Camino de Santiago: Equipment Review

Our original equipment lists updated with our after Camino review (in red). Suffice it to say that we did a fair amount of research in the beginning and were, for the most part, pleased with our choices.

If you would like to read more about our Camino experiences, see our Camino de Santiago page.

ALAN’S EQUIPMENT LIST

Clothing from the ground up:

before-after

Lightweight boots|  Quechua Chaussures Randonnée Homme Forclaz 500.  There are a lot of advocates for using running shoes and trail running shoes on the Camino on the Camino Forums, but since I’ve sprained my ankles numerous times, I wanted the ankle support of a boot.  These are waterproof, breathable, and about 2.23 pounds (1000 grams.)  We purchased boots early to thoroughly break the boots in before we arrive in Saint Jean-Pied-de-Port to start our Camino.  From Decathlon.

For fairly inexpensive boots, these worked wonderfully.  Often I resented having to take my boots off in an albergue because I really appreciated the support.  I did go through two pairs of bootlaces and would carry extras in the future.  

Chaussette Forclaz 500 High Quechua (From Decathlon Catalog)
Chaussette Forclaz 500 High Quechua
(From Decathlon Catalog)
Socks|  Four pairs, Quechua Chaussette Forclaz 500 High.  I was very skeptical of “High Tech” socks, but I wanted fast drying and moisture wicking socks and figured “It can’t hurt.”  This trip is “all about taking care of your feet.”  I’m planning to use the “Wear one, Wash one” method to keep weight and bulk down (with second pair if I need a mid-day sock change – “Wear two, Wash two”)   From Decathlon.

Great call with the “high tech” socks.  They were comfortable and wicked moisture well.  They dried after washing quickly.  The only problem I had was losing two of my four pairs when Tracy’s phone was stolen.  By the end of the Camino the remaining socks were starting to wear through with holes.

Underwear|  Synthetic fabric, fast drying and moisture wicking.  From Decathlon

The quick dying underwear were a good call.  Three pairs allowed me to always have clean underwear throughout the Camino.

Quechua Forclaz 100 Modul Pants
Quechua Forclaz 100 Modul Pants

Pants|  Two pairs, Quechua Forclaz 100 Modul Pants  (“Wear one, Wash one.”)  These are extremely lightweight synthetic fabric pants that are abrasion and tear resistant with water and stain resistance.  The pants allow an options to convert them into shorts by “zipping” off the legs (although I’m not really a “shorts” kind of guy.)  I wanted fast drying pants that would be comfortable in the heat.  Originally I was going wear the Blackhawk Tactical-NonTactical (TNT) pants that I had brought from the States.  They are designed for military/law enforcement contractors serving in the Middle East.  However, I have lost a fair amount of weight since moving to France and Tracy was concerned that the already loose pants wouldn’t fit at all by the end of the Camino.  From Decathlon.

The pants worked perfectly, they were comfortable and fast drying either after washing or from the rain.  The front zip pocket allowed me to always have my wallet with me.  While I never did shorts, the “zip-off” legs allowed me the wash them separately. The only thing I might do differently was wear one pair and have a pair of shorts for the albergue.

F.11 TDU Belt (5.11 Tactical Catalog)
F.11 TDU Belt
(5.11 Tactical Catalog)

Belt|  5.11 Tactical TDU nylon webbing belt – 1 1/2″ with Plastic Buckle.  Simple, lightweight, flat profile under my backpack’s waist belt.  Unlike a leather belt, this belt is fast drying if it gets wet.  From LA Police Gear.

Perfect: lightweight, functional, fast drying.

Quechua T-shirt TechFRESH 100 (Decathlon Catalog)
Quechua T-shirt TechFRESH 100
(Decathlon Catalog)

Shirts|  Two short sleeve, one long sleeve,  Quechua T-shirt TechFRESH 100.  Lightweight, fast drying, and wicking t-shirts.   “Wear one, Wash one” with an optional long sleeve shirt for sun or insect protection and greater warmth.   From Decathlon.

Worked very well.  The shirts were comfortable and breathe well.  The shirts dried very quickly.  The long sleeve shirt often served as an impromptu “sweater” layered over a short sleeve shirt. 

Bandanas|  Two bandanas, mainly intended to protect my neck on sunny days because all my shirts are all collar-less.

I wore one bandana to protect my neck from the sun.  Although 100% cotton it was always dry by the next morning.  I only needed one bandana.

Jacket Forclaz 700 Quechua (Decathlon Catalog)
Jacket Forclaz 700 Quechua
(Decathlon Catalog)

Rain shell/Jacket with removable liner:  Quechua Veste Forclaz 700.  “Three in one” jacket:  waterproof, breathable and ventilated. Has a removable quilted inner jacket.  My intention is to use this jacket as wind shell, raincoat with hood, and jacket in one item.  My backpack has a rain cover so I can avoid a flopping poncho to cover my pack.  Since we are starting at the end of August, I elected to leave the quilted liner at home.  If needed, I plan pick up a fleece jacket in Galicia when we approach the coast at the start of October rather than possibly carry the jacket liner for weeks without using it.  We will see if that’s turns out to be a good decision.  I also decided not to carry rain pants.  From Decathlon.

I liked the jacket, but under the backpack’s straps it retained a lot of heat.  From watching other pilgrim’s I know I would not have liked a poncho flapping in the wind.  I never felt I needed rain pants, and the jacket – without its liner – was plenty warm the few times I needed a jacket.  I did like the feel and  flexibility of Tracy’s jacket more, mine was noticeably stiffer.  I never used the hood, using my hat to ward off the rain.

Alan wearing Tilley T5MO  Hat
Alan wearing Tilley T5MO Hat

Hat|  Tilley T5MO Organic Cotton AIRFLO Hat.  I like a hat with a brim that can serve as a sun hat and can also double as a rain hat.  The hat is rated at UPF 50+ for sun protection and is water-resistant.  I’ve had great luck with Canadian-made Tilley hats in the past.  Tilley hats are well made and they are nearly indestructible.  I had to special order out of the UK to get the model I wanted because the choices in sun hats at Decathlon was so mediocre.  From Village Hats.

Loved my hat. I wore it everyday.  It was great in the sun, great in the rain.  I was perfect for my needs.  So glad I went with the Tilley instead of those terrible floppy hats at Decathlon or a baseball cap. 

On Person:

Ray-Ban Wayfarer, Seiko Black Monster, Hazard 4 Case
Ray-Ban Wayfarer, Seiko Black Monster, Hazard 4 Case

Sunglasses|  Ray-Ban Original Wayfarer sunglasses with prescription, polarized lenses with Chums glasses strap and a Hazard 4 Sub-Pod hard case.  I trade out my regular prescription eyeglasses with the sunglasses as the conditions warrants.

I wore my sunglasses nearly every day. I think the dark polarized lenses were a great call with so much time outdoors.  The hard case was useful and I never worried about my glasses getting crushed in my pack.

Watch|  Seiko “Black Monster” Automatic Watch.  Waterproof, self-winding with no battery, day and date indicator.

I constantly used my watch.  There would be church services, restaurant openings, and other times where having the watch was needed.  The “glow in the dark” function was important for the albergue – no watch light required.  The day-date function was helpful as it’s easy to lose track of time in the low-tech world of the Camino. 

Black Diamond 2012 Syncline Trekking Poles
Black Diamond 2012 Syncline Trekking Poles

Trekking Poles|  Pair, Black Diamond 2012 Syncline Trekking Poles with Quechua Nordic Hiking tips.  With being 6’04” I liked that the poles adjust up to 57″ (145 cm)  for long downhill stretches of trail.  I will also carry Quechua Nordic tips to have the option to cover the tips in places where the tip could damage the floor.    The pair weighs 1 lb 4 oz (580 g) with a collapsed length of a longish 38 in ( 96.5 cm.)  (Tracy’s trekking poles are “three-part” and collapse to a much more compact length.)  I’ve used a hiking stick in my youth, but trekking poles will be a new experience for me.  Experts say you can shift up to 25% of your weight to the poles, there’s that and the fact I’m just clumsy.  The poles may prevent a fall and injury too.  From Decathlon.

I never used trekking poles previously, but I am now the biggest fan.  I can’t guess how many time the poles saved me from a fall.  I do believe there is that weight transfer of the pack to the poles.  The trekking poles were an absolute must.  The only thing I would have done differently is get a 3-section rather than 2-section set of poles that would collapse into a smaller package.

Backpack:

Backpack Forclaz 40 Air Quechua (Decathlon Catalog)
Backpack Forclaz 40 Air Quechua
(Decathlon Catalog)

Backpack|  Quechua ac à Dos Forclaz 40 Air.  We wanted to travel as light as possible and wanted smaller backpack to enforce the limits of what we could carry with us.  However, with being 6’04” I wanted a bag with sufficient length to let me use the hip belt to help carry some of the weight.  With the 40 Air I believe I achieved those goals with having 41 litres of capacity,  3.5 pounds (1550 grams) total weight, with length adjustable shoulder straps.  The “Air” in the description is the mesh back to allow extra air flow and cooling.  A rain cover is supplied to keep the bag’s contents dry.  From Decathlon.

This pack was perfect for me.  The absolute right size, comfortable, I liked the “dry cool” webbing in the back, it was lightweight and everything stayed dry. I am so glad I didn’t have an older (and heavier) pack available so that had to buy one of the new high-tech packs. For comfort and fit the high-tech packs are the way to go.

Quechua Sac de Couchage Rando 15°C Light XL
Quechua Sac de Couchage Rando 15°C Light XL

Sleeping Bag|  Quechua Sac de Couchage Rando 15°C Light XL.  There is tons of debate in online Camino forums as to whether to bring a sleeping bag, or just a sleeping bag liner, or simply use blankets provided at the albergues.  Tracy and I selected light sleeping bags with matching left and right zippers that allows us to zip the bags together or use separately.  The lightweight sleeping bags have a 60 degree F. (15 degree C) comfort rating  and weigh about 1.7 pounds (760 grams) each.  From Decathlon.

Perfect for the trip.  While Tracy would have been happy with a sleeping bag liner, this was just warm enough for me on cool night and I slept on the top on warm nights.
Quechua Sandale Arpenaz 50 (Decathlon Catalog)
Quechua Sandale Arpenaz 50
(Decathlon Catalog)

Sandals|  Quechua Sandale Arpenaz 50.  After the day’s hike I wanted a lightweight option to allow me to get out of my boots.  These 1.3 pound (600 gram) sandals should offer a needed relief for my feet at the end of the hiking day.  I could have gone lighter with simple “flip-flops,” but I liked that there is some arch support in the sandals.  From Decathlon.

This was my BIGGEST mistake, I originally wanted some Teva-type hiking scandals which weren’t immediately available here.  I bought this inexpensive pair of sandals for around the albergue.  Never should have done that.  At the end of the day I looked forward to taking my boots off, but these sandals were so lacking in arch support that my boots were more comfortable.  We also didn’t realize how much walking (sightseeing, restaurants, shopping) would happen at the end of the day.  In hindsight I would have special ordered some sport sandals with substantial arch support or even carried the extra weight of athletic shoes.

Camera, iPhone, batteries, and chargers
Camera, iPhone, batteries, and chargers

Camera|  Olympus TG-820 Tough 12 MP Digital Camera , 5x Wide Optical Zoom, with extra battery and charger.  Ask anyone, I am a huge camera and photography guy, however I am embracing the fact I need to minimize weight and that I am performing a spiritual pilgrimage.  I am reverting to the basics of my earlier years of shooting a film camera and planning to carefully select meaningful images rather than shooting absolutely everything.  The DSLR camera is staying home this trip and I am using “rangefinder-style” camera techniques.

Great camera, but 90% of my photos were taken with the iPhone.  It was just faster and easier and I could upload photos to FaceBook.  In hindsight I wonder if I would bring it again.

iPhone and charger| I do not have a phone or data plan for Spain, but I intend to use the iPhone as a “palm top computer” when free Wi-Fi in available to check e-mail, post our progress and photos online.

This was a surprise, we carried the phones as a last minute addition and then used the phones as camera and wi-fi “mini tablet” to update on FaceBook and post photos.  We had access to wi-fi every night but two.  I think if I had known I would have brought an iPad mini and live blogged our progress on the Camino. 

