactical Catalog)
–Shirts| Two short sleeve, one long sleeve, Quechua T-shirt TechFRESH 100. Lightweight, fast drying, and wicking t-shirts. “Wear one, Wash one” with an optional long sleeve shirt for sun or insect protection and greater warmth. From Decathlon.
Quechua T-shirt TechFRESH 100 (Decathlon Catalog)
–Bandanas| Two bandanas, mainly intended to protect my neck on sunny days because all my shirts are all collar-less.
–Rain shell/Jacket with removable liner: Quechua Veste Forclaz 700. “Three in one” jacket: waterproof, breathable and ventilated. Has a removable quilted inner jacket. My intention is to use this jacket as wind shell, raincoat with hood, and jacket in one item. My backpack has a rain cover so I can avoid a flopping poncho to cover my pack. Since we are starting at the end of August, I elected to leave the quilted liner at home. If needed, I plan pick up a fleece jacket in Galicia when we approach the coast at the start of October rather than possibly carry the jacket liner for weeks without using it. We will see if that’s turns out to be a good decision. I also decided not to carry rain pants. From Decathlon.
Jacket Forclaz 700 Quechua (Decathlon Catalog)
–Hat| Tilley T5MO Organic Cotton AIRFLO Hat. I like a hat with a brim that can serve as a sun hat and can also double as a rain hat. The hat is rated at UPF 50+ for sun protection and is water-resistant. I’ve had great luck with Canadian-made Tilley hats in the past. Tilley hats are well made and they are nearly indestructible. I had to special order out of the UK to get the model I wanted because the choices in sun hats at Decathlon was so mediocre. From Village Hats.
Alan wearing Tilley T5MO Hat
On Person:
–Sunglasses| Ray-Ban Original Wayfarer sunglasses with prescription, polarized lenses with Chums glasses strap and a Hazard 4 Sub-Pod hard case. I trade out my regular prescription eyeglasses with the sunglasses as the conditions warrants.
–Watch| Seiko “Black Monster” Automatic Watch. Waterproof, self-winding with no battery, day and date indicator.
Ray-Ban Wayfarer, Seiko Black Monster, Hazard 4 Case
–Trekking Poles| Pair, Black Diamond 2012 Syncline Trekking Poles with Quechua Nordic Hiking tips. With being 6’04” I liked that the poles adjust up to 57″ (145 cm) for long downhill stretches of trail. I will also carry Quechua Nordic tips to have the option to cover the tips in places where the tip could damage the floor. The pair weighs 1 lb 4 oz (580 g) with a collapsed length of a longish 38 in ( 96.5 cm.) (Tracy’s trekking poles are “three-part” and collapse to a much more compact length.) I’ve used a hiking stick in my youth, but trekking poles will be a new experience for me. Experts say you can shift up to 25% of your weight to the poles, there’s that and the fact I’m just clumsy. The poles may prevent a fall and injury too. From Decathlon.
Black Diamond 2012 Syncline Trekking Poles
Backpack:
–Backpack|Quechua ac à Dos Forclaz 40 Air. We wanted to travel as light as possible and wanted smaller backpack to enforce the limits of what we could carry with us. However, with being 6’04” I wanted a bag with sufficient length to let me use the hip belt to help carry some of the weight. With the 40 Air I believe I achieved those goals with having 41 litres of capacity, 3.5 pounds (1550 grams) total weight, with length adjustable shoulder straps. The “Air” in the description is the mesh back to allow extra air flow and cooling. A rain cover is supplied to keep the bag’s contents dry. From Decathlon.
Backpack Forclaz 40 Air Quechua (Decathlon Catalog)
–Sleeping Bag|Quechua Sac de Couchage Rando 15°C Light XL. There is tons of debate in online Camino forums as to whether to bring a sleeping bag, or just a sleeping bag liner, or simply use blankets provided at the albergues. Tracy and I selected light sleeping bags with matching left and right zippers that allows us to zip the bags together or use separately. The lightweight sleeping bags have a 60 degree F. (15 degree C) comfort rating and weigh about 1.7 pounds (760 grams) each. From Decathlon.
Quechua Sac de Couchage Rando 15°C Light XL
–Sandals|Quechua Sandale Arpenaz 50. After the day’s hike I wanted a lightweight option to allow me to get out of my boots. These 1.3 pound (600 gram) sandals should offer a needed relief for my feet at the end of the hiking day. I could have gone lighter with simple “flip-flops,” but I liked that there is some arch support in the sandals. From Decathlon.
