French Baking, Part 1: Éclair

So what about French pastries?  Are they really as good as their reputation?  The answer is:  Absolutely!

Going to a real pâtisserie is an amazing experience.  One of the modern laments in France in that neighborhood bakeries are getting fewer and fewer because of the growing number of supermarkets and that many bakeries attempt to be both a pâtisserie (pastry bakery) and boulangerie (bread bakery.)   It is a commonly held belief that a pâtissier (pastry chef) and a boulanger (baker), while both well-respected as professionals, have totally different skill sets.  Purists argue a good boulanger cannot also be a good pâtissier.  Visiting dedicated pâtisseries and trying their pastries have made me a believer of that assertion.

Pâtisserie
Pâtisserie

I thought I would discuss the classic French pastry, the éclair, first.  An éclair is made with pâte à choux, a light pastry dough.  The reason a pâtisserie’s expertise is required is that éclairs are baked without using any rising agent.  The pâtisserie uses only the moisture in the pâte à choux dough to create steam that “puffs” the pastry.

I visited my neighborhood pâtisserie saw and smelled some incredible treats on display.  The window had large empty spaces from early rising shoppers.

Pâtisserie Display
Pâtisserie Display
Pâtisserie Display
Pâtisserie Display

I purchased two éclairs and the pâtisserie proceeded to carefully box and wrap the pastries, in Tracy’s words, “like a Christmas gift from Nordstroms.”

Éclair Box
Éclair Box

So how do they taste? Incredibly good!  The  éclair’s exterior is tan and crisp with layers of soft pastry inside.  The filling is actually custard, rich and thick, not whipped cream or pudding.  Chocolate and coffee iced éclairs are the most common with matching chocolate and coffee custard filling inside.  The richness of the pastry and custard make a single éclair a complete treat.  Melt in your mouth delicious.

Éclair
Éclair

French Beverages, Part 5: Martini Blanc and Martini Rouge

No, these are not my beloved gin Martini (two ounces Bombay Sapphire Gin, scant capful of Martini & Rossi Dry Vermouth, shaken until freezing cold, with three blue cheese stuffed olives added) or James Bond’s famous vodka Martini ( . . . with a thin slice of lemon, shaken, not stirred.)

These classic French before-dinner drinks are simply a glass of white or red vermouth.  While vermouth is most commonly just a mixer in the US, in Europe it is also served as a stand alone aperitif of 2 to 3 ounces (6 to 9 centilitre) either neat, chilled, or over ice.  Vermouth is a fortified wine (13-24% alcohol content), that has been aromatized by infusing it with botanicals: spices and herbs, the most notable of which is wormwood.  The modern version of vermouth was created in Turin, Italy in 1768.  Vermouth quickly became a popular drink at the Turin Royal Court and its popularity spread throughout Europe from there.

Martini Blanc (Martini White)

Martini Blanc
Martini Blanc

Here in Carcassonne I am served two ounces of Martini Bianco vermouth over ice with a slice of lemon with a small spoon in a specific Martini Logo glass.  The spoon is used to stir the drink to cool the vermouth.  This is sweet vermouth with a slightly bitter citrus taste and an undertaste of vanilla.

Martini Rouge (Martini Red)

Martini Rouge
Martini Rouge

The Rouge version of the Martini has two ounces of Martini Rosso vermouth poured over ice with a slice of orange.  Like the Blanc, it is served in a Martini Logo glass with a small spoon.  Another sweet vermouth, but this one has notes of slightly bitter orange.

The Italian vermouth Cinzano and French vermouth Noilly Prat are widely available in France.   There are also straw-colored dry and rosé vermouths choices available.

So what do I think?  I would be happy to accept a Martini Rouge from a host as an aperitif at a gathering.  It’s pleasant, refreshing, and I would prefer the Rouge to the Blanc.  The Rouge has more of a “wine-like” quality to its flavor than the Blanc.

I enjoyed both drinks, although while having them it brought back the memory of the pained look on Bill Murray’s face in the film “Groundhog Day” when he is forced to drink Andie MacDowell’s character’s favorite drink, “Sweet vermouth on the rocks with a twist.”  These would not be my “go to” beverages.

With all said and done,  I really prefer to have my vermouth as a few drops of dry vermouth added to a traditional gin Martini.  In order to get that classic Martini cocktail in France one must specifically order a “Dry Martini” or a Martini sec.