Guidebooks and Streamlight Stylus Pro LED Flashlight
Guidebooks and Streamlight Stylus Pro LED Flashlight

Flashlight|  Streamlight Stylus Pro LED Flashlight.  A 5.3″ x .6″ (134 x 15 mm) mini flashlight weighting 1.64 oz (46.9 g) with 48 lumens  output and 6.25 hours runtime powered by two “AAA” alkaline batteries.  Most people in the Camino forum say that a flashlight is not necessary, but I wanted a light in the event of a long hiking day.  From LA Police Gear

Useful the few times we needed it (we were not part of the “up at 4:30 am stumbling through the albergue waking everyone up with their headlamps” pilgrims.)  For the few instances it was worthwhile, but if we had no flashlight we would not have suffered. 

Guidebooks|  A Pilgrim’s Guide To The Camino de Santiago, St. Jean – Roncesvalles – Santiago and A Pilgrim’s Guide to the Camino Finisterre, Santiago – Finisterre – Muxia by John Brierley.  Very comprehensive English language guide with directions, maps, history, advice, and even spiritual insights.   A marked difference from the amateurish and embarrassingly poorly edited Confraternity of Saint James’ Pilgrim Guide to Spain – 1 Camino France’ 2013 and the amateurish, poorly illustrated, and outdated Confraternity of Saint James’ Pilgrim Guides to Spain 3 Finisterre 2009.  There is also discussions in the Camino Forum about whether or not a guidebook is even needed on the well-marked Camiño Francés trails.  That’s a reasonable consideration since these two guidebooks weight about one pound total. There is a wonderfully concise Camino France’ “.pdf” guide you can download at  http://www.caminoguide.net/ to save weight and space over carrying a guidebook.

We actually met people without guidebooks,  apparently it was to either save weight or “we were told we wouldn’t need one.”  Those people were always at a disadvantage to planning their nest day’s route and several pilgrims mistakenly took a wrong branch of the trail or didn’t know where next albergue might be.  A good guidebook is essential.  

Klean Kateen
Klean Kateen
 –Water bottle|  A single Klean Kanteen  27 ounce (800 ml) capacity stainless steel water bottle.  Empty weight of the bottles is 8 ounces (227 grams.)  The filled bottle weighs 35 ounces – 1027 grams.  Many people in the discussion forums advocate just buying commercially available bottled water and refilling those thin bottles or using a bladder system like a CamelBak or Platypus saving at more than half the weight of the metal bottles.

This worked well for me.  There were I few long stretches of trails without fonts and I supplemented with buying a bottle of water and reusing the bottle for those instances.

-Knife and small cutting board | I have a small knife with a small, thin cutting board that will double as a shared plate for Tracy and I for picnic lunches of sausage, salami, cheese, bread, and fruit.

This was a surprisingly good idea that made picnic lunches much easier.  

Personal Items:

Passport, Camino credencial, cash, credit cards
Passport, Camino credencial, cash, credit cards

Passport, Camino credencial, cash, credit cards

It was easy to purchase a Camino credential in Saint Jean Peid-de-Port, so pre-purchasing a credential isn’t necessary.  My non-“Chip and Pin” ATM card and American Express card worked well on the trip.

Rosary

Tucked away and traveled well.

Toothbrush, toothpaste, anti-perspirant, disposable razor, fingernail/toenails clipper

All essentials, and we were able to replace items easily to get along the way.

Lush Shampoo Bar
Lush Shampoo Bar

Shampoo, soap|  Lush brand “Squeaky Green” shampoo bar and carrier tin.  I’m using the shampoo bar as both shampoo and body wash.  From Lush Comestics, UK.  The idea of a shampoo bar came from YouTube blogger Lindsey Cowie at http://www.youtube.com/user/bathedinridicule.

Great idea, didn’t work.  The bar dissolves four times faster than advertised.  I ended up using a combination shampoo/body wash purchased in an albergue.  I’d skip the shampoo bar in the future.

Sun block

Important to have, I used it nearly everyday.  No sunburns.

First aid kit with blister treatments, antiseptic, anti-diarrhea, pain pills, and lip balm

Compeed blister bandages are amazing and a MUST carry.  The pain killers were very much appreciated.  We never had call to use the anti-diarrhea meds.

Safety pins | For use as safety pins, for popping blisters, and serving as clothes pins.

Great tools, I should have carried at least a dozen with a dozen “baby diaper” sized.

Toilet Paper

This was a good call.  Amazing how often an albergue’s rest room would run out, especially the women’s restrooms.

Hair brush

Moleskine Reporter Notebook (Moleskine Catalog)
Moleskine Reporter Notebook
(Moleskine Catalog)

Moleskine ruled reporter’s notebook and two pens.  | 3.5″ x 5.5″ (9 x 14 cm).  I have never done real well with daily journaling, but I wanted to try to take comprehensive notes so I can write detailed posts of our experiences on the trail after we return.

Perfect for notes.  Glad I brought two pens since I lost one along the way.

Serviette randonnée Quechua
Serviette randonnée Quechua

Travel towel|  Quechua Serviette randonnée.  Compact  50″ x 16.5″ (120 cm x 42 cm) 3.7 ounce (106 grams) fast drying, microfiber towel.  From Decathlon

Loved this towel, very compact and absorbent, and always dry by the morning.  I wish I had clothes made out of this material.  Absolutely amazing. 

Additional items not previously mentioned

Laundry Soap Sheet– We stumbled into these at the grocery store in Carcassonne, sheets of laundry soap that were lightweight and stored easily in my backpack, they worked well and dissolved instantly.

Organization Cubes- Tracy used our old travel organization cubes from eBags.com – nylon mesh bags to contain our gear in an organized way.  It made life so much easier – in a crowded dimly light albergue dormitory to have “everything has a place and everything in it’s place” so you never forgot anything.  I only lost two spares of socks, but we were rushed and couldn’t follow our routine that morning because Tracy’s phone was stolen and we needed to get to an wifi zone to change passwords for important accounts.

Alan’s backpack at departure weighed in at 20.5 pounds (9.3 kilograms)

Thank goodness for a lightweight pack.  It is totally different carrying a backpack – day in, day out/ week after week – If I had to do it over, I would leave one pair of pants here and get sport sandals with good arch support.  My top 5 favorite items were 1.) my Tilley Hat, 2.) my trekking poles, 3.) my sunglasses, 4.) my iPhone camera, and 5.) travel towel (Thank you Douglas Adam, you are right!)

TRACY’S EQUIPMENT LIST

CLOTHING

 Forclaz 500 Novadry – Brown Hiking Boot by Quechua

Forclaz 500 Novadry – Brown Hiking Boot by Quechua

ShoesForclaz 500 Novadry – Brown Hiking Boot by Quechua

“For regular use while hiking in all-weather on trails with moderate gradients. Waterproof and breathable. Featuring numerous reinforced areas and a two-hook fastening system.” I wanted a boot rather than a trail shoe. Not knowing which conditions we’ll be facing in September and October, an all-weather boot made sense and I tend to twist ankles and knees so having additional support was also important. These boots are lightweight (they weigh less than my walking shoes). We bought them about 10 weeks before we were planning to leave on our Camino and have had plenty of time to break them in. I even really liked the color.

These boots were amazing, my feet stayed dry through all kinds of weather. I added some Dr. Scholl’s inserts for heel comfort before we left and for most days it really helped. However, in the beginning of our trek or any day after about 20 kilometers my feet didn’t hold up as well as the shoes.

Forclaz 300 Men's hiking jacket, Blue/Red by Quechua
Forclaz 300 Men’s hiking jacket, Blue/Red by Quechua

 Jacket | Forclaz 300 Men’s hiking jacket, Blue/Red by Quechua

I selected a men’s hiking jacket since the women’s jackets didn’t meet the same specs for rain and ventilation. These jackets are designed for long hikes and can withstand a great deal of rain. It’s also breathable and ventilated.

Although I thankfully didn’t need it often, this jacket was perfect for the two days we had a slight drizzle and the one day we had a downpour for about 25 minutes. I stayed dry and comfortable and the jacket was lightweight and easily rolled up to store in the backpack.

TMH5 Mash-Up Hat by Tilley

TMH5 Mash-Up Hat by Tilley

Hat | TMH5 Mash-Up Hat by Tilley

“This hat is made using recycled yarns from hemp and organic cotton fabrics, each hat has an array of different colors woven into it making each unique. Designed with a medium brim with ¾” ventilation mesh around the crown.” Alan has always liked the Tilley brand hats and I thought that I would like to have something to help block the sun that would be comfortable for all-day wear. We found this one on the US site, but it wasn’t available on the UK site, thankfully a very nice lady at the Tilley UK online store was able to ship one from Canada, then sell it to us after she received it. We were able to avoid a 30% duty tax and I now have my first Tilley hat that isn’t that god-awful greenish-tan color but a beautiful soft grey. I added a black and white polka dot scarf as a hat band so that it doesn’t look like a men’s hat and that I can easily remove to cover my shoulders if we are entering a church.

I can’t say enough about my Tilley hat. I absolutely love the thing. I wore it in rain and sun and it was perfect. I had ordered it slightly larger than suggested so that I could wear my hair up or down. The head straps even made it easy to clip to the backpack when I wasn’t wearing it!

Organic Cotton Capri by Domyos
Organic Cotton Capri by Domyos

Pants | Organic Cotton Capri by Domyos and McKinley convertible pants.

These yoga/pilates capri pants are comfortable, moisture-wicking and breathable. They are also soft, comfy and relatively quick-drying. I can use them as a pajama as well.

While these were comfortable, I ended up only using them as sleep wear, but a light weight, fast dry pair of shorts/capri would have been easier. Cotton just doesn’t line-dry as fast as other fabrics. 

Convertible Hiking Pant by McKinley
Convertible Hiking Pant by McKinley

The McKinley hiking pant converts to a short with zip off legs and is lightweight and fast drying. Since we’re looking at a wear-one, wash-one approach, I like the idea of having two pair of pants that have a range of usefulness – shorts, capris, long pants – this should be enough for both hot and cold days.

The McKinley hiking pant was the one I wore all day, every day. Easy to convert to shorts, lightweight and super, fast drying so cleaning them each day was quick and easy. But I need a new pair — after six weeks on the Camino this year, they don’t fit anymore!

Forclaz 500 High Socks, Hiking Socks, Light Grey/Green by Quechua
Forclaz 500 High Socks, Hiking Socks, Light Grey/Green by Quechua

Socks | Forclaz 500 High Socks, Hiking Socks, Light Grey/Green by Quechua

While I’ve never really paid much attention to socks, we’ve purchased and have been using these socks for our Camino training. They cost a bit more than I have EVER paid for a couple of pairs of socks, but they are exactly what they claim to be: Lightweight – perfect for summer hikes, Blister Reducing – I have yet to get a blister while wearing them and Breathable – my feet still get warm after 5 miles of hiking, but not nearly as bad as the socks I used before we bought these. I am curious to find out how they handle the Camino. Oddly enough the knitting is different in each part of the sock and each colored area is knitted in a different pattern so that they stay put, move well and have extra padding for the sides of the toes and the heel.

These ended up to be one of my favorite items. I did blister, but only one toe and that had more to do with my foot structure rather than anything else. I even liked wearing a pair to bed as the ribbed arch support massaged them a bit while I was sleeping.

Tops | Assorted

I haven’t really found a particularly great hiking top for women. The men’s shirts have too high of a collar and I have issues with things being around my neck. For comfort and quick dry capability, I selected a couple of tops from the yoga section of Decathlon. Both are by Domyos and are lightweight and moisture wicking. I plan to bring a third top, small strap with shelf bra for sleeping in.

While I hadn’t found any hiking tops and brought yoga wear, my only regret is not looking harder for hiking tops for their fast-dry ability. One of the tops was a cotton-blend and it never really did dry completely unless we were able to find an electric dryer — which wasn’t often, we line-dried things most of the time.

Flipflops | generic style from the grocery store

I wanted something to wear after hiking all day. These are lightweight, fast drying and can be used as a shower shoe if necessary.

These were my biggest mistake, they lasted about two weeks and fell apart, but I hadn’t considered what my feet would feel like after hiking 20 kilometers on variable terrain. I was able to find a nice pair of Teva-like sandals with great arch support and used those for the remainder of the trip. Good footwear is very, very important, especially in the evenings after hiking 15 to 30 kilometers. Shoes without arch support make it harder to keep moving day after day and I believe that my poor choice in footwear contributed to my tired and sore feet for the first two weeks.