Quechua Sandale Arpenaz 50 (Decathlon Catalog)
–Camera| Olympus TG-820 Tough 12 MP Digital Camera , 5x Wide Optical Zoom, with extra battery and charger. Ask anyone, I am a huge camera and photography guy, however I am embracing the fact I need to minimize weight and that I am performing a spiritual pilgrimage. I am reverting to the basics of my earlier years of shooting a film camera and planning to carefully select meaningful images rather than shooting absolutely everything. The DSLR camera is staying home this trip and I am using “rangefinder-style” camera techniques.
–iPhone and charger| I do not have a phone or data plan for Spain, but I intend to use the iPhone as a “palm top computer” when free Wi-Fi in available to check e-mail, post our progress and photos online.
Camera, iPhone, batteries, and chargers
–Flashlight| Streamlight Stylus Pro LED Flashlight. A 5.3″ x .6″ (134 x 15 mm) mini flashlight weighting 1.64 oz (46.9 g) with 48 lumens output and 6.25 hours runtime powered by two “AAA” alkaline batteries. Most people in the Camino forum say that a flashlight is not necessary, but I wanted a light in the event of a long hiking day. From LA Police Gear
–Guidebooks|A Pilgrim’s Guide To The Camino de Santiago, St. Jean – Roncesvalles – Santiago and A Pilgrim’s Guide to the Camino Finisterre, Santiago – Finisterre – Muxia by John Brierley. Very comprehensive English language guide with directions, maps, history, advice, and even spiritual insights. A marked difference from the amateurish and embarrassingly poorly edited Confraternity of Saint James’ Pilgrim Guide to Spain – 1 Camino France’ 2013 and the amateurish, poorly illustrated, and outdated Confraternity of Saint James’ Pilgrim Guides to Spain 3 Finisterre 2009. There is also discussions in the Camino Forum about whether or not a guidebook is even needed on the well-marked Camiño Francés trails. That’s a reasonable consideration since these two guidebooks weight about one pound total. There is a wonderfully concise Camino France’ “.pdf” guide you can download at http://www.caminoguide.net/ to save weight and space over carrying a guidebook.
Guidebooks and Streamlight Stylus Pro LED Flashlight
–Water bottle| A single Klean Kanteen 27 ounce (800 ml) capacity stainless steel water bottle. Empty weight of the bottles is 8 ounces (227 grams.) The filled bottle weighs 35 ounces – 1027 grams. Many people in the discussion forums advocate just buying commercially available bottled water and refilling those thin bottles or using a bladder system like a CamelBak or Platypus saving at more than half the weight of the metal bottles.
Klean Kateen
-Knife and small cutting board | I have a small knife with a small, thin cutting board that will double as a shared plate for Tracy and I for picnic lunches of sausage, salami, cheese, bread, and fruit.
–Shampoo, soap| Lush brand “Squeaky Green” shampoo bar and carrier tin. I’m using the shampoo bar as both shampoo and body wash. From Lush Comestics, UK. The idea of a shampoo bar came from YouTube blogger Lindsey Cowie at http://www.youtube.com/user/bathedinridicule.
Lush Shampoo Bar
–Sun block
–First aid kit with blister treatments, antiseptic, anti-diarrhea, pain pills, and lip balm
–Safety pins | For use as safety pins, for popping blisters, and serving as clothes pins.
–Toilet Paper
–Hair brush
–Moleskine ruled reporter’s notebook and two pens. | 3.5″ x 5.5″ (9 x 14 cm). I have never done real well with daily journaling, but I wanted to try to take comprehensive notes so I can write detailed posts of our experiences on the trail after we return.
Moleskine Reporter Notebook (Moleskine Catalog)
–Travel towel|Quechua Serviette randonnée. Compact 50″ x 16.5″ (120 cm x 42 cm) 3.7 ounce (106 grams) fast drying, microfiber towel. From Decathlon
Serviette randonnée Quechua
My backpack at departure weighed in at 20.5 pounds (9.3 kilograms)
Shoes| Forclaz 500 Novadry – Brown Hiking Boot by Quechua
“For regular use while hiking in all-weather on trails with moderate gradients. Waterproof and breathable. Featuring numerous reinforced areas and a two-hook fastening system.” I wanted a boot rather than a trail shoe. Not knowing which conditions we’ll be facing in September and October, an all-weather boot made sense and I tend to twist ankles and knees so having additional support was also important. These boots are lightweight (they weigh less than my walking shoes). We bought them about 10 weeks before we were planning to leave on our Camino and have had plenty of time to break them in. I even really liked the color.