Gin Martini
Gin Martini

Carcassonne: Oenovideo Film Festival and Terroirs d’Images Photo Exhibition

On May 30 through June 2, Cité de Carcassonne hosted Le 20e Festival Œnovidéo, véritable moment de rencontre internationale entre le monde du cinéma et du vin, vient de se clôturer (the 20th Annual Oenovideo International Grape and Wine Film Festival) and le 8e Torroirs d’Images Exposition Internationale de Photographies sur la Vigne et le Vin (the 8th Annual Terroirs d’Images Exhibition of  Vine and Wine Photography.)

Oenovideo Film Festival
Oenovideo Film Festival
Terroirs d'Images Photo Exhibition
Terroirs d’Images Photo Exhibition

The Oenovidéo International Grape and Wine Film Festival featured 26 films from 14 countries competing for the title of best film on the vine and wine in 2013.  The Terroirs d’Images Photo Exhibition hosted 105 photos from photographers from 14 countries on the theme “Enjoy and celebrate wines on five continents.

After going to the website I was able to request tickets to the film showings and to attend the photography exhibition.  The event’s headquarter was at Hôtel de la Cité Carcassonne, a four star hotel located inside the medieval city and next to Basilique Saint-Nazaire-et-Saint-Celse de Carcassonne (the Basilica of St. Nazaire and St. Celse).  The hotel has stunning private gardens where several events were held.

The films screened at the festival included several English language films including my favorite selection, “No Wine Left Behind,” a “kickstarter-funded” independent film which is described as, “When US Marine Sergeant Josh Laine returned from intense fighting in Iraq to his native Livermore, CA, he couldn’t find a job anywhere. When a girlfriend got him into wine, he decided to take a crack at winemaking and with the help of the other Marines that he served with, Lavish Laines Winery was born. The winery has since become a place where returning veterans can find a job, camaraderie, and a sense of purpose. The film follows Josh and his fellow vets as they try to take the winery from a garage start-up to a fully-fledged operation and in the process explores the challenges vets face in transitioning back to civilian life.”

Tracy and I really enjoyed the Terroirs d’Images Photo Exhibition.  The gallery was set up inside le Cité de Carcassonne’s Trésau Tower and  the venue gave the photos a powerful setting.  The images were suspended on thin wires to emphasize the photographer’s work.  There was a “No Photos” inside the gallery rule, but I took one overall shot to give you an impression of the exhibition and the presentation of the art.

Photo gallery inside Trésau Tower.
Photo gallery inside Trésau Tower.

Some of the photos were “blown-up” and displayed outside the gallery so I can share some of those below.

Tracy outside the exhibition with two photos displayed inside. Eighth Annual Terroirs d'Images International Photo Exposition.
Tracy outside the exhibition with two photos displayed inside. Eighth Annual Terroirs d’Images International Photo Exposition.

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Carcassonne: Equiaude Parade and Cheval en Fête (Horse Festival)

We had a great time at the Cheval en Fête (Horse Festival) today.  We watched more than 100 riders participate in the Equiaude Equestrian Parade.  The cavaliers rode from the medieval citadel of la Cité de Carcassonne, down and across du Pont Vieux (the Old Bridge), around Square Gambetta, through the streets of Carcassonne, and ending at the Hippodrome de la Fajeolle.

Equiaude Equestrian Parade passing over the Pont Vieux (Old Bridge) with la Cité de Carcassonne in the background.
Equiaude Equestrian Parade passing over the Pont Vieux (Old Bridge) with la Cité de Carcassonne in the background.

The participants ranged from mature to the very young.  There appeared to be several riding schools with groups of young people in matching shirts singing together as they rode.  Riders were using western saddles, dressage saddles, Australian saddles, and jumping saddles and there was a couple of horse-drawn carriages also participating.  With the municipal police taking front and rear of the procession for safety, the parade passed through town with the children happily waving to spectators.

The parade is part of a two-day equestrian competition at Carcassonne’s hippodrome.  The Equiaude Parade (Equi = equestrian, Aude = our department in France) is anticipated in Carcassonne like the annual Reno Rodeo Cattle Drive.

Equiaude Equestrian Parade
Equiaude Equestrian Parade

It was odd not to see iconic American Mustangs or Quarter Horses among the horses, but there were some beautiful Arabians and Thoroughbreds, with ponies and horse/mule hybrids for the children.  While I’ve been in a saddle fewer times than I have fingers, Tracy is a former horsewoman who explained tack and horses breds as they passed.