HIKING GEAR

Forclaz 30 Air Hiking Backpack, Green by Quechua
Forclaz 30 Air Hiking Backpack, Green by Quechua

Backpack | Forclaz 30 Air Hiking Backpack, Green by Quechua

“For mountain and day hiking in all-weather (hot, rainy, etc.). Weight is distributed between the shoulder straps and belt. A well ventilated back (air cooling label), practical storage (with belt, water bladder and mesh pockets) and rain cover make this a complete hiking backpack. 30 liter volume / weight: 2.3 pounds / full pack dimensions: H 52cm x W 35cm x D 27cm. Load adjuster straps and chest strap. Pockets: 1 inner, 2 outer + mesh pockets, 1 on the belt and pole-carrier.”

After trying on several different sizes and styles, this one fit me the best and didn’t interfere with freedom of movement. We’ve done quite a few training hikes and although I’m still a bit concerned about weight, this pack is extremely comfortable and the ventilated back is very nice. I like the color too.

 This backpack performed perfectly. I love it! I was able to carry everything I needed and still kept cool due to the circulation system. The fit was perfect for my frame and it’s smaller size made minimizing a must which kept the weight from being more than I could comfortably carry. The addition of our organizing cubes (purchased years ago from eBags.com) helped to keep the pack weighted perfectly as well.
Forclaz 500 Light Soft Blue/White by Quechua
Forclaz 500 Light Soft Blue/White by Quechua

Hiking Poles | Forclaz 500 Light Soft Blue/White by Quechua

“Three section pole with a collapsed length of 58cm, maximum extended length of 129 cm. Weight: 230 grams. Foam grip. Lined neoprene adjustable loop. Tungsten carbide tips with summer and winter baskets. I opted for two as I have done little long distance hiking and most of the Camino blogs recommend two if you’re bringing them. I started practicing with them during our Camino training hikes about three weeks prior to departure. The poles have helped with a knee that is still sore from a fall a couple of months ago so I’m assuming that they will be a welcome addition on the trip.

I had some reservations about how much I really needed hiking poles and I almost didn’t bother to purchase them for our trip. That would have been the biggest mistake ever. These ended up to be the MOST IMPORTANT item I brought. They alleviate about 25% of the pack weight, keep your hands from getting too swollen and helped to keep three points of contact with Mother Earth for climbing up and down some pretty amazing hills and mountains. The only time that they were stashed in my pack was when we were on the train to and from home. A total lifesaver! The only thing I would do differently is opt for the slightly more expensive version with the cork grips, some days my hands got very sweaty in the heat and keeping my grip if I were to stumble was a worry.

Compact Hiking Towel, Green by Quechua
Compact Hiking Towel, Green by Quechua

Towel | Compact Hiking Towel, Green by Quechua

While just about any towel would do, this one is a lightweight microfiber that is only 42cm wide and 120cm long and weighs only 106 grams. It even came in it’s own stuff bag making it very easy to pack and carry.

At just 42cm wide and 120cm long it was just enough to get dried off with, but I couldn’t wrap my hair up with it. The best feature was that it would dry in less than an hour even when soaking wet. I might opt for a slightly larger one in the future, but only because I have long hair and it was difficult to wrap it in the towel while dressing.

15° Light Hiking Sleeping Bag, Blue by Quechua
15° Light Hiking Sleeping Bag, Blue by Quechua

Sleeping bag | 15° Light Hiking Sleeping Bag, Blue by Quechua

We opted for a lightweight bag with a right and left zip option. This particular one has a stuff bag that makes it very compact and storable in your pack. Since Kiara will be coming with us we plan to be camping more than most pilgrims since most albergues do not accept dogs in the hostel. Not really knowing what weather we may be facing over nearly 7 weeks of hiking we decided to get one that was not only light to carry but would keep us warm on a chilly night. My favorite thing about this sleeping bag is that it doesn’t have to be rolled up!!

We opted for a lightweight bag with a right and left zip option. However, we rarely got to see each other at night since we were often in bunk beds, Alan on top, me on bottom — I’m afraid of heights! Most often I only used mine as a blanket if I got cold, which wasn’t often. I think I may have done just as well with a sleeping bag liner, which is even lighter weight and should be perfect for the hot Spanish summer.

Forclaz 2L Water Bladder by Quechua
Forclaz 2L Water Bladder by Quechua

Water Bladder | Forclaz 2L Water Bladder by Quechua

Normally I would prefer my regular water bottle with the dual lined walls that keeps water cold for 30 hours in a hot car, but I opted to try a two-liter water bladder since I’m carrying water for both longer distances and for Kiara as well. I don’t have a lot of experience using a bladder but so far it’s been working for our training hikes and once I cleaned it up with some baking soda and fresh lemon juice the water tastes wonderful if just a bit warmer than I prefer, better than the plastic taste it had at first. This will be the heaviest thing in my pack, but when we know for sure that there are fountains on the trail I can carry less and of course it lightens the load as you use it.

It took a while to get used to the bladder, but I really loved having instant and easy access to water. This one held 2 liters and easily slipped into the front pocket of my backpack so that nothing inside the pack got wet.

HYGIENE

Lush Shampoo Bar
Lush Shampoo Bar

Shampoo bar | Irresistible Bliss by Lush      

“A dynamic pink shampoo bar for normal hair. To keep hair looking shiny and full of body, wash with this irresistible bar. The perfume is made with neroli (orange blossom) and jasmine to scent it with incredibly sensual florals throughout the day.” Not that I need to smell good, but I like the idea of a shampoo bar so that I’m not carrying liquids that could get messy in my pack. I have a mini microfiber towel for bathing and storing the shampoo bar, less mess, less weight.

Although Alan didn’t care for this product, I think that it actually worked great, it just didn’t last as long as I had expected. I would recommend buying twice what you think you’ll need and a container to keep it dry.

Silk Hydration Lotion Sunscreen by Hawaiian Tropic
Silk Hydration Lotion Sunscreen by Hawaiian Tropic

Sunblock Silk Hydration Lotion Sunscreen by Hawaiian Tropic

I started out with a bottle of Loreal but it had glitter in it. I’d rather smell like a coconut than sparkle all day. This has an SPF of 30, which is what my everyday makeup has, so it should do the trick.

This was my lifesaver! I had never experienced a Spanish summer and didn’t realize just how much hydration I would actually need. While this did a great job, I still ended up having to pickup an intensive cream lotion by Nivea for my hands and forearms which were very dry and flaky from too much sun and wouldn’t hydrate with just the sunblock.

Baby wipes | store brand

These are the generic store brand from Geant Casino, our local supermarket. We may not have access to a shower daily, but I still like to clean up after a long day of hiking.

Never even opened these!

Daily Hygiene Stuff | Just the everyday basics

Brush/comb/Hair ties/Toothbrush/Toothpaste/Deodorant/Disposable razor.

Thankfully we were able to replenish things like toothpaste, deodorant, shampoo and such when we went through big towns. Six weeks on the road is a long time and we had to bring enough for two — however, we did not realize that there would be places that separated men and women into different dorms or places where the men’s and women’s showers were in different buildings — we only brought one bottle of everything. But not a problem, we still managed to stay clean and fresh!

FIRST AID

Blister care | Compeed-style mix/cushioned bandages

Foot care, foot care, foot care. The single most important thing for our trip will be our feet. Blisters can cause an unexpected delay of several days so taking care of blisters when they start is very important.

Love, love, love the Compeed! I started the Camino with a blister on the back of each heel. One was slightly more sore than the other so I stuck a Compeed on it and left the other one to heal on it’s own. The heel with the Compeed healed faster and without any drying or scabbing, completely amazed by this stuff. But if you cannot find it before your Camino, it’s available at nearly every Farmacia along the way.

Basic care | Nail clippers/Nail file/Tweezers

Foot care is everything on a trip of this length, so I’m taking these along as a precaution so that toes and fingers stay healthy along the way.

These were basic essentials that, while not needed often, were of major importance for healthy feet.

Pain Reliever | store brand

Just a generic we brought from the US. We have no illusions that this trip will be easy, so I’m bringing a small bottle of Aleve-style pain reliever to reduce muscle ache and pain in case the wine doesn’t quite do it!

We used nearly an entire bottle of a store-brand version of Aleve, but those first couple of weeks we found more than one reason to use them, aches and pains in places that never, ever get sore. As a bonus we had some type of pain reliever to offer to others who were also suffering!

PERSONAL

Kiara’s Camino Collar

It is customary for pilgrims to tie a scallop shell on their packs to signify their pilgrimage. While Adam and Liz were here we had gone to Narbonne Plage, a nice beach on the Mediterranean and while there Liz found several small shells. She graciously allowed me to select one for Kiara, I selected the one that reminded me of the caramel stripe on Kiara’s face, and using the natural hole in the top of the shell I added a link and secured it to a faux pearl stretch bracelet to create a Camino Collar for Kiara. This has now been added to the back of my pack in remembrance of the little dog I love so much and who would have enjoyed this trip immensely.

Kiara’s collar made it there and back without damage to the shell. I would get comments from time to time, mostly someone mentioning that it was pretty, but it was important to me and I was glad that it made it all the way and back home in one piece.

Glasses/Notebook/Pens

I rarely journal but thought that this would be a great way to help jog the memory when I return home from 6 to 7 weeks of hiking so that I have a reference for when I create a digital journal/scrapbook with photos and insights of my Camino.

I used these every single day and really enjoyed journaling about our trip. You meet so many new people and go through so many beautiful cities, it’s nice to jot things down so you don’t forget.

Camera and Gear

Nikon AW100 camera
Nikon AW100 camera

–Camera | Nikon AW100

I’ve had this since before we moved. It’s rugged, waterproof (to 10 meters/33 feet), shockproof (to 1.5 meters/5 feet), freezeproof (to 14 degrees Farenheit). It is 16 megapixel, 5x zoom, can record full HD video and even has GPS with electronic compass. It’s basically perfect for any outdoor adventure.

While a really great camera, the only time I used it was after my iPhone was stolen. I thought I would use it far more than I actually did and won’t bother to bring it on my next hike, there are easier options available for a long trip like that one.

–Gear | Batteries/SD cards/Charger

I have three batteries, several SD cards (two 32GB, one 16GB, one 4GB and one 1GB) and a lightweight battery charger (with adaptor) that will make up the balance of my camera gear.

I  NEVER even unpacked them!

iPhone and charger

Just for staying in touch and updates to our progress. We do not have a data plan for the iPhones in France, but free wifi allows us to post updates to Facebook and our blog along the way. I haven’t decided whether or not this will make the final cut, Alan is planning to bring his and he can handle the updates and posts with his. I’m wondering if I could spend 7 weeks completely unplugged . . . hmmm. Since the death of my computer I’ve been given a rare opportunity to spend time without a lot of social networking, it may be a possibility.

This was the best option for photos on the fly. I used it more often because of the flexibility of posting photos to friends and family while on the Camino . . . at least until it was stolen!

IDENTIFICATION

Passport

Best to have with me, just in case! Rarely have had to show it, but my driver’s license won’t mean anything to French or Spanish authorities.

We brought them just in case we might need them, but turns out that most albergues ask for your passport number when checking you in, so it turned out to be a smart choice.

 Camino Credentials

This is a must for the Camino, it will need to be stored in a ziplock bag within easy reach, especially the last 100 kilometers, as it will need to be stamped twice daily. I am expecting to have more than one by the time we are finished — at least two for the Camino Frances, one for Finisterre and/or Muxia.

Managed to get all the way there with just one credential, it’s nearly full of stamps and is a nice souvenir of the trip. Additional ones are available along the way for one to two euro.

 ID

Drivers’ license, passport card, insurance ID.

I brought my Drivers’ license, passport card, and insurance ID and didn’t need any of them. My passport and Camino credential were all the identification I needed.

 Insurance Info

When we moved out of the country we purchased a year-long travel insurance that covers us wherever we travel. For most emergencies it has better coverage than our US medical insurance, so we’re bringing along the account information and contact numbers just in case we have an emergency.

Didn’t need this either — even if we had gotten ill it’s just easier to go to a pharmacist and tell them your symptoms and have him dispense the right medications — simple and easy and no doctor visit needed.

 Cards

This is really just as a backup, since Alan will have his – but we’d rather not be far from home without access to any of our bank accounts.