Forclaz 500 Novadry – Brown Hiking Boot by Quechua
Jacket | Forclaz 300 Men’s hiking jacket, Blue/Red by Quechua
I selected a men’s hiking jacket since the women’s jackets didn’t meet the same specs for rain and ventilation. These jackets are designed for long hikes and can withstand a great deal of rain. It’s also breathable and ventilated.
Forclaz 300 Men’s hiking jacket, Blue/Red by Quechua
Hat | TMH5 Mash-Up Hat by Tilley
“This hat is made using recycled yarns from hemp and organic cotton fabrics, each hat has an array of different colors woven into it making each unique. Designed with a medium brim with ¾” ventilation mesh around the crown.” Alan has always liked the Tilley brand hats and I thought that I would like to have something to help block the sun that would be comfortable for all-day wear. We found this one on the US site, but it wasn’t available on the UK site, thankfully a very nice lady at the Tilley UK online store was able to ship one from Canada, then sell it to us after she received it. We were able to avoid a 30% duty tax and I now have my first Tilley hat that isn’t that god-awful greenish-tan color but a beautiful soft grey. I added a black and white polka dot scarf as a hat band so that it doesn’t look like a men’s hat and that I can easily remove to cover my shoulders if we are entering a church.
TMH5 Mash-Up Hat by Tilley
Pants | Organic Cotton Capri by Domyos and McKinley convertible pants.
These yoga/pilates capri pants are comfortable, moisture-wicking and breathable. They are also soft, comfy and relatively quick-drying. I can use them as a pajama as well.
Organic Cotton Capri by Domyos
The McKinley hiking pant converts to a short with zip off legs and is lightweight and fast drying. Since we’re looking at a wear-one, wash-one approach, I like the idea of having two pair of pants that have a range of usefulness – shorts, capris, long pants – this should be enough for both hot and cold days.
Convertible Hiking Pant by McKinley
Socks | Forclaz 500 High Socks, Hiking Socks, Light Grey/Green by Quechua
While I’ve never really paid much attention to socks, we’ve purchased and have been using these socks for our Camino training. They cost a bit more than I have EVER paid for a couple of pairs of socks, but they are exactly what they claim to be: Lightweight – perfect for summer hikes, Blister Reducing – I have yet to get a blister while wearing them and Breathable – my feet still get warm after 5 miles of hiking, but not nearly as bad as the socks I used before we bought these. I am curious to find out how they handle the Camino. Oddly enough the knitting is different in each part of the sock and each colored area is knitted in a different pattern so that they stay put, move well and have extra padding for the sides of the toes and the heel.
Forclaz 500 High Socks, Hiking Socks, Light Grey/Green by Quechua
Tops | Assorted
I haven’t really found a particularly great hiking top for women. The men’s shirts have too high of a collar and I have issues with things being around my neck. For comfort and quick dry capability, I selected a couple of tops from the yoga section of Decathlon. Both are by Domyos and are lightweight and moisture wicking. I plan to bring a third top, small strap with shelf bra for sleeping in.
Flipflops | generic style from the grocery store
I wanted something to wear after hiking all day. These are lightweight, fast drying and can be used as a shower shoe if necessary.
HIKING GEAR
Backpack | Forclaz 30 Air Hiking Backpack, Green by Quechua
“For mountain and day hiking in all-weather (hot, rainy, etc.). Weight is distributed between the shoulder straps and belt. A well ventilated back (air cooling label), practical storage (with belt, water bladder and mesh pockets) and rain cover make this a complete hiking backpack. 30 liter volume / weight: 2.3 pounds / full pack dimensions: H 52cm x W 35cm x D 27cm. Load adjuster straps and chest strap. Pockets: 1 inner, 2 outer + mesh pockets, 1 on the belt and pole-carrier.”