The part we enjoyed the most was the smiles and laughter of all the young riders as they enjoyed being the center of the attention while waving to the spectators and singing in unison.

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Carcassonne: Monet-Goyon Vintage Motorcycle

There I was “walking around the neighborhood” when I spotted this vintage Monet-Goyon motorcycle in the window of an insurance agency. I knew I had to get photos for my brother, Gary, who has always been a motorcycle enthusiast.   After a bit of a struggle getting the proprietor to understand my inadequate French, he was happy to let me take some photos of this beautifully restored classic motorcycle.  The insurance agency apparently is also a sponsor of the Circuit des Remparts, a race for classic Grand Prix and Formula 2 cars in Angoulême.  The annual event also hosts a Concours d’Élégance gathering of  vintage and prestigious cars, a “Hot August Nights” event for classic French and European cars.

Monet-Goyon 100 cc Motorcycle, circa 1954
Monet-Goyon 100 cc Motorcycle, circa 1954

Monet-Goyon motorcycles were made in France from about 1917 to 1959.  The factory was located in Mâcon, in the department of Saône-et-Loire in the region of Burgundy.

After researching online and getting information from Gary, I learned that Monet-Goyon motorcycles were widely used in France.  The Mâcon factory  (which also built Koehler Escoffier motorcycles) produced numerous Villiers (British brand 2 stroke engines) and MAG (Swiss brand 4 stroke engines) powered motorcycles up until 1939.  After the end of World War II, Monet-Goyon resumed production of small displacement motorcycles and scooters until finally closing its doors at the end of the 1950’s.

I believe this model is a Monet-Goyon 100cc S2G-1954G.  Fun little discovery and I’ve added the Circuit des Remparts and its Concours d’Élégance to my list of “Events to Attend” in France.

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French Beverages, Part 4: Kir

One of the iconic French cocktails is Kir (pronounced “keer”.)

Light and refreshing, it is considered the perfect summer aperitif.

The back story to the drink was that the mayor of Dijon, Felix Kir (a Catholic priest and hero in the French resistance during WWII), wanted to promote Dijon’s local products during the post-World War II economic recovery.  But the Nazis had previously confiscated the entire production of Burgundy wine for which Dijon is well-known and there was left a surplus of the then-unknown Aligoté dry white wine.  In a marketing coup, Mayor Kir invited delegations from around the country to receptions in Dijon and served them a cocktail he created using the Aligoté wine and Crème de Cassis, a sweet, dark blackcurrant liqueur that was also produced locally.  The Crème de Cassis‘ sweetness offset and balances the acidity and dryness of the Aligoté wine. Mayor Kir’s cocktail was a big hit and resulted in huge sales of both Aligoté wine and Crème de Cassis liqueur.

Kir Cocktail
Kir Cocktail

Today you may order the classic Kir with Crème de Cassis (blackcurrant), Kir de Mûre (blackberry), Kir de Framboise (raspberry), Kir de Pêche (peach), or you can “up the ante” to a Kir Royal made with champagne.

Most Kir cocktails today will be made using a local dry white wine and mixed one part Crème de Cassis to four parts wine-producing a deep blush color. Kir is served in a white wine glass and Kir Royal is presented in a champagne flute.

What do I think?  I like it. It’s very refreshing on a sunny afternoon, but it’s a little too reminiscent of a wine cooler to me.  It might be a nice change of pace, but I think I’d rather just have a good glass of wine (or a carafe of wine) to enjoy the afternoon.

Kir Cocktail
Kir Cocktail

Carcassonne: Fête du Pain (Bread Festival)

Carcassonne seems to have special events every week.  This week was la Fête du Pain (the Bread Festival) sponsored by a local professional baking college, Saint Honoré Academy.  (Saint Honoré is the patron saint of bakers.)  All the events in Carcassonne reminds us of all the special event we used to experience in Reno, Nevada.  French people really do take fresh baked bread seriously and we have found that in France, “Bread is king.”

The school set up both wood-fired and electric ovens in event tents on the perimeter of Square Gambetta We could smell freshly baked bread and hear the DJ’s music as we walked the block from our apartment to the Square.  A dozen artisan bakers and apprentices were busy baking baguettes, breads, croissants, cakes, bread sculptures, and pies for exhibition and sale to the public.  Many of the breads were created using the French twice-baked technique that makes that especially crusty bread that France is well-known for serving.