It was surprisingly easy to find ATM machines and we rarely charged anything other than a hotel room if the albergue was full, which happened only once.

Salami and Fruit

These two lunch staples will be easy to carry, easy to prepare, and easy to replace so we plan to keep a small amount with us for lunches while we hike. Most of our other meals will be available at cafes, bars and albergues along the way.

We managed more than a few lunches and a dinner or two, with green apples and chorizo and a few sweet rolls that we found in the local markets. Easy to bring along and the green apples stayed unbruised far longer than any other fruit.

Ziplock bags

Just a couple for keeping things contained and dry. I plan to rinse and reuse them for the trip so only taking a couple.

Brought a couple of extras, but never needed them. 

Tracy’s backpack weighed in at  15.4 pounds (7 kilograms.)

This was the perfect weight for me. During our initial training for the Camino, I had one day when my pack was at 20 pounds, the additional weight put so much pressure on my hips that I couldn’t get up on my own the next day. In addition to finding the right balance the use of the hiking poles was great at alleviating some of the weight. While some days I got that lighter-than-air feeling after taking it off, most days I didn’t notice it at all. Balance, for me this trip was all about balance.

Camino de Santiago Preparations – Equipment Lists

The first question that will occur to you after you read our Camino equipment lists is, “Do Tracy and Alan own stock in Decathlon and Quechua products?”

The answer is, “No,” but when we minimized to move to France, we downsized enough personal possessions that we arrived in France with only one checked bag and our carry-on.  We needed to equip ourselves for the Camino from scratch.

The French “Sports Superstore” Decathlon provided almost complete “one stop shopping” to put our Camino gear together.  Had we been in the US  our equipment list would have contained more REI, Lowe Alpine, and North Face products.  Decathlon has a store branch in Carcassonne and it is extremely well stocked with quality equipment and has a very helpful staff who were patient with my very basic command of French and my less than effective pantomime and sign language.  (How does one pantomime “a small stuff bag?”)  We were very impressed with the quality of the French outdoor equipment manufacturer, Quechua’s, affordable products.

The general rule we read from pilgrims that have successfully completed the Camino is to limit your pack’s weight to about 10% of your body weight but no more than 20-25 pounds (10-12 kilograms.)  We have been doing our best to reach that goal.  There are lots of Camino equipment lists available on the Internet and we have tried to learn from other people’s experiences and recommendations.  While a person may be able to carry more, carrying excessive weight – week after week – diminished many pilgrims’ enjoyment of the Camino and increased their chance of injury.  We have read the experiences of many Pilgrims abandoning or mailing home non-essential gear soon after starting their treks.  We are trying to start as minimal as possible in the first place.

Our equipment lists radically changed after our two-pound Chihuahua, Kiara, suddenly passed away two weeks before we depart.  We were planning to bring her with us on the Camino with additional gear including a tent in the event an albergue did not allow dogs.  Our understanding was that the majority of albergues do not allow animals.  Very sadly, Kiara is now joining us only in spirit for our Camino.

It is now one day out from our departure on the Camino.  We have packed and weighed our backpacks, discarded several more items, distributed shared gear, and finalized our equipment lists.

After we return from the Camino, we plan to post our critique about our equipment and detail what we liked, disliked, should have brought, and should have left at home.

So what gear are we taking on a 500 mile pilgrimage across the entire width of Spain?

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ALAN’S EQUIPMENT LIST

Clothing from the ground up:

Lightweight boots|  Quechua Chaussures Randonnée Homme Forclaz 500.  There are a lot of advocates for using running shoes and trail running shoes on the Camino on the Camino Forums, but since I’ve sprained my ankles numerous times, I wanted the ankle support of a boot.  These are waterproof, breathable, and about 2.23 pounds (1000 grams.)  We purchased boots early to thoroughly break the boots in before we arrive in Saint Jean-Pied-de-Port to start our Camino.  From Decathlon.

Tracy's boot over the scallop shell sign marking the Camino
Tracy’s boot over the scallop shell sign marking the Camino

Socks|  Four pairs, Quechua Chaussette Forclaz 500 High.  I was very skeptical of “High Tech” socks, but I wanted fast drying and moisture wicking socks and figured “It can’t hurt.”  This trip is “all about taking care of your feet.”  I’m planning to use the “Wear one, Wash one” method to keep weight and bulk down (with second pair if I need a mid-day sock change – “Wear two, Wash two”)   From Decathlon.

Chaussette Forclaz 500 High Quechua (From Decathlon Catalog)
Chaussette Forclaz 500 High Quechua
(From Decathlon Catalog)

Underwear|  Synthetic fabric, fast drying and moisture wicking.  From Decathlon

Pants|  Two pairs, Quechua Forclaz 100 Modul Pants  (“Wear one, Wash one.”)  These are extremely lightweight synthetic fabric pants that are abrasion and tear resistant with water and stain resistance.  The pants allow an options to convert them into shorts by “zipping” off the legs (although I’m not really a “shorts” kind of guy.)  I wanted fast drying pants that would be comfortable in the heat.  Originally I was going wear the Blackhawk Tactical-NonTactical (TNT) pants that I had brought from the States.  They are designed for military/law enforcement contractors serving in the Middle East.  However, I have lost a fair amount of weight since moving to France and Tracy was concerned that the already loose pants wouldn’t fit at all by the end of the Camino.  From Decathlon.

Quechua Forclaz 100 Modul Pants
Quechua Forclaz 100 Modul Pants

Belt|  5.11 Tactical TDU nylon webbing belt – 1 1/2″ with Plastic Buckle.  Simple, lightweight, flat profile under my backpack’s waist belt.  Unlike a leather belt, this belt is fast drying if it gets wet.  From LA Police Gear.

F.11 TDU Belt (5.11 Tactical Catalog)
F.11 TDU Belt
(5.11 Tactical Catalog)

Shirts|  Two short sleeve, one long sleeve,  Quechua T-shirt TechFRESH 100.  Lightweight, fast drying, and wicking t-shirts.   “Wear one, Wash one” with an optional long sleeve shirt for sun or insect protection and greater warmth.   From Decathlon.

Quechua T-shirt TechFRESH 100 (Decathlon Catalog)
Quechua T-shirt TechFRESH 100
(Decathlon Catalog)

Bandanas|  Two bandanas, mainly intended to protect my neck on sunny days because all my shirts are all collar-less.

Rain shell/Jacket with removable liner:  Quechua Veste Forclaz 700.  “Three in one” jacket:  waterproof, breathable and ventilated. Has a removable quilted inner jacket.  My intention is to use this jacket as wind shell, raincoat with hood, and jacket in one item.  My backpack has a rain cover so I can avoid a flopping poncho to cover my pack.  Since we are starting at the end of August, I elected to leave the quilted liner at home.  If needed, I plan pick up a fleece jacket in Galicia when we approach the coast at the start of October rather than possibly carry the jacket liner for weeks without using it.  We will see if that’s turns out to be a good decision.  I also decided not to carry rain pants.  From Decathlon.

Jacket Forclaz 700 Quechua (Decathlon Catalog)
Jacket Forclaz 700 Quechua
(Decathlon Catalog)

Hat|  Tilley T5MO Organic Cotton AIRFLO Hat.  I like a hat with a brim that can serve as a sun hat and can also double as a rain hat.  The hat is rated at UPF 50+ for sun protection and is water-resistant.  I’ve had great luck with Canadian-made Tilley hats in the past.  Tilley hats are well made and they are nearly indestructible.  I had to special order out of the UK to get the model I wanted because the choices in sun hats at Decathlon was so mediocre.  From Village Hats.

Alan wearing Tilley T5MO  Hat
Alan wearing Tilley T5MO Hat

On Person:

Sunglasses|  Ray-Ban Original Wayfarer sunglasses with prescription, polarized lenses with Chums glasses strap and a Hazard 4 Sub-Pod hard case.  I trade out my regular prescription eyeglasses with the sunglasses as the conditions warrants.

Watch|  Seiko “Black Monster” Automatic Watch.  Waterproof, self-winding with no battery, day and date indicator.

Ray-Ban Wayfarer, Seiko Black Monster, Hazard 4 Case
Ray-Ban Wayfarer, Seiko Black Monster, Hazard 4 Case

Trekking Poles|  Pair, Black Diamond 2012 Syncline Trekking Poles with Quechua Nordic Hiking tips.  With being 6’04” I liked that the poles adjust up to 57″ (145 cm)  for long downhill stretches of trail.  I will also carry Quechua Nordic tips to have the option to cover the tips in places where the tip could damage the floor.    The pair weighs 1 lb 4 oz (580 g) with a collapsed length of a longish 38 in ( 96.5 cm.)  (Tracy’s trekking poles are “three-part” and collapse to a much more compact length.)  I’ve used a hiking stick in my youth, but trekking poles will be a new experience for me.  Experts say you can shift up to 25% of your weight to the poles, there’s that and the fact I’m just clumsy.  The poles may prevent a fall and injury too.  From Decathlon.

Black Diamond 2012 Syncline Trekking Poles
Black Diamond 2012 Syncline Trekking Poles

Backpack:

Backpack|  Quechua ac à Dos Forclaz 40 Air.  We wanted to travel as light as possible and wanted smaller backpack to enforce the limits of what we could carry with us.  However, with being 6’04” I wanted a bag with sufficient length to let me use the hip belt to help carry some of the weight.  With the 40 Air I believe I achieved those goals with having 41 litres of capacity,  3.5 pounds (1550 grams) total weight, with length adjustable shoulder straps.  The “Air” in the description is the mesh back to allow extra air flow and cooling.  A rain cover is supplied to keep the bag’s contents dry.  From Decathlon.

Backpack Forclaz 40 Air Quechua (Decathlon Catalog)
Backpack Forclaz 40 Air Quechua
(Decathlon Catalog)

Sleeping Bag|  Quechua Sac de Couchage Rando 15°C Light XL.  There is tons of debate in online Camino forums as to whether to bring a sleeping bag, or just a sleeping bag liner, or simply use blankets provided at the albergues.  Tracy and I selected light sleeping bags with matching left and right zippers that allows us to zip the bags together or use separately.  The lightweight sleeping bags have a 60 degree F. (15 degree C) comfort rating  and weigh about 1.7 pounds (760 grams) each.  From Decathlon.

Quechua Sac de Couchage Rando 15°C Light XL
Quechua Sac de Couchage Rando 15°C Light XL

Sandals|  Quechua Sandale Arpenaz 50.  After the day’s hike I wanted a lightweight option to allow me to get out of my boots.  These 1.3 pound (600 gram) sandals should offer a needed relief for my feet at the end of the hiking day.  I could have gone lighter with simple “flip-flops,” but I liked that there is some arch support in the sandals.  From Decathlon.

Quechua Sandale Arpenaz 50 (Decathlon Catalog)
Quechua Sandale Arpenaz 50
(Decathlon Catalog)

Camera|  Olympus TG-820 Tough 12 MP Digital Camera , 5x Wide Optical Zoom, with extra battery and charger.  Ask anyone, I am a huge camera and photography guy, however I am embracing the fact I need to minimize weight and that I am performing a spiritual pilgrimage.  I am reverting to the basics of my earlier years of shooting a film camera and planning to carefully select meaningful images rather than shooting absolutely everything.  The DSLR camera is staying home this trip and I am using “rangefinder-style” camera techniques.

iPhone and charger| I do not have a phone or data plan for Spain, but I intend to use the iPhone as a “palm top computer” when free Wi-Fi in available to check e-mail, post our progress and photos online.

Camera, iPhone, batteries, and chargers
Camera, iPhone, batteries, and chargers

Flashlight|  Streamlight Stylus Pro LED Flashlight.  A 5.3″ x .6″ (134 x 15 mm) mini flashlight weighting 1.64 oz (46.9 g) with 48 lumens  output and 6.25 hours runtime powered by two “AAA” alkaline batteries.  Most people in the Camino forum say that a flashlight is not necessary, but I wanted a light in the event of a long hiking day.  From LA Police Gear

Guidebooks|  A Pilgrim’s Guide To The Camino de Santiago, St. Jean – Roncesvalles – Santiago and A Pilgrim’s Guide to the Camino Finisterre, Santiago – Finisterre – Muxia by John Brierley.  Very comprehensive English language guide with directions, maps, history, advice, and even spiritual insights.   A marked difference from the amateurish and embarrassingly poorly edited Confraternity of Saint James’ Pilgrim Guide to Spain – 1 Camino France’ 2013 and the amateurish, poorly illustrated, and outdated Confraternity of Saint James’ Pilgrim Guides to Spain 3 Finisterre 2009.  There is also discussions in the Camino Forum about whether or not a guidebook is even needed on the well-marked Camiño Francés trails.  That’s a reasonable consideration since these two guidebooks weight about one pound total. There is a wonderfully concise Camino France’ “.pdf” guide you can download at http://www.caminoguide.net/ to save weight and space over carrying a guidebook.