After trying on several different sizes and styles, this one fit me the best and didn’t interfere with freedom of movement. We’ve done quite a few training hikes and although I’m still a bit concerned about weight, this pack is extremely comfortable and the ventilated back is very nice. I like the color too.
Forclaz 30 Air Hiking Backpack, Green by Quechua
Hiking Poles | Forclaz 500 Light Soft Blue/White by Quechua
“Three section pole with a collapsed length of 58cm, maximum extended length of 129 cm. Weight: 230 grams. Foam grip. Lined neoprene adjustable loop. Tungsten carbide tips with summer and winter baskets. I opted for two as I have done little long distance hiking and most of the Camino blogs recommend two if you’re bringing them. I started practicing with them during our Camino training hikes about three weeks prior to departure. The poles have helped with a knee that is still sore from a fall a couple of months ago so I’m assuming that they will be a welcome addition on the trip.
Forclaz 500 Light Soft Blue/White by Quechua
Towel | Compact Hiking Towel, Green by Quechua
While just about any towel would do, this one is a lightweight microfiber that is only 42cm wide and 120cm long and weighs only 106 grams. It even came in it’s own stuff bag making it very easy to pack and carry.
Compact Hiking Towel, Green by Quechua
Sleeping bag | 15° Light Hiking Sleeping Bag, Blue by Quechua
We opted for a lightweight bag with a right and left zip option. This particular one has a stuff bag that makes it very compact and storable in your pack. Since Kiara will be coming with us we plan to be camping more than most pilgrims since most albergues do not accept dogs in the hostel. Not really knowing what weather we may be facing over nearly 7 weeks of hiking we decided to get one that was not only light to carry but would keep us warm on a chilly night. My favorite thing about this sleeping bag is that it doesn’t have to be rolled up!!
15° Light Hiking Sleeping Bag, Blue by Quechua
Water Bladder | Forclaz 2L Water Bladder by Quechua
Normally I would prefer my regular water bottle with the dual lined walls that keeps water cold for 30 hours in a hot car, but I opted to try a two-liter water bladder since I’m carrying water for both longer distances and for Kiara as well. I don’t have a lot of experience using a bladder but so far it’s been working for our training hikes and once I cleaned it up with some baking soda and fresh lemon juice the water tastes wonderful if just a bit warmer than I prefer, better than the plastic taste it had at first. This will be the heaviest thing in my pack, but when we know for sure that there are fountains on the trail I can carry less and of course it lightens the load as you use it.
Forclaz 2L Water Bladder by Quechua
HYGIENE
Shampoo bar | Irresistible Bliss byLush
“A dynamic pink shampoo bar for normal hair. To keep hair looking shiny and full of body, wash with this irresistible bar. The perfume is made with neroli (orange blossom) and jasmine to scent it with incredibly sensual florals throughout the day.” Not that I need to smell good, but I like the idea of a shampoo bar so that I’m not carrying liquids that could get messy in my pack. I have a mini microfiber towel for bathing and storing the shampoo bar, less mess, less weight.
Lush Shampoo Bar
Sunblock| Silk Hydration Lotion Sunscreen by Hawaiian Tropic
I started out with a bottle of Loreal but it had glitter in it. I’d rather smell like a coconut than sparkle all day. This has an SPF of 30, which is what my everyday makeup has, so it should do the trick.
Silk Hydration Lotion Sunscreen by Hawaiian Tropic
Baby wipes | store brand
These are the generic store brand from Geant Casino, our local supermarket. We may not have access to a shower daily, but I still like to clean up after a long day of hiking.
Blister care | Compeed-style mix/cushioned bandages
Foot care, foot care, foot care. The single most important thing for our trip will be our feet. Blisters can cause an unexpected delay of several days so taking care of blisters when they start is very important.
Basic care | Nail clippers/Nail file/Tweezers
Foot care is everything on a trip of this length, so I’m taking these along as a precaution so that toes and fingers stay healthy along the way.
Pain Reliever | store brand
Just a generic we brought from the US. We have no illusions that this trip will be easy, so I’m bringing a small bottle of Aleve-style pain reliever to reduce muscle ache and pain in case the wine doesn’t quite do it!