Fête du Pain
Fête du Pain
Fête du Pain
Fête du Pain
Fête du Pain - Baker working the wood fired oven
Fête du Pain – Baker working the wood fired oven

Tracy and I tried the pain au chocolat (chocolate croissant), a favorite of ours, and watched the bakers perform for the crowds.  There was an area for children to decorate cookies and an inflatable “bounce house” with multiple food and craft vendors along the Square to visit as well.

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Carcassonne: Jardin du Calvaire (Calvary Garden)

We discovered Jardin du Calvaire (Calvary Garden) located inside one of Carcassonne’s three remaining bastions.  The “Big Tower” (also called the Bastion les Moulins [Tower of the Mills]) was built after 1359 and was part of the walls and fortifications that used to surround the Bastide Saint-Louis (Ville Basse) of Carcassonne.  Located on the Southwest corner of the city, the bastion was later covered with windmills in 1599 to power mills grinding grain into flour for bakeries that would supply the city with “300 breads everyday for the poor.”

Location of the Jardin du Calvaire within Carcassonne's Ville Basse
Location of the Jardin du Calvaire within Carcassonne’s Ville Basse

In 1825 a group formed to create the Jardin du Calvaire within the bastion.  The leader of the group was Canon Cazaintre who is now buried on the site. The garden’s design was created by architect Jean-François Champagne.  Jardin du Calvaire is circled with “Station of the Cross” shrines on its perimeter, has cypress and olive trees and laurels, and  impressive sculptures reenacting the crucifixion on Calvary Hill.  The crucifixion tableau is shielded by trees and cannot been seen from the regular garden; the sculptures can only be viewed after climbing to the top of the small hill in the garden.  There is a small chapel built into the hill that represents the Holy Sepulcher and is illuminated with natural light from the crucifixion scene above.

Chapel within the Jardin du Calvaire
Chapel within the Jardin du Calvaire
Within the Chapel in the Jardin du Calvaire
Within the Chapel in the Jardin du Calvaire

This urban garden is very peaceful with many benches along its paths.  The restful quiet can make you forget that Jardin du Calvaire is situated alongside the major avenue of Boulevard Barbès.

One of Tracy’s favorite things about the garden are its numerous feral, but friendly cats cruising the garden and serving as unofficial “guardians” for the garden.

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OFII Medical Exam and Titre de Sejour

xamTracy and I are extremely excited that we have successfully completed our process for obtaining our Titre de Sejour (resident permits) at the OFII (L’Office Français de l’Immigration et de l’Intégration) office in Montpellier yesterday.

Titre de Sejour
Titre de Sejour

The detailed process started in January 2013 when we first applied for our initial visa application at the French Consulate in San Francisco.  After our visa request was accepted, the consulate gave us each a form, Demande d’Attestation OFII, that we would need to mail to the regional OFII office having jurisdiction over our new residence after our arrival in France.  We added the Demande d’Attestation forms to our growing dossier of documents which we carefully hand carried on our flight to France.

During the first week in Carcassonne, we ventured to the post office to mail the Demande d’Attestation forms and supporting photocopies (passport page showing personal information with identification numbers, stamp from French immigration showing the date and point of entry, and  the visa that was issued by the Consulate.)  This involved using of our very limited French to mail a certified letter with receipt showing proof of posting. Titre de Sejour process is time sensitive and has to be completed within 90 days, so not knowing how long the French bureaucracy might take, we wanted to get it started as quickly as possible.

Surprisingly, we received back a confirmation letter back from OFII in a week’s time with an appointment set for May 23 for our medical exam and interview in Montpellier. At least that is what we discovered after a lengthy translation session with the five pages of correspondence enclosed.  Thank goodness for Google Translate and a French-English dictionary.  The medical exam appeared to be centered around a chest x-ray so we assumed the biggest concern for OFII was immigrants from developing countries with possible tuberculosis.

This past week was busy as we double-checked that we had all the additional supporting documents to bring for the appointment in our dossier.  We needed proof of our address in the form of a rental agreement and rent receipts, our passports with our original visa, extra passport photos, and payment in the form of 241€ each in tax stamps.