Guidebooks and Streamlight Stylus Pro LED Flashlight
Guidebooks and Streamlight Stylus Pro LED Flashlight

Water bottle|  A single Klean Kanteen  27 ounce (800 ml) capacity stainless steel water bottle.  Empty weight of the bottles is 8 ounces (227 grams.)  The filled bottle weighs 35 ounces – 1027 grams.  Many people in the discussion forums advocate just buying commercially available bottled water and refilling those thin bottles or using a bladder system like a CamelBak or Platypus saving at more than half the weight of the metal bottles.

Klean Kateen
Klean Kateen

-Knife and small cutting board | I have a small knife with a small, thin cutting board that will double as a shared plate for Tracy and I for picnic lunches of sausage, salami, cheese, bread, and fruit.

Personal Items:

Passport, Camino credencial, cash, credit cards

Passport, Camino credencial, cash, credit cards
Passport, Camino credencial, cash, credit cards

Rosary

Toothbrush, toothpaste, antiperspirant, disposable razor, fingernail/toenails clipper

Shampoo, soap|  Lush brand “Squeaky Green” shampoo bar and carrier tin.  I’m using the shampoo bar as both shampoo and body wash.  From Lush Comestics, UK.  The idea of a shampoo bar came from YouTube blogger Lindsey Cowie at http://www.youtube.com/user/bathedinridicule.

Lush Shampoo Bar
Lush Shampoo Bar

Sun block

First aid kit with blister treatments, antiseptic, anti-diarrhea, pain pills, and lip balm

Safety pins | For use as safety pins, for popping blisters, and serving as clothes pins.

Toilet Paper

Hair brush

Moleskine ruled reporter’s notebook and two pens.  | 3.5″ x 5.5″ (9 x 14 cm).  I have never done real well with daily journaling, but I wanted to try to take comprehensive notes so I can write detailed posts of our experiences on the trail after we return.

Moleskine Reporter Notebook (Moleskine Catalog)
Moleskine Reporter Notebook
(Moleskine Catalog)

Travel towel|  Quechua Serviette randonnée.  Compact  50″ x 16.5″ (120 cm x 42 cm) 3.7 ounce (106 grams) fast drying, microfiber towel.  From Decathlon

Serviette randonnée Quechua
Serviette randonnée Quechua

My backpack at departure weighed in at 20.5 pounds (9.3 kilograms)

=====================================================================================

TRACY’S EQUIPMENT LIST

CLOTHING

 ShoesForclaz 500 Novadry – Brown Hiking Boot by Quechua

“For regular use while hiking in all-weather on trails with moderate gradients. Waterproof and breathable. Featuring numerous reinforced areas and a two-hook fastening system.” I wanted a boot rather than a trail shoe. Not knowing which conditions we’ll be facing in September and October, an all-weather boot made sense and I tend to twist ankles and knees so having additional support was also important. These boots are lightweight (they weigh less than my walking shoes). We bought them about 10 weeks before we were planning to leave on our Camino and have had plenty of time to break them in. I even really liked the color.

Forclaz 500 Novadry – Brown Hiking Boot by Quechua
Forclaz 500 Novadry – Brown Hiking Boot by Quechua

 JacketForclaz 300 Men’s hiking jacket, Blue/Red by Quechua

I selected a men’s hiking jacket since the women’s jackets didn’t meet the same specs for rain and ventilation. These jackets are designed for long hikes and can withstand a great deal of rain. It’s also breathable and ventilated.

Forclaz 300 Men's hiking jacket, Blue/Red by Quechua
Forclaz 300 Men’s hiking jacket, Blue/Red by Quechua

HatTMH5 Mash-Up Hat by Tilley

“This hat is made using recycled yarns from hemp and organic cotton fabrics, each hat has an array of different colors woven into it making each unique. Designed with a medium brim with ¾” ventilation mesh around the crown.” Alan has always liked the Tilley brand hats and I thought that I would like to have something to help block the sun that would be comfortable for all-day wear. We found this one on the US site, but it wasn’t available on the UK site, thankfully a very nice lady at the Tilley UK online store was able to ship one from Canada, then sell it to us after she received it. We were able to avoid a 30% duty tax and I now have my first Tilley hat that isn’t that god-awful greenish-tan color but a beautiful soft grey. I added a black and white polka dot scarf as a hat band so that it doesn’t look like a men’s hat and that I can easily remove to cover my shoulders if we are entering a church.

TMH5 Mash-Up Hat by Tilley
TMH5 Mash-Up Hat by Tilley

PantsOrganic Cotton Capri by Domyos and McKinley convertible pants.

These yoga/pilates capri pants are comfortable, moisture-wicking and breathable. They are also soft, comfy and relatively quick-drying. I can use them as a pajama as well.

Organic Cotton Capri by Domyos
Organic Cotton Capri by Domyos

The McKinley hiking pant converts to a short with zip off legs and is lightweight and fast drying. Since we’re looking at a wear-one, wash-one approach, I like the idea of having two pair of pants that have a range of usefulness – shorts, capris, long pants – this should be enough for both hot and cold days.

Convertible Hiking Pant by McKinley
Convertible Hiking Pant by McKinley

SocksForclaz 500 High Socks, Hiking Socks, Light Grey/Green by Quechua

While I’ve never really paid much attention to socks, we’ve purchased and have been using these socks for our Camino training. They cost a bit more than I have EVER paid for a couple of pairs of socks, but they are exactly what they claim to be: Lightweight – perfect for summer hikes, Blister Reducing – I have yet to get a blister while wearing them and Breathable – my feet still get warm after 5 miles of hiking, but not nearly as bad as the socks I used before we bought these. I am curious to find out how they handle the Camino. Oddly enough the knitting is different in each part of the sock and each colored area is knitted in a different pattern so that they stay put, move well and have extra padding for the sides of the toes and the heel.

Forclaz 500 High Socks, Hiking Socks, Light Grey/Green by Quechua
Forclaz 500 High Socks, Hiking Socks, Light Grey/Green by Quechua

Tops | Assorted

I haven’t really found a particularly great hiking top for women. The men’s shirts have too high of a collar and I have issues with things being around my neck. For comfort and quick dry capability, I selected a couple of tops from the yoga section of Decathlon. Both are by Domyos and are lightweight and moisture wicking. I plan to bring a third top, small strap with shelf bra for sleeping in.

Flipflops | generic style from the grocery store

I wanted something to wear after hiking all day. These are lightweight, fast drying and can be used as a shower shoe if necessary.

HIKING GEAR

BackpackForclaz 30 Air Hiking Backpack, Green by Quechua

“For mountain and day hiking in all-weather (hot, rainy, etc.). Weight is distributed between the shoulder straps and belt. A well ventilated back (air cooling label), practical storage (with belt, water bladder and mesh pockets) and rain cover make this a complete hiking backpack. 30 liter volume / weight: 2.3 pounds / full pack dimensions: H 52cm x W 35cm x D 27cm. Load adjuster straps and chest strap. Pockets: 1 inner, 2 outer + mesh pockets, 1 on the belt and pole-carrier.”

After trying on several different sizes and styles, this one fit me the best and didn’t interfere with freedom of movement. We’ve done quite a few training hikes and although I’m still a bit concerned about weight, this pack is extremely comfortable and the ventilated back is very nice. I like the color too.

Forclaz 30 Air Hiking Backpack, Green by Quechua
Forclaz 30 Air Hiking Backpack, Green by Quechua

Hiking PolesForclaz 500 Light Soft Blue/White by Quechua

“Three section pole with a collapsed length of 58cm, maximum extended length of 129 cm. Weight: 230 grams. Foam grip. Lined neoprene adjustable loop. Tungsten carbide tips with summer and winter baskets. I opted for two as I have done little long distance hiking and most of the Camino blogs recommend two if you’re bringing them. I started practicing with them during our Camino training hikes about three weeks prior to departure. The poles have helped with a knee that is still sore from a fall a couple of months ago so I’m assuming that they will be a welcome addition on the trip.

Forclaz 500 Light Soft Blue/White by Quechua
Forclaz 500 Light Soft Blue/White by Quechua

TowelCompact Hiking Towel, Green by Quechua

While just about any towel would do, this one is a lightweight microfiber that is only 42cm wide and 120cm long and weighs only 106 grams. It even came in it’s own stuff bag making it very easy to pack and carry.

Compact Hiking Towel, Green by Quechua
Compact Hiking Towel, Green by Quechua

Sleeping bag15° Light Hiking Sleeping Bag, Blue by Quechua

We opted for a lightweight bag with a right and left zip option. This particular one has a stuff bag that makes it very compact and storable in your pack. Since Kiara will be coming with us we plan to be camping more than most pilgrims since most albergues do not accept dogs in the hostel. Not really knowing what weather we may be facing over nearly 7 weeks of hiking we decided to get one that was not only light to carry but would keep us warm on a chilly night. My favorite thing about this sleeping bag is that it doesn’t have to be rolled up!!

15° Light Hiking Sleeping Bag, Blue by Quechua
15° Light Hiking Sleeping Bag, Blue by Quechua

Water Bladder | Forclaz 2L Water Bladder by Quechua

Normally I would prefer my regular water bottle with the dual lined walls that keeps water cold for 30 hours in a hot car, but I opted to try a two-liter water bladder since I’m carrying water for both longer distances and for Kiara as well. I don’t have a lot of experience using a bladder but so far it’s been working for our training hikes and once I cleaned it up with some baking soda and fresh lemon juice the water tastes wonderful if just a bit warmer than I prefer, better than the plastic taste it had at first. This will be the heaviest thing in my pack, but when we know for sure that there are fountains on the trail I can carry less and of course it lightens the load as you use it.

Forclaz 2L Water Bladder by Quechua
Forclaz 2L Water Bladder by Quechua

HYGIENE

Shampoo bar | Irresistible Bliss by Lush      

“A dynamic pink shampoo bar for normal hair. To keep hair looking shiny and full of body, wash with this irresistible bar. The perfume is made with neroli (orange blossom) and jasmine to scent it with incredibly sensual florals throughout the day.” Not that I need to smell good, but I like the idea of a shampoo bar so that I’m not carrying liquids that could get messy in my pack. I have a mini microfiber towel for bathing and storing the shampoo bar, less mess, less weight.

Lush Shampoo Bar
Lush Shampoo Bar

Sunblock Silk Hydration Lotion Sunscreen by Hawaiian Tropic

I started out with a bottle of Loreal but it had glitter in it. I’d rather smell like a coconut than sparkle all day. This has an SPF of 30, which is what my everyday makeup has, so it should do the trick.

Silk Hydration Lotion Sunscreen by Hawaiian Tropic
Silk Hydration Lotion Sunscreen by Hawaiian Tropic

Baby wipes | store brand

These are the generic store brand from Geant Casino, our local supermarket. We may not have access to a shower daily, but I still like to clean up after a long day of hiking.

Daily Hygiene Stuff | Just the everyday basics

Brush/comb/Hair ties/Toothbrush/Toothpaste/Deodorant/Disposable razor.

FIRST AID

Blister care | Compeed-style mix/cushioned bandages

Foot care, foot care, foot care. The single most important thing for our trip will be our feet. Blisters can cause an unexpected delay of several days so taking care of blisters when they start is very important.

Basic care | Nail clippers/Nail file/Tweezers

Foot care is everything on a trip of this length, so I’m taking these along as a precaution so that toes and fingers stay healthy along the way.

Pain Reliever | store brand

Just a generic we brought from the US. We have no illusions that this trip will be easy, so I’m bringing a small bottle of Aleve-style pain reliever to reduce muscle ache and pain in case the wine doesn’t quite do it!