PERSONAL
Kiara’s Camino Collar
It is customary for pilgrims to tie a scallop shell on their packs to signify their pilgrimage. While Adam and Liz were here we had gone to Narbonne Plage, a nice beach on the Mediterranean and while there Liz found several small shells. She graciously allowed me to select one for Kiara, I selected the one that reminded me of the caramel stripe on Kiara’s face, and using the natural hole in the top of the shell I added a link and secured it to a faux pearl stretch bracelet to create a Camino Collar for Kiara. This has now been added to the back of my pack in remembrance of the little dog I love so much and who would have enjoyed this trip immensely.
Glasses/Notebook/Pens
I rarely journal but thought that this would be a great way to help jog the memory when I return home from 6 to 7 weeks of hiking so that I have a reference for when I create a digital journal/scrapbook with photos and insights of my Camino.
Camera and Gear
–Camera | Nikon AW100
I’ve had this since before we moved. It’s rugged, waterproof (to 10 meters/33 feet), shockproof (to 1.5 meters/5 feet), freezeproof (to 14 degrees Farenheit). It is 16 megapixel, 5x zoom, can record full HD video and even has GPS with electronic compass. It’s basically perfect for any outdoor adventure.
Nikon AW100 camera
–Gear | Batteries/SD cards/Charger
I have three batteries, several SD cards (two 32GB, one 16GB, one 4GB and one 1GB) and a lightweight battery charger (with adaptor) that will make up the balance of my camera gear.
iPhoneand charger
Just for staying in touch and updates to our progress. We do not have a data plan for the iPhones in France, but free wifi allows us to post updates to Facebook and our blog along the way. I haven’t decided whether or not this will make the final cut, Alan is planning to bring his and he can handle the updates and posts with his. I’m wondering if I could spend 7 weeks completely unplugged . . . hmmm. Since the death of my computer I’ve been given a rare opportunity to spend time without a lot of social networking, it may be a possibility.
IDENTIFICATION
Passport
Best to have with me, just in case! Rarely have had to show it, but my driver’s license won’t mean anything to French or Spanish authorities.
Pilgrim Passport(s)
This is a must for the Camino, it will need to be stored in a ziplock bag within easy reach, especially the last 100 kilometers, as it will need to be stamped twice daily. I am expecting to have more than one by the time we are finished — at least two for the Camino Frances, one for Finisterre and/or Muxia.
Other ID
Drivers’ license, passport card, insurance ID.
Travel Insurance Info
When we moved out of the country we purchased a year-long travel insurance that covers us wherever we travel. For most emergencies it has better coverage than our US medical insurance, so we’re bringing along the account information and contact numbers just in case we have an emergency.
Credit Cards
This is really just as a backup, since Alan will have his – but we’d rather not be far from home without access to any of our bank accounts.
FOOD
Salami and Fruit
These two lunch staples will be easy to carry, easy to prepare, and easy to replace so we plan to keep a small amount with us for lunches while we hike. Most of our other meals will be available at cafes, bars and albergues along the way.
MISCELLANEOUS
Ziplock bags
Just a couple for keeping things contained and dry. I plan to rinse and reuse them for the trip so only taking a couple.
Tracy’s Backpack weighed in at 15.4 pounds (7 kilograms.)
We have reviewed and lightened up our backpacks as much as we think we can. In the words of Hunter S. Thompson, “Buy the ticket, take the ride.” Time to stop over-thinking gear and get psyched up to enjoy our Camino de Santiago pilgrimage.
See our post camino equipment review, here, or read more about our adventures on our Camino de Santiagopage.
We will do great with our gear. If we need something else, we will just buy it along the way. If we discover we are carrying unneeded gear, we can just donate it to others.
As we finish our final preparations to depart for the Camino de Santiago at the end of the week, I was looking at the statistics for the pilgrimage. It gives me great confidence to see that so many pilgrims are successful in finishing the route and that the vast majority of pilgrims are older than 30 years old rather than just being teens or college-aged men and women. We are looking forward to participating in such a historic spiritual and cultural event. Just a few days to go.
With about three weeks to go until we leave for Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port, Tracy and I are stepping up our training for the Camino de Santiago.
We have been adding weight to our backpacks and extending our daily training walk. Our maximum had been 20 and 30 pounds respectively for a 7.5 mile walk. We have also been taking Kiara the Chihuahua in her carrier to get both us and her used to the process. (Kiara is now bored with the concept and usually just relaxes and watches the view from the window of her carrier or dozes.)