The confirmation letter from OFII said that we could obtain the tax stamps at specially designated tabacs, tobacco stores, (basically your neighborhood “7-11” store.)  That put me on the hunt for  finding a “specially designated” tabac, again using my very limited French.  Off to the friendly corner tabac at the end of our block, “Etes-vous en mesure de me timbre vendre pour montant de 241€?”  “No,” but the very helpful woman escorted me out the door to point into town and give me a lengthy explanation of who could help me.  I, of course, understood one word out of every four. So I smiled politely, said merci, and wandered into town to try my luck at another tabac.  And another tabac, and another tabac, and still another tabac without success.

I thought I should take another tack and visit the Tourist Information office, mainly to speak with a bilingual person who might have an idea of which tabac might be able to help me.  The three people at the Tourist Office conferred and, since this was a government issue, sent me to the Prefect office down the block.  Unfortunately the Prefect closed at 4:00 so I went to the only government office that was open, the post office.  La Poste does nearly everything in France, including having its own national banking service, so I hoped they might even have tax stamps along with their postage stamps.  A very nice young woman with fairly good English explained that La Poste doesn’t issue tax stamps, but suggested the tabac/bar in front of the post office.  Score!  The proprietor was only too happy to sell me a four 90€, four 30€, and two 1€ tax stamps.

OFII
OFII

The day before the appointment we went to the train station for the seemingly simple task was getting train tickets to Montpellier, 90 miles east of Carcassonne.  We had been to Montpellier a couple of times by train with no problems.  However, the day of our appointment we learned that there was going to be a rail strike starting that evening when we needed to return home.  Just when I was considering trying to telephone OFII and reschedule the appointment, the ticket agent nonchalantly scheduled us for a bus ride back to Carcassonne.  Problem solved.

The morning of the appointment Tracy and I had a pleasant train ride to Montpellier and walked a block from the train station to the very conveniently located OFII office in a nondescript office business.  We joined a diverse group of OFII clients waiting for our appointment at 1:30.  The group included people from Asia, the Middle East, Africa, us from the US, and an older Australian couple that would play into this story.  Once the office open the OFII staff systematically and efficiently processed the people in our group.  The staff was very good about working with immigrants who may have limited skills speaking French.

We were kind of thrown for a loop when Tracy was called for her x-ray as “Tracy White,” her maiden name with a French pronunciation.  But the confusion was temporary and Tracy was up and gone getting her chest x-ray.  I later got confused where to go after my name was called for my x-ray and joined the wrong group.  The staff patiently redirected my path and the x-ray process was quick and easy followed by an interview with a nurse on health issues, an eye exam, and height and weight measurements.  Apparently a change in diet and walking everyday has very good for us since we’ve lost about 30 pounds since our arrival in France.

Next we were seen by the doctor who read our x-rays, reviewed our medical histories, and signed off on our medical clearances. We were given our x-ray films to take home ( “. . . lovely parting gifts”)  which appears to be the norm for x-rays in France.

Chest X-ray
Chest X-ray

Now back to the Aussie couple.  While we were waiting for our final interview, the Australian couple went in ahead of us for their final interview.  I previously discussed how in this part of France any “generic English speaker” is assumed to be British.  Well, apparently we also “all look alike” too.  Granted that the Aussie man and I are “of an age” with grey hair, but by no stretch of the imagination could Tracy be confused with the Aussie’s rather dowdy wife who is about 20 years older than Tracy.  However, the woman performing the Aussies’ final interview initially put our Titre de Sejour stickers into their passports.  Once we walked in and she saw our paperwork, she realized she confused us with the only other English-speaking couple in the group; she sprinted to the elevator to catch the Aussies before that left the building.  She and another OFII staff member carefully removed our Titre de Sejour stickers from the Aussies’ passports before the adhesive “set” and then re-applied our Titre de Sejour into our passports.  For a while there Tracy and I would have been living in France under assumed identities and nationalities.

Our staff member kept apologizing for the mix up as she processed our tax stamps and final paper work.  That was only “snag” in our entire residency process, so we were very pleased with how smooth the French bureaucracy had treated us.  There were a few more final signatures and the use of a rubber stamp and we were then official residents of France.  Our appointment at the OFII office lasted an hour and forty-five minutes from start to finish, I’ve spent more time than that waiting at DMV to register a car.

Nothing more to worry about with our residency until we start our renewal process in January.  Hopefully by then the new four-year renewal period will be approved rather than the current annual renewal.