PERSONAL

Kiara’s Camino Collar

It is customary for pilgrims to tie a scallop shell on their packs to signify their pilgrimage. While Adam and Liz were here we had gone to Narbonne Plage, a nice beach on the Mediterranean and while there Liz found several small shells. She graciously allowed me to select one for Kiara, I selected the one that reminded me of the caramel stripe on Kiara’s face, and using the natural hole in the top of the shell I added a link and secured it to a faux pearl stretch bracelet to create a Camino Collar for Kiara. This has now been added to the back of my pack in remembrance of the little dog I love so much and who would have enjoyed this trip immensely.

Glasses/Notebook/Pens

I rarely journal but thought that this would be a great way to help jog the memory when I return home from 6 to 7 weeks of hiking so that I have a reference for when I create a digital journal/scrapbook with photos and insights of my Camino.

Camera and Gear

–Camera | Nikon AW100

I’ve had this since before we moved. It’s rugged, waterproof (to 10 meters/33 feet), shockproof (to 1.5 meters/5 feet), freezeproof (to 14 degrees Farenheit). It is 16 megapixel, 5x zoom, can record full HD video and even has GPS with electronic compass. It’s basically perfect for any outdoor adventure.

Nikon AW100 camera
Nikon AW100 camera

–Gear | Batteries/SD cards/Charger

I have three batteries, several SD cards (two 32GB, one 16GB, one 4GB and one 1GB) and a lightweight battery charger (with adaptor) that will make up the balance of my camera gear.

iPhone and charger

Just for staying in touch and updates to our progress. We do not have a data plan for the iPhones in France, but free wifi allows us to post updates to Facebook and our blog along the way. I haven’t decided whether or not this will make the final cut, Alan is planning to bring his and he can handle the updates and posts with his. I’m wondering if I could spend 7 weeks completely unplugged . . . hmmm. Since the death of my computer I’ve been given a rare opportunity to spend time without a lot of social networking, it may be a possibility.

IDENTIFICATION

Passport

Best to have with me, just in case! Rarely have had to show it, but my driver’s license won’t mean anything to French or Spanish authorities.

Pilgrim Passport(s)

This is a must for the Camino, it will need to be stored in a ziplock bag within easy reach, especially the last 100 kilometers, as it will need to be stamped twice daily. I am expecting to have more than one by the time we are finished — at least two for the Camino Frances, one for Finisterre and/or Muxia.

Other ID

Drivers’ license, passport card, insurance ID.

Travel Insurance Info

When we moved out of the country we purchased a year-long travel insurance that covers us wherever we travel. For most emergencies it has better coverage than our US medical insurance, so we’re bringing along the account information and contact numbers just in case we have an emergency.

Credit Cards

This is really just as a backup, since Alan will have his – but we’d rather not be far from home without access to any of our bank accounts.

FOOD

Salami and Fruit

These two lunch staples will be easy to carry, easy to prepare, and easy to replace so we plan to keep a small amount with us for lunches while we hike. Most of our other meals will be available at cafes, bars and albergues along the way.

MISCELLANEOUS

Ziplock bags

Just a couple for keeping things contained and dry. I plan to rinse and reuse them for the trip so only taking a couple.

Tracy’s Backpack weighed in at  15.4 pounds (7 kilograms.)

===================================================================================

We have reviewed and lightened up our backpacks as much as we think we can.   In the words of Hunter S. Thompson, “Buy the ticket, take the ride.”  Time to stop over-thinking gear and get psyched up to enjoy our Camino de Santiago pilgrimage.

See our post camino equipment review, here, or read more about our adventures on our Camino de Santiago page.

We will do great with our gear.  If we need something else, we will just buy it along the way.  If we discover we are carrying unneeded gear, we can just donate it to others.

The contents of Alan's backpack
The contents of Alan’s backpack

 

Camino de Santiago – By The Numbers

As we finish our final preparations to depart for the Camino de Santiago at the end of the week, I was looking at the statistics for the pilgrimage.  It gives me great confidence to see that so many pilgrims are successful in finishing the route and that the vast majority of pilgrims are older than 30 years old rather than just being teens or college-aged men and women.  We are looking forward to participating in such a historic spiritual and cultural event.  Just a few days to go.

-Alan and Tracy’s ages:  

  • 55 and 49

-Weight of Alan and Tracy’s backpacks:

  • 21.5 pounds (9.7 kilograms), 15.4 pounds (7 Kilograms)

-Distance from Saint Jean-Pied-de-Port, France to Santiago de Compostela, Spain (the Camino Francés):

  • 490 miles (791 kilometers)

-Additional distance from Santiago de Compostela to Finisterre and then on to Muxia:  

  • 71.6 miles (115.2 kilometer)  (An estimated 5% of pilgrims continue to Finisterre)

-Number of pilgrims that finished the Camino (2012):

  • 192,448

-Number of pilgrims, by month, that finished the Camino in 2012:

  •  January 884
  • February 1,300
  • March 3,257
  • April 14,753
  • May 21,766
  • June 25,513
  • July 32,820
  • August 41,095
  • September 27,318
  • October 18,085
  • November 4,173
  • December 1,484

-Gender of pilgrims (2012):

  • Male:  56.53%
  • Female:  43.47%

-Pilgrims by age (2012):

  • Less than 30 years old:  28.43%
  • 30-60 years old:  56.79%
  • Over 60 years old:  14.78%

-Pilgrims by nationalities (top ten countries in 2012):

  • Spain:  49.50%   95,275
  • Germany:  8.11%   15,620
  • Italy:  6.44%   12,404
  • Portugal:  5.37%   10,329
  • France:  4.22%  8,121
  • United States:  3.67%   7,071
  • Ireland:  2.00%   3,844
  • United Kingdom:  1.95%   3,758
  • Netherlands:  1.57%   3,015
  • Canada:  1.51%   2,904

-Pilgrims’ mode of transportation (2012):

  • Walking:  85.60%
  • Bicycle:  14.24%
  • Horse:  0.15%
  • Wheelchair:  0.01%

-Motive for pilgrimage (2012):

  • Religious and other:  52.56%
  • Religious:  41.30%
  • Non-religious:  6.14%

-Top five starting points (2012)

  • Sarria:  21.16%  (To earn the “Compostela” you need to have walked as a minimum the last 100km from Sarria.)
  • Saint jean-Pied-de-Port:  11.54%
  • León:  5.41%
  • Cebreiro:  5.36%
  • Roncesvalles:  4.40%

-Camino route followed (2012):

  • Camino Francés:  70.12%
  • Camino Portugués:  13.31%
  • Camino del Norte:  6.71%
  • Vía de la Plata:  4.24%
  • Camino Primitivo:  3.30%
  • Camino Inglés:  1.86%
  • Otros Caminos:  0.46%

-Earliest recorded pilgrims from beyond the Pyrenees Mountains to visit the shrine at Santiago de Compostela:

  • 11th Century
  • First pilgrims from England arrived between 1092 and 1105 A.D.

Barcelona: Parc del Laberint, Passeig de Gràcia, Plaça de Catalunya, and La Rambla

One reason we wanted to retire to Europe was to have a central place from which to “springboard” to explore many different cities in Europe.  With Adam and Liz visiting we decided to do just that and spent a few days in Barcelona, Spain.  We found that Adam and Liz share our interest the work of Antoni Gaudí so it was time to make some hotel and train reservations and head to Barcelona. It is only about a three-hour train ride to Barcelona from Carcassonne.  The TER (Transport Express Régional) to Narbonne, the high-speed TVG (Train à Grande Vitesse) to the Figueres Vilafant train station (just inside the Spanish border) to switch into a RENFE (ReNacional de los Ferrocarriles Españoles – Spanish National Railway Network) high-speed AVE (Alta Velocidad Española – Spanish High Speed) train.  The RENFE train was beautiful and we enjoyed the use of the club car for ice-cold Spanish beer.

Adam and Liz on the TER train out of Carcassonne.
Adam and Liz on the TER train out of Carcassonne.
Tracy, Alan, and Kiara on the TGV enroute to Spain.
Tracy, Alan, and Kiara on the TGV enroute to Spain.
A Spanish RENFE AVE Siemens Velaro (left) and a French SNCF TGV Duplex (right) at Figueres-Vilafant Station (Wikimedia Commons)
A Spanish RENFE AVE Siemens Velaro (left) and a French SNCF TGV Duplex (right) at Figueres-Vilafant Station
(Wikimedia Commons)

In very little time we were in Barcelona, sharing a pitcher (or two) of sangria.  Sitting on the Mediterranean Sea with about five million residents, Barcelona is the second largest city in Spain, the sixth most populated urban area in the European Union.

A panoramic view of Barcelona (Wikimedia Commons)
A panoramic view of Barcelona
(Wikimedia Commons)

We decided that while Paris is beautiful, Barcelona is gorgeous.  Stunningly gorgeous.

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Adam led us to Parc del Laberint d’Horta (Labyrinth Park of Horta) in the Horta-Guinardó district in Barcelona.  The park is the oldest of its kind in the city. Located in the former estate of the Desvalls family, next to the Serra de Collserola ridge, the park combines an 18th century neoclassical garden and a 19th century romantic garden.  In 1967 the Desvalls family donated the park to the city of Barcelona, who opened to the public in 1971.  Liz had always wanted to explore a maze and was looking forward to exploring the labyrinth, so we lined up behind her and had her lead the way.

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Returning to our hotel room and realizing that it wasn’t cooling off very quickly, we decided to take an evening walk through Passeig de Gràcia, Plaça de Catalunya, and La Rambla.  Passeig de Gràcia is one of the major avenues in Barcelona, it is compared to the Champs-Élysées, Fifth Avenue, and Rodeo Drive and is one of  the most important shopping and business areas of Barcelona containing many of the city’s most celebrated pieces of architecture. Passeig de Gràcia is regarded as the most expensive street in Barcelona and in Spain.

Plaça de Catalunya (Catalonia Square) is Barcelona’s large city square and is considered to be the city center and the place where the old city and the modern city meet.

La Rambla is located off Plaça de Catalunya.  The tree-lined pedestrian mall stretches for 1.2 kilometers between Barri Gòtic and El Raval, connecting Plaça de Catalunya with the Monumento a Colón (Christopher Columbus Monument) at Port Vell (the Old Harbor.)  Even in the middle of the week there is tremendous energy and activity in the “Heart of Barcelona.”

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The following day was all about exploring Gaudi’s art and architecture and his contributions to Barcelona.

Getting A French Bank Account

A project I started in the first few weeks after we arrived in Carcassonne was setting up a French bank account.  This wasn’t the same as those people you read about in the news with numbered foreign bank accounts in Switzerland, the Cayman Islands, Bermuda, or Luxembourg as a tax dodge.  Our  intentions is to follow the financial rules and to stay under the $10,000 maximum balance in a foreign account that would require a FBAR, or “Report of Foreign Bank and Financial Accounts,” Treasury Form TD F 90-22.1 be filed with the US IRS.

We wanted a French bank account for three common sense reasons.

The first reason was that to minimize foreign transaction and conversion fees from our US bank.  An international wire transfer currently has a flat $35.00 fee compared to being “nickel and dimed” with withdrawals and conversion fees  every time we patronize French ATMs and businesses with our US bank cards. Being on a fixed income we want to minimize the monthly fees that we can control.  It would be less expensive for us to transfer one larger amount of cash into a French bank account and use a local debit card for purchases.

Secondly is that France was one of the innovators of the “Chip and Pin” style, EMV credit/debit card.  (EMV is Europay – Mastercard – Visa, a global standard for integrated circuit cards and “IC” card capable “point of sale terminals” and ATMs used to authenticate credit and debit card transactions.)  While a traditional US style cards will work in many ATMs and at some businesses in France, many businesses will only accept the “Chip and PIN” style card or not understand how to “swipe” a traditional US card.  We wanted greater flexibility in our day-to-day life and our US bank is not issuing “Chip and PIN” cards yet.  Regular US cards (with some exceptions) are not scheduled to transition to “Chip and PIN” EMV technology until 2015-2017.   On their recent visit to France, Adam and Liz found their US cards worked at the ATM but not in restaurants or clubs.

Finally, there are times when technology fails and an ATM or business does not get a response back from international data lines and computers with US-based cards.  We wanted a back-up in the event of sunspots, earthquakes, satellite outages, volcanos, undersea cable breaks, or the “Blue Screen of Death.” I like  “belt and suspender” redundancy.  We also wanted a backup in case our US card is lost or stolen.