Tracy training for the Camino de SantiagoAlan training for the Camino de Santiago
We intend to publish an equipment list soon, but we are still “tweaking” our lists. The biggest advice we read from pilgrims that have already completed the Camino is to minimize – minimize – minimize the weight. 500 miles is way too long a distance to carry miscellaneous items and extra weight “just in case.” We will probably keep working on minimizing our equipment until the day we leave. We are currently considering the projected temperatures for the end of August and September and thinking if we need a jacket the first of October it might be better to buy one rather than carry one for 475 miles before we actually wear one. Of course, weather is unpredictable so we will just have to (to borrow a quote from Hunter S. Thompson), “Buy the ticket, take the ride.” The training and equipment is all part of the challenge of walking the Camino de Santiago.
Tracy and Kiara training for the Camino
Alan and Kiara training for the Camino
Tracy training for the Camino
Alan and Kiara training for the Camino
We’re getting anxious to start and are sure our departure date will be here before we know it.
Tracy and I received our Credencials del Peregrino (Pilgrims’ Passports) this week from American Pilgrims on the Camino, a non-profit organization that facilitates and assists North American pilgrims, particularly those in the United States. (http://www.americanpilgrims.com/) Credencials are also available from other authorized organizations, confraternities, and at pilgrims offices on the route.
Credencial del Peregrino
The credencials are part of the thousand-year old tradition of the Camino de Santiago. The credencial is a modern version of letters of safe-conduct letters or letters of introductions carried by medieval pilgrims. The document shows that you are a bona fide pilgrim and entitled to have access to low-cost albergues and refugios (hostels.) The credencial is also used to authenticate your process by dated sellos (stamps, similar to a passport stamps) being added along the way.
Sello Stamps (Wikimedia Commons)
Pilgrims normally need to obtain one sello per day from alburgues, churches, town halls, or police stations to document their progress. To ensure pilgrims are actually walking the route and not making use of motor transportation, over the last 100 kilometers pilgrims are required to get two sellos each day. (Pilgrims using bicycles or horses must obtain two sellos daily from 200 kilometers outside Santiago de Compostela.) We are hoping walk enough miles daily on our 500 mile (800 kilometers) trek as to not run out of room for sellos and require us having to obtain a second credencial to allow for additional sellos.
Credencial del Peregrino
At the conclusion of the pilgrimage and reaching Santiago de Compostela we will need to present ourselves at the Cathedral’s Pilgrims Office to have our credencials reviewed prior to being awarded a Compostela. The Compostela isa certificate of accomplishment that is presented to pilgrims who complete at least the last 100 kilometers of the Camino de Santiago and have undertaken the pilgrimage for spiritual or religious motivations. The Compostela dates back to the early middle ages and its text is still in the original Latin. There are over 100,000 Compostelas awarded every year to pilgrims from more than 100 countries. For those pilgrims completing the Camino, but not for spiritual or religious reasons, a Certificate of Completion is alternatively issued in Spanish.
We are now about eight weeks out from our departure date and we are getting very anxious to start walking the Camino.
Sometimes the universe presents a chain of events that require that you “make a leap of faith” and embrace it.
Recently fate led us to being on one of the secondary routes of the Camino de Santiago de Compostela pilgrimage trail. While living in Carcassonne we slowly realized that the start of the Chemin du Piémont Pyrénéen branch of Les Chemins de Saint-Jacques-de-Compostele (the French name for the Camino de Santiago de Compostela) was right at the end of our block.
Chemin du Piémont Pyrénéen
El Camino de Santiago de Compostelaor The Way of Saint James is a series of pilgrimage trails across Europe all leading to Santiago de Compostela Cathedral in Galicia, Spain which Christian tradition holds is the resting place for Saint James the Greater, one of Jesus of Nazareth’s disciples. Dating back 1,200 years, pilgrims of all faiths and backgrounds have been walking the Santiago de Compostela for religious, spiritual, or cultural reasons; for enlightenment; as penance; or as a personal challenge.
Map of Camino de Santiago – Chemins de Saint Jacques From Wikimedia Commons
Tracy and I (with Kiara the micro-dog) have decided starting August 26 we will begin the pilgrimage and backpack the 500 miles (800 kilometer) path from Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port on France’s Western border; over the Pyrenees Mountains and through Basque country; passing through the cities of Pamplona (famous for the “Running of the Bulls and Hemingway’s “The Sun Also Rises”), Logroño, Burgo, and León; across the Meseta plains; into the green hills of Galicia; and ending at the UNESCO World Heritage Site of the city of Santiago de Compostela and its cathedral. The trek should take us a minimum of five weeks.
Camino de Santiago – The French Route (Google Maps)
Our preparations so far:
1. Our hiking equipment has been obtained, most importantly our boots. The number one issue we hear from every guidebook, website, and blog is to have shoes appropriate for you and to break those shoes in thoroughly. I’m an old Boy Scout who has sprained his ankles frequently in the past so I’m an advocate of wearing boots for ankle support although there are many supporter of wearing lightweight hiking shoes for the Camino. The hiking gear we didn’t bring to France was purchased at Decathlon Sports in Carcassonne (a French sports megastore.) Many of the products we obtained are made by Quechua, a French version of “The North Face.” We will post our final equipment list in a later blog.
Tracy’s Camino Gear
2. We requested our credencial, our pilgrim’s passport, from American Pilgrims on the Camino (http://www.americanpilgrims.com), the United States’ confraternity for Camino pilgrims. The credencial allows us to stay at pilgrim albergues and refugio (hostels along the route) and to authenticate our progress with sellos stamps (like a passport stamps) at albergues, churches, town halls, and police stations along the way.
3. We researched and obtained guidebooks that explain the various routes, history, and provide maps of the Camino. We selected John Brierley’s A Pilgrim’s Guide to the Camino de Santiago, the Confraternity of Saint James’ The Camino Francés: St-Jean-Pied-de-Port to Santiago de Compostela, and CaminoGuide.net’sCamino Francés.We wanted some alternative views but plan to only bring one guide with us on the Camino. We have been reading blogs and forums about walking the Camino, we both greatly enjoyed and recommend http://www.girlsontheway.com/.
4. We selected the Camino Francés as our route (Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port, France to Santiago de Compostela, Spain across the entire Northern end of Spain), picked our departure date as the last week in August, and made hotel and train reservations for Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port where we will start the journey. We decided on a final night in a hotel to be well rested before our departure. The hotel is located near the Pilgrim’s Office so we can arrange our final details before leaving.
5. We have started a daily training regimen that includes walking the biggest hill nearby, the road to the medieval city of la Cité de Carcassonne. The training is also part of our process to “break in” our boots and get acclimatized to carrying backpacks, something I did all through my youth and young adulthood but an activity I haven’t done in more than a decade.
Tracy hiking the barbicane at la Cité de CarcassonneAlan hiking the bailey in la Cité de Carcassonne
6. We obtained a chest carrier for Kiara. Yes, Kiara the Chihuahua is traveling the Camino with us. We understand that many albergues do not allow dogs, but we intend to camp whenever that occurs. Kiara will do some daily walking, but most of her traveling will be as a passenger on her “beasts of burden” (the two of us) like the horseback pilgrims who also travel the Camino.
So our Camino preparations continue and we will post more updates as we go.
Tracy’s boot over the scallop shell sign marking the Camino
People say that the Camino finds you. We believe this to be true. Both Alan and I were aware of the Santiago de Compostela cathedral, in Spain. I even have a friend who took some amazing photos on a vacation once. But neither of us had never heard about the pilgrimage from St. Jean Pied-du-Port to Santiago de Compostela until right before we moved to France.
We were (and would be still if it were available here) major Rick Steve’s junkies, our DVR was full of 30 minute episodes from his trips all over Europe that we would watch over two or three nights – I kept falling asleep at about the 10 minute mark each night. During an episode when he was in Spain, he mentioned the Camino de Santiago de Compostela and the French Route from St. Jean Pied-du-Port. We found the episode interesting and then promptly forgot all about it in our rush to finish our pre-move checklist and goodbyes.
Upon arriving in France, we noticed that the little park up the street where we walk Kiara had signs that we couldn’t quite figure out. Blue background with yellow lines joined at the left and radiating out like a child’s drawing of the sun, or rather 1/3 of it. For weeks we couldn’t figure it out and eventually tuned it out as an oddity.
The other thing we noticed around the city was a stripe of white over a stripe of red. This pattern is found everywhere and with rather odd placement. Posts, railings, trashcans, trees, power poles, corners of buildings. It can be found painted, as reflective tape or decals. We reasoned that perhaps it had something to do with parking or some other obscure city ordinance that we would never figure out.