The process of setting up a French bank account took about 12 weeks for us to complete from beginning to end.  Because our US bank is Bank of America, we selected French bank BNP Paribas (the fourth largest bank in the world) who is Bank of America’s foreign partner in France.  Because of this affiliation, Bank of America will waive some fees.

We made an appointment at the local BNP and met with a very helpful bilingual bank officer.  The only snag was that she was bilingual in French and Spanish. (We are very close to Spain in Carcassonne.)   Between our rudimentary French, my old police Spanish, basic Italian, Google Translate, and our bank officer’s very basic English we started the process for a bank account with the “Chip and PIN” style debit cards referred to as Carte Bleue.  We left the meeting with the paperwork started, but we needed to return with additional documentation of our residency.

Between our first and second appointment to the bank we had our meeting with OFII (L’Office Français de l’Immigration et de l’Intégration – French Immigration) which (after a medical exam, chest x-ray, and application review) granted us our Titre de Sejour (resident permits) to upgrade our original visas.

Titre de Sejour
Titre de Sejour

On our second appointment at the bank we brought photocopies of our Titre de Sejour and a detailed copy of our lease with rent receipts to prove our residency in Carcassonne.  What our bank officer normally needed by bank policy was also a utility bill (gas, electricity, a land-line telephone)  as further proof of residency at the address.  We explained (often using pantomime, Italian, and pidgin French) that all the utilities were in our landlord’s name and without a local bank account we could not start a utility account.  After conferring with her bank manager the solution was found to send us a registered letter at our address to sign and return as final proof of residency.  A very elegant and helpful solution.  We appreciated that the bank’s management could “think outside the box” and work with our odd circumstances.  In anticipation of the final approval by the bank manager, our bank officer finished the paperwork, assigned us an account number, and told us to return once the registered letter was signed to pick up the bank cards.

The registered letter arrived three days later which we signed and had the receipt sent back to the bank.  Soon after claim tickets for our Carte Bleue debit cards arrived in the mail along with “Welcome Customer” letters from BNP.

Now for the confusing part.  We went to the back to pick up the cards and were told that they hadn’t arrived from the manufacturer yet and to come back in a week.  A week later we were told the same thing.  The third week we were getting worried that with our inadequate French, we had missed a step in the process.  Should we have made an initial deposit into the account before the bank would release the cards?  The fourth week later we spoke with our Bank Officer who was able to convey that because of the internal electronics it takes the manufacturer four to six weeks to make the cards and asked us to be patient and the bank would call us when the cards arrived.

In the mean time our son Adam and his fiancée Liz arrived for a visit and we put the bank cards concerns on hold and had a great visit with them.  The day after Adam and Liz left, we received a call from the bank (I stumbled through the telephone conversation in French) that our cards had arrived.  After a short walk to the bank (with lunch on the way) we were proud owners of our Cartes Bleue and had officially established a functioning bank account in France.  It took two appointments over six weeks and six weeks of waiting for the cards to be manufacturer and arrive at the bank.

Another small step in establishing our expat life in Europe. Now we will work on the online International Transfer process with Bank of America. We expect to have everything set up, validated, and our first wire transfer completed by the middle of August – just in time for our Camino trip!

Alan and Tracy's Cartes Bleue
Alan and Tracy’s Cartes Bleue

Paris: Travel and Sacré-Cœur Basilica

Adam and Liz were flying into Aéroport Paris–Charles de Gaulle (Charles De Gaulle Airport – Paris) so we needed to travel to the other side of France to meet them.  Tracy and I elected to not get a car when we moved to France and because we were traveling with Kiara the Chihuahua using RyanAir or EasyJet (the discount airlines) was not an option.  So we made use of SNCF’s (Société Nationale des Chemins de fer Français – French National Railroad Company) regional trains and the newly available Ouigo high-speed train.  The Ouigo is a subsidiary of SNCF and is basically a stripped TGV (Train à Grande Vitesse) high-speed train without a club car designed to compete with the discount airlines.  The trains happily accept Kiara which made her and us very happy.  The Ouigo was comfortable and quiet and we enjoyed a very rural view of France that reminded us of Kansas and Nebraska with lots of grain fields and vineyards.

SNCF Train
SNCF Train
Tracy and Alan traveling by rail
Tracy and Alan traveling by rail
Tracy and Kiara waiting for the train
Tracy and Kiara waiting for the train

Another reason for the Ouigo’s discount fare is its use of secondary train stations.  We arrived at the train station at Marne-la-Vallée – Chessy outside Paris only to realize that Marne-la-Vallée is the station for Disneyland-Paris.  We hadn’t realized that walking out the station door would put us immediately at the entrance to Disneyland.  We caught the RER (Réseau Express Régional – Regional Express Network) commuter train from Marne-la-Vallée to Paris and then the famous Paris Métropolitain (subway) to our hotel in the Montmartre district of Paris in the 18th arrondissement, a Right Bank arts neighborhood.

We arrived a day earlier than Adam and Liz’s arrival, so we did an evening stroll to visit Sacré-Cœur Basilica.  Located at the summit of the Butte Montmartre, the highest point in the Paris, the Basilica of the Sacred Heart of Paris, more commonly called Sacré-Cœur Basilica, is a Roman Catholic church and minor basilica, dedicated to the Sacred Heart of Jesus.  Built of white travertine stone, the Basilica is brilliantly illuminated and stunning at night.

Sacré-Cœur Basilica
Sacré-Cœur Basilica
Sacré-Cœur Basilica
Sacré-Cœur Basilica

The Basilica complex has a large garden area and  a fountain. There is an amazing panoramic view overlooking Paris from the Basilica and garden.  The Basilica complex is a favorite meeting place for young people with more than a hundred on the grounds socializing as we explored. To reach the top of Butte Montmartre there is a steep series of stairs with over 300 steps or a funicular railway.  The funicular has two parallel tracks with one car on each: one car going up counter-balancing the other car coming down.  In a minute and a half the funicular travels 354 horizontal feet and climbs the 35% gradient 118 vertical feet to the top of Butte Montmartre.  It is well worth the cost of one Métro ticket to enjoy a ride to the top.  The funicular transports about two million passengers each year.

Tracy and Kiara on the Montmartre Funicular
Tracy and Kiara on the Montmartre Funicular
Montmartre Funicular
Montmartre Funicular

With Sacré-Cœur Basilica around the corner from our hotel enjoyed the beauty of the Basilica on the hill above us and we later returned to share the sight with Adam and Liz.

View of Paris from Sacré-Cœur Basilica (Wikimedia Commons)
View of Paris from Sacré-Cœur Basilica
(Wikimedia Commons)

Credencials: Camino de Santiago de Compostela Pilgrimage

Tracy and I received our Credencials del Peregrino (Pilgrims’ Passports) this week from American Pilgrims on the Camino, a non-profit organization that facilitates and assists North American pilgrims, particularly those in the United States. (http://www.americanpilgrims.com/)  Credencials are also available from other authorized organizations, confraternities, and at pilgrims offices on the route.

Credencial del Peregrino
Credencial del Peregrino

The credencials are part of the thousand-year old tradition of the Camino de Santiago.  The credencial is a modern version of letters of safe-conduct letters or letters of introductions carried by medieval pilgrims.  The document shows that you are a bona fide pilgrim and entitled to have access to low-cost albergues and refugios (hostels.) The credencial is also used to authenticate your process by dated sellos (stamps, similar to a passport stamps) being added along the way.

Sello Stamps  (Wikimedia Commons)
Sello Stamps
(Wikimedia Commons)

Pilgrims normally need to obtain one sello per day from alburgues, churches, town halls, or police stations to document their progress. To ensure pilgrims are actually walking the route and not making use of motor transportation, over the last 100 kilometers pilgrims are required to get two sellos each day.  (Pilgrims using bicycles or horses must obtain two sellos daily from 200 kilometers outside Santiago de Compostela.)  We are hoping walk enough miles daily on our 500 mile (800 kilometers) trek as to not run out of room for sellos and require us having to obtain a second credencial to allow for additional sellos.

Credencial del Peregrino
Credencial del Peregrino

At the conclusion of the pilgrimage and reaching Santiago de Compostela we will need to present ourselves at the Cathedral’s Pilgrims Office to have our credencials reviewed prior to being awarded a Compostela. The Compostela is a certificate of accomplishment that is presented to pilgrims who complete at least the last 100 kilometers of the Camino de Santiago and have undertaken the pilgrimage for spiritual or religious motivations.  The Compostela dates back to the early middle ages and its text is still in the original Latin.  There are over 100,000 Compostelas awarded every year to pilgrims from more than 100 countries.  For those pilgrims completing the Camino, but not for spiritual or religious reasons, a Certificate of Completion is alternatively issued in Spanish.

We are now about eight weeks out from our departure date and we are getting very anxious to start walking the Camino.

OFII Medical Exam and Titre de Sejour

xamTracy and I are extremely excited that we have successfully completed our process for obtaining our Titre de Sejour (resident permits) at the OFII (L’Office Français de l’Immigration et de l’Intégration) office in Montpellier yesterday.

Titre de Sejour
Titre de Sejour

The detailed process started in January 2013 when we first applied for our initial visa application at the French Consulate in San Francisco.  After our visa request was accepted, the consulate gave us each a form, Demande d’Attestation OFII, that we would need to mail to the regional OFII office having jurisdiction over our new residence after our arrival in France.  We added the Demande d’Attestation forms to our growing dossier of documents which we carefully hand carried on our flight to France.

During the first week in Carcassonne, we ventured to the post office to mail the Demande d’Attestation forms and supporting photocopies (passport page showing personal information with identification numbers, stamp from French immigration showing the date and point of entry, and  the visa that was issued by the Consulate.)  This involved using of our very limited French to mail a certified letter with receipt showing proof of posting. Titre de Sejour process is time sensitive and has to be completed within 90 days, so not knowing how long the French bureaucracy might take, we wanted to get it started as quickly as possible.

Surprisingly, we received back a confirmation letter back from OFII in a week’s time with an appointment set for May 23 for our medical exam and interview in Montpellier. At least that is what we discovered after a lengthy translation session with the five pages of correspondence enclosed.  Thank goodness for Google Translate and a French-English dictionary.  The medical exam appeared to be centered around a chest x-ray so we assumed the biggest concern for OFII was immigrants from developing countries with possible tuberculosis.

This past week was busy as we double-checked that we had all the additional supporting documents to bring for the appointment in our dossier.  We needed proof of our address in the form of a rental agreement and rent receipts, our passports with our original visa, extra passport photos, and payment in the form of 241€ each in tax stamps.

The confirmation letter from OFII said that we could obtain the tax stamps at specially designated tabacs, tobacco stores, (basically your neighborhood “7-11” store.)  That put me on the hunt for  finding a “specially designated” tabac, again using my very limited French.  Off to the friendly corner tabac at the end of our block, “Etes-vous en mesure de me timbre vendre pour montant de 241€?”  “No,” but the very helpful woman escorted me out the door to point into town and give me a lengthy explanation of who could help me.  I, of course, understood one word out of every four. So I smiled politely, said merci, and wandered into town to try my luck at another tabac.  And another tabac, and another tabac, and still another tabac without success.

I thought I should take another tack and visit the Tourist Information office, mainly to speak with a bilingual person who might have an idea of which tabac might be able to help me.  The three people at the Tourist Office conferred and, since this was a government issue, sent me to the Prefect office down the block.  Unfortunately the Prefect closed at 4:00 so I went to the only government office that was open, the post office.  La Poste does nearly everything in France, including having its own national banking service, so I hoped they might even have tax stamps along with their postage stamps.  A very nice young woman with fairly good English explained that La Poste doesn’t issue tax stamps, but suggested the tabac/bar in front of the post office.  Score!  The proprietor was only too happy to sell me a four 90€, four 30€, and two 1€ tax stamps.

OFII
OFII

The day before the appointment we went to the train station for the seemingly simple task was getting train tickets to Montpellier, 90 miles east of Carcassonne.  We had been to Montpellier a couple of times by train with no problems.  However, the day of our appointment we learned that there was going to be a rail strike starting that evening when we needed to return home.  Just when I was considering trying to telephone OFII and reschedule the appointment, the ticket agent nonchalantly scheduled us for a bus ride back to Carcassonne.  Problem solved.