Then two weeks ago, a construction crew was putting up a large signboard in Kiara’s park on the path that follows the Aude River. A few days later, we wandered over to take a look at it. It is a signboard that explains that the Arles Route (Arles to Toulouse) of the Camino de Santiago de Compostela runs through Carcassonne. The sign has great graphics showing the route through town.
We were both surprised to find out a couple of things: 1) the Camino doesn’t start just in St. Jean Pied-du-Port (there are a lot of starting points all over Europe) and 2) it literally runs right in front of our apartment.
I remembered a month ago while sitting in the window seat and having my morning coffee that a hiker with a scallop shell on his backpack walked up the street. I knew that the scallop shell meant that the person was walking or had walked the Camino from the Rick Steve’s episode I had seen a few months earlier. I figured that he had done it once before and thought “cool” and promptly put it out of my mind. Seeing him made total sense after seeing the signboard.
Alan did a little Google research about the Camino and found that Emilio Esteves had done an Indy film in 2010 called “The Way.” I found it in iTunes and downloaded it. We watched it last week and it took less than an hour for us to look at each other and say “Let’s do it.”
As I mentioned earlier, they say the Camino finds you and for us that is definitely true — since it is literally right outside our front door. So rather than waiting for “someday” we’ve decided to listen to the universe and go for a walk.
Currently we’re planning a pilgrimage to Santiago de Compostela in Spain. 500 miles over mountains and plains from St. Jean Pied-du-Port in France to Santiago, Spain.
There are three pilgrimages that all Catholics are encouraged to make in their lifetime, St. Peter’s in Rome (which we’ve done — in addition, the Bishop’s Office in Rome also encourages you to visit all four of the major basilicas while in Rome — you’re there any way — so we did in 2011), Santiago de Compostela (which we are planning) and Jerusalem (which has been on both our wish lists for sometime).
The Camino de Santiago can be done as a religious or non-religious pilgrimage. We discussed it and decided to do this as a religious one — technically religious/cultural. Alan isn’t Catholic, but I have been since my first breath, albeit non-practicing most of the time. I think God will overlook my absences since we’re usually on pretty good terms regardless of whether or not I sit in a pew on Sundays.
Pilgrims are given a special passport — a “credential” — that you get stamped along the way and a “compostela” upon arrival. The paper and printing methods have changed but the design of the document has remained unchanged for over a thousand years.
All pilgrims are encouraged to carry the symbol of St. James (who is buried in the church in Santiago) which is a scallop shell, we are getting a special one for Kiara for her carrier. We will have ours attached to our backpacks like all the other pilgrims. Additionally, Camino charms are sold in many of the towns along the way — Kiara will probably end up with new jewelry too.
There are auberges (pilgrim hotels) along the way which charge very little for dinner, a bed, breakfast and a place to shower, usually between 5 and 15 euro ($8 to $18 roughly). Most have washers and dryers so that you can keep your clothes clean on the journey. A few do not allow dogs, hence the need for the tent!
Our route will take us through the Pyrenees mountain range, starting on day one! We want to complete it in 5 weeks so we’ll need to hike an average of about 15 miles a day with a day of rest once or twice along the hike, but since we are retired we’re not too worried if we need extra time.
We have spent the last two days purchasing good hiking shoes, tent, sleeping bags and packs. We’ve loaded them up and weighed them. We are astonished at the new fabrics and technology in design that keeps everything weighing very little. Alan’s pack weighs under 20 pounds, mine weighs under 14. It’s still boggles my mind a bit! Kiara will be coming along in her special chest carrier that we purchased while we were still in Reno, I will be carrying her sweater, blanket and food. The plan includes letting her walk a little each day so she can do a “mini-Camino” or as we call it, a “Chi-Camino.”
We are now setting up a training schedule for the next 10 weeks, working up to the 15 miles a day that we’ll need to average in order to complete our little walk in five weeks. The Camino de Santiago de Compostela from St. Jean Pied-du-Port is 800 kilometers or roughly 500 miles.
Alan will be posting additional information in the next few days for anyone interested in learning more about the Camino. We are batting around ideas about how to do updates along the way, or whether we should just do one big update when we arrive home, we’ll let everyone know what we decide before we leave.
An Italian Point Of View 