The morning of the appointment Tracy and I had a pleasant train ride to Montpellier and walked a block from the train station to the very conveniently located OFII office in a nondescript office business.  We joined a diverse group of OFII clients waiting for our appointment at 1:30.  The group included people from Asia, the Middle East, Africa, us from the US, and an older Australian couple that would play into this story.  Once the office open the OFII staff systematically and efficiently processed the people in our group.  The staff was very good about working with immigrants who may have limited skills speaking French.

We were kind of thrown for a loop when Tracy was called for her x-ray as “Tracy White,” her maiden name with a French pronunciation.  But the confusion was temporary and Tracy was up and gone getting her chest x-ray.  I later got confused where to go after my name was called for my x-ray and joined the wrong group.  The staff patiently redirected my path and the x-ray process was quick and easy followed by an interview with a nurse on health issues, an eye exam, and height and weight measurements.  Apparently a change in diet and walking everyday has very good for us since we’ve lost about 30 pounds since our arrival in France.

Next we were seen by the doctor who read our x-rays, reviewed our medical histories, and signed off on our medical clearances. We were given our x-ray films to take home ( “. . . lovely parting gifts”)  which appears to be the norm for x-rays in France.

Chest X-ray
Chest X-ray

Now back to the Aussie couple.  While we were waiting for our final interview, the Australian couple went in ahead of us for their final interview.  I previously discussed how in this part of France any “generic English speaker” is assumed to be British.  Well, apparently we also “all look alike” too.  Granted that the Aussie man and I are “of an age” with grey hair, but by no stretch of the imagination could Tracy be confused with the Aussie’s rather dowdy wife who is about 20 years older than Tracy.  However, the woman performing the Aussies’ final interview initially put our Titre de Sejour stickers into their passports.  Once we walked in and she saw our paperwork, she realized she confused us with the only other English-speaking couple in the group; she sprinted to the elevator to catch the Aussies before that left the building.  She and another OFII staff member carefully removed our Titre de Sejour stickers from the Aussies’ passports before the adhesive “set” and then re-applied our Titre de Sejour into our passports.  For a while there Tracy and I would have been living in France under assumed identities and nationalities.

Our staff member kept apologizing for the mix up as she processed our tax stamps and final paper work.  That was only “snag” in our entire residency process, so we were very pleased with how smooth the French bureaucracy had treated us.  There were a few more final signatures and the use of a rubber stamp and we were then official residents of France.  Our appointment at the OFII office lasted an hour and forty-five minutes from start to finish, I’ve spent more time than that waiting at DMV to register a car.

Nothing more to worry about with our residency until we start our renewal process in January.  Hopefully by then the new four-year renewal period will be approved rather than the current annual renewal.

EDC – Every Day Carry

Pretty much every trip out of the apartment I have my Every Day Carry (EDC) bag, my essentials for every day in our new home of Carcassonne.

This carry bag is a bit different from my current and former law enforcement colleagues, with their EDC gear including their department or LEOSA authorized essentials for making an arrest or resolving a self-defense situation, but the principles of being self-sufficient are the same.

1.  5.11 Tactical P.U.S.H. (Practical Utility Shoulder Hold-all) Pack

I like a carry bag that I can organize my gear and use winter or summer.  A carry bag can be carried over a heavy jacket or a shirt.  There is no forgetting a piece of gear being left in the pocket of my other jacket or left on a nightstand, it is all in one place.  I like the 5.11 brand for its low-key practicality and toughness.  The pockets are secure so there are fewer worries about a pickpocket lifting my wallet or camera and the bag’s ballistic nylon deters access by cutting into the bag.  The P.U.S.H. pack doesn’t scream “expensive camera bag,” “military bag,” or “cop bag” and it isn’t an oversized messenger/computer bag.

Alan wearing 5.11 P.U.S.H. pack
Alan wearing 5.11 P.U.S.H. pack

There is a “man bag” culture in France and the Mediterranean areas with many local men wearing a shoulder bag “cross chest carry,” a sacs en bandoulière,  so my carry bag, while a bit larger than average here, blends well into everyday life without making me looking like a tourist.  (Think, “Fanny pack.”)

The P.U.S.H. pack has two side expanding pockets that I make use of for a water bottle and sunglasses case.

5.11 Tactical PUSH (Practical Utility Shoulder Hold-all) Pack
5.11 Tactical PUSH (Practical Utility Shoulder Hold-all) Pack
5.11 Tactical PUSH (Practical Utility Shoulder Hold-all) Pack with Sunglasses and water bottle
5.11 Tactical PUSH (Practical Utility Shoulder Hold-all) Pack with Sunglasses and water bottle

2.  Kleen Kanteen Classic 18 ounces water bottle

I carry Kleen Kanteen stainless steel water bottle with 18 ounce capacity.  With us walking more in our new home, we never have to scramble for something to drink.  Carrying a water bottle eliminates the cost of buying water and the impact of all those empty plastic bottles.  The Kleen Kanteen is free of BPAs and has no plastic or epoxy linings that can crack like in aluminum water bottles.

Kleen Kanteen 18oz Classic
Kleen Kanteen 18oz Classic

3 & 4.  Ray Ban Prescription Original Wayfarers Sunglasses and Hazard 4 Sub-Pod Sunglasses Case

With making the decision to be pedestrians most of the time, I end up wearing my sunglasses nearly all the time when I’m outdoors in the daytime.  I opted for the darkest polarized lenses available and a nearly “crush-proof” Hazard 4 sunglasses case.  I trade out my standard eyeglasses and sunglasses in the case so I always have both with me.

Hazard 4 Sub-Pod Sunglasses Case
Hazard 4 Sub-Pod Sunglasses Case
Ray Ban Prescription Original Wayfarers Sunglasses and Hazard 4 Sub-Pod Sunglasses Case
Ray Ban Prescription Original Wayfarers Sunglasses and Hazard 4 Sub-Pod Sunglasses Case

5.  BLU Samba Jr Cellphone

Tracy and I needed phone communication in France immediately upon arrival. We purchased an unlocked cellphone and SIM card with a French telephone number from Cellular Abroad, a National Geographic affiliated company. It’s a “pay-as-you-go” system where you can add time through an English-speaking operator.  We wanted to “unplug” for a while from always having smart phones, but wanted a basic phone for emergency “112” calls (French “911”), calls from home, and a local phone number for French government agencies and businesses.  After our French bank account is established we will consider whether or not to reactivate our unlocked iPhones with a French provider.

BLU Samba Jr Cellphone
BLU Samba Jr Cellphone

6 & 7.  Business Cards and Dog Waste Bags

We have business/calling cards printed with our e-mail for use with new friends and local businesses.  The dog waste bags are so we can be good neighbors cleaning up after Kiara (although it seems that, regardless of signs everywhere, few French dog owners follow suit).

Business Cards and Dog Waste Bags
Business Cards and Dog Waste Bags

8, 9, 10 & 11.  Bellroy Travel Wallet, Currency, Identification, Miscellaneous Cards

There is a Bellroy travel wallet in carry bag’s zippered inner pocket. I wanted to stop wearing my wallet in my back pocket where it is more accessible to pickpockets.  It now takes a very concerted effort to obtain my wallet from its location in my carry bag.  My travel wallet holds my passport (France wants you to have your Carte d’Identité or passport with you.), currency, driver’s license, credit cards, SNCF and TER (national and regional train systems) discount cards, and French supermarket loyalty cards.

Bellroy Travel Wallet
Bellroy Travel Wallet

12 & 13.  Moleskine Notebook and Pen

My second most used tools in the bag.  I am constantly writing notes to myself, making lists, listing directions, translating French phrases to request assistance, and writing down personal observations.  One of those old police habits of always having paper and pen available and making frequent notes.

Moleskine Notebook and Pen
Moleskine Notebook and Pen

14 & 15.  Folding Nylon Shopping Bags and Spare Reading Glasses for Tracy

“Paper or plastic?” is not usually an option here.  If you want a bag for your groceries you need to bring one (or several) yourself. Being primarily pedestrians, running back to the apartment to get shopping bags when we suddenly remember that we needed some things for the kitchen is awkward and time-consuming.  The thin, folding nylon bags take little space and are always helpful.  I also carry an extra spare of Tracy’s reading glasses in my carry bag since she often doesn’t carry a purse or camera bag..

Shopping bags and Tracy's reading glasses
Shopping bags and Tracy’s reading glasses

16.  Olympus E-PL2 Mirrorless Digital Camera and Electronic Viewfinder with an Olympus M.Zuiko 14-150 mm Zoom Lens with lens hood and an Olympus M.Zuiko 17 mm “pancake lens” or a Olympus Tough TG820 Waterproof/Shockproof Digital Compact Camera 

My most used tools since arriving in France have been my cameras. I alternate between carrying the compact Olympus TG820 when I want something lightweight in my bag all the time or in adverse weather and the Olympus Pen Camera with interchangeable lenses when I want more professional shooting options.  When we decided to minimize one area was my photography.  I had a larger prosumer Canon DSLR with multiple lenses which I really enjoyed.  But two years ago when I carried my Canon outfit to the top of Florence’s cathedral dome, up  all 463 steps, I realized that:  1.) I wasn’t getting any younger (that was a “killer” climb even without the heavy gear) and  2.) I wasn’t shooting photos professionally anymore.  Today I shoot photos to share events and travels with family and friends.  I decided to explore the new smaller and lighter “mirrorless” digital camera systems and return to a more classic “Robert Capa” photojournalism style of shooting images.

The carry bag allows me to “stash” the cameras out of sight in a low-key bag to avoid being targeted for camera theft and to avoid the perception of the stereotypical tourist.  I always have at least the compact camera and extra batteries in my carry bag so I hope to never lose a “photo op” because I didn’t want to carry a DSLR camera with me.

Olympus Tough TG820 Waterproof/Shockproof Digital Compact Camera
Olympus Tough TG820 Waterproof/Shockproof Digital Compact Camera
Olympus E-PL2 Mirrorless Digital Camera and Electronic Viewfinder with an Olympus M.Zuiko 14-150 mm Zoom Lens with lens hood and an Olympus M.Zuiko 17 mm "pancake lens"
Olympus E-PL2 Mirrorless Digital Camera and Electronic Viewfinder with an Olympus M.Zuiko 14-150 mm Zoom Lens with lens hood and an Olympus M.Zuiko 17 mm “pancake lens”

17.  Carabiner

I carry a carabiner on my bag to quickly secure my carry bag if I remove it while eating or having an espresso at an outdoor cafe. Anytime I take my carry bag off, the shoulder strap is looped around a chair or the table (or in a pinch, my leg) and secured with the carabiner.  Anyone attempting to “grab and run” is going have to be able to outrun me while dragging along a large piece of the restaurant’s furniture attached to my bag.

Carabiner
Carabiner

18, 19, 20, & 21.  Change, Money Clip, Leatherman Juice Tool, and Apartment Keys

The final parts of my EDC gear is actually located on my person, rather than in my carry bag.  I carry loose change is in my pockets.  Europe uses one and two Euro coins which have proven very convenient.  The lowest paper denomination for Euros is a five Euro note. I carry a money clip with currency in my pocket to avoid having to reach into my bag and displaying my wallet for every purchase.  I don’t want a prospective thief to constantly see where my wallet is coming and going to.

A Leatherman Juice C2 multi-tool takes care of most tool needs with needle-nose pliers, a knife blade, screwdrivers, and the very necessary corkscrew. I’ve carried this versatile pocket tool for years.

I still wear a wristwatch, another “cop habit,” although cellphones have nearly eliminated the need for one. I rotate wearing a Seiko Black Monster dive watch, a Victorinox Swiss Army Maverick II Dual Time Zone watch, a Longines dress watch that was a college graduation gift from my parents, a Citizen Eco-Drive watch that was a gift from Tracy, and a Seiko custom TMCC retirement watch, a personalized gift from Tim Dees.

My  final essential is the apartment’s keys.  After years of having the “school custodian’s” size rings of home, cars, and office keys, I now carry only a building key and apartment door key.

Leatherman Juice C2 muliti-tool, Euro coins and currency, and money clip
Leatherman Juice C2 muliti-tool, Euro coins and currency, and money clip
Watches
Watches
Keys
Keys

Even with the above items, There is still room in my EDC carry bag for whatever else the day’s activities might require:  an umbrella, map, shopping list, Kindle, camera flash, dog’s medical records, camera tripod, flashlight, or something for Tracy.

The Eagle Scout in me has a difficult time leaving for the day without remembering to “Be Prepared” which has been serving us both well in our daily exploits here in Carcassonne.