Went to the park today with Mom and Dad, wearing my favorite pink sweater. Mom shot video! Check me out at my favorite park in Carcassonne: Kiara at Bellevue Park.
Today at the Park
daily life
Win-Win and Wrinkle-Free Shirts
I had a run in with a little old lady the other day at the market. It wasn’t verbal, otherwise I would not have been able to participate anyway. It was all about the squint of her eyes.
Alan and I were walking through the stalls at the market. It was a nice warm day — this is the rainy season so we enjoy them when they happen — and we were without jackets. Alan’s permanent press shirts get wrinkled here, not exactly sure why but assume it’s the tiny washer/dryer combo and no room to fluff clothes.
As we were passing a group of three older ladies, he was in front of me, one of the ladies caught my eye, she gave me a look of disapproval, pointed at the back of his wrinkled shirt, then tsk-tsk’d me as she shook her head from side to side, her curly gray hair bouncing around her frowning, squinty-eyed face.
Her disapproval of my duties to Alan’s laundry kind of amused me at first. I mean, for heaven’s sake, I’m married to a full-grown adult who can wash, dry and iron his own clothing. We’ve been married nearly 13 years and the only time I’ve ironed something for him is if I was already using the thing for myself and asked if he needed anything pressed. Alan is fully capable of ironing his shirts in France, too.
But by the following Saturday, when Alan was getting ready to hit the market and pulled a shirt out of the closet that had a wrinkle on the back, I grabbed it and said, “hold on, just let me hit it with the iron first, can’t have the little old ladies at the market tsk-tsk’ing me again.”
I’m still a little amazed that I caved to peer-pressure from a little old lady. But, I alao avoided looks of disapproval from the gray-haired crowd at the market this time, so . . . win-win, and Alan gets wrinkle-free shirts!
French Beverages, Part 1: Pastis
Pastis is an anise-flavored liqueur and popular aperitif in France.
Ricard is the number one pastis beverage in the world, its recipe unaltered since its creation by Paul Ricard in 1932. A refreshing apperitif, Ricard is a long-time favorite in France, especially in the southern regions of the country. Over 130 million liters of pastis is sold each year in France, more than two liters per inhabitant. The name “pastis” originally comes from the regional dialect occitan’s word, pastís, meaning “mash-up.”
Pastis’ popularity grew following the French ban on absinth. One reason for the popularity of pastis can be attributable to the demand for anise flavored drinks created by absinthe decades earlier. There is also an old tradition in the Mediterranean of anise-based liquors like Sambuca, Ouzo, Arak, and Mastika.
The principal ingredients of Ricard is star anise, a rare spice that grows in southern Chinese and in the north of Vietnam, licorice from Syria, and aromatic herbs from Provence. Pastis is not absinthe and does not does not contain grand wormwood (artemisia absinthium), the herb from which absinthe gets its name. Absinthe obtains its base flavor from green anise, not the star anise which Ricard uses. Pastis’ flavor comes from licorice root which is not used in absinthe. Also, absinthes are normally bottled at 45 to 74% ABV, while pastis is typically bottled at 40 to 50% ABV. Finally, unlike absinthe, pastis is classified as a liqueur because it contains sugar.
Pastis is normally served with the liqueur presented in one glass and accompanied by carafe of cold water.
The liqueur is diluted with the water according to the drinker’s preference, traditionally about 5 parts water to 1 part Ricard. Diluting the liqueur creates the “French Milk” effect as the water is added. The combination of liqueur and water ‘louches,’ and turns the diluted beverage cloudy and white in appearance. The drink is then consumed cold and is considered a refreshing beverage for hot days. Ice cubes may be added after diluting the pastis.
The Bells of Saint Vincent’s
While enjoying a cup of cafe kreme (France’s version of cappuccino) we were treated to a concert via the bells of Saint Vincent’s Church just a block away.
The bells of the local Catholic churches ring hourly around here. We often find ourselves counting the chimes to tell the hour of the day. Every once in a while it sounds like the bell ringer (or electronic system used to ring the bells) goes haywire and you get 20 chimes at 1 p.m. It’s taken us a while to realize that the two Catholic churches, Saint Michael’s Cathedral and Saint Vincent’s Church have over 50 bells between them. That’s a lot of church bells.
Thankfully being raised Catholic I love the sound of bells. According the the Catholic Liturgical Calendar [courtesy of CatholicCulture.org] today is the Solemnity of the Ascension, the day when Jesus returned to his Father in Heaven, which would explain the joyous noise we were treated to this morning from this gorgeous Gothic church (see photo below) while we were enjoying our morning coffee.
So regardless of your spiritual beliefs or mine for that matter, here’s a clip of this morning’s impromptu concert. Enjoy!
Bells of Saint Vincent’s video
Carcassonne: Places of Worship
Carcassonne is filled with historic houses of worship.
1. Basilique Saint-Nazaire-et-Saint-Celse de Carcassonne (Basilica of Saint Nazaire and Saint Celsus) Located within the citadel of la Cité de Carcassonne, the “Jewel of the City,” has a harmonious coexistence between the Romanesque and Gothic windows which are the finest in the South of France. The first church was built in the sixth century, under the reign of the Visigoths. The first written record of the church dates from 925. In 1096, Pope Urban II came to Carcassonne and blessed the construction of what would become the Basilica of Saint Nazaire and Saint Celsus. The building was completed in the first half of the twelfth century. The nave and aisles remain in the Romanesque style. Gothic alterations were completed in the fourteenth century. The church was rebuilt many times and eventually lost its cathedral status in 1803 to Saint Michael’s Cathedral in the Bastide. Saint-Nazaire-et-Saint-Celse received the title of Basilica in 1898 from Pope Leo XIII.
2.) Cathédrale Saint-Michel de Carcassonne (Saint Michael’s Cathedral of Carcassonne) The church was designed in the Languedoc Gothic style. Built and rebuilt over the thirteenth, fourteenth, and nineteenth centuries, Saint Michael’s Cathedral originated as a parish church until 1803 when it was elevated as the seat of the Roman Catholic bishop for Carcassonne replacing Saint-Nazaire-et-Saint-Celse as the Cathedral for the diocese and used by the Priestly Order of Saint Peter. The Cathedral is designated as a French National Monument. Rebuilding the church was required after the invasion of the Black Prince and the destruction of the Ville Basse in 1355. There was also a devastating fire in 1849 that ravaged the church. Famous architect Eugène Emmanuel Viollet-le-Duc, known for his restoration of French historical monuments, led nearly 20 years of extensive restoration to the church.
3.) Eglise Saint-Vincent (Saint Vincent Church) This thirteenth century Roman Catholic church was also designed in the Languedoc Gothic style with an impressive 23.5 meter high vaulted roof. Climbing the 234 steps of the 54 meter high octagonal bell tower will lead past the 47 bells to a view of the Ville Basse and La Cite’. In the fifteenth century, rose windows and stained-glass windows were added to the church.
4.) Eglise des Carmes (Church of the Carmelites) The sparse Languedoc Gothic style Roman Catholic church was built at the end of the thirteenth century by the Order of the Brothers of Our Lady of Mount Carmel. There is also a Carmelite Covent. In 1966, the Carmelite chapel became a parish church and in the 1970s it became an annex parish to Saint Michael and Saint Vincent. The former convent, located on Rue de la Liberté, has been the offices of the diocese since 1981.
5.) Chapelle Notre Dame de la Santé (Chapel of Our Lady of Health) This small Roman Catholic chapel was built on the west side of the Pont Vieux (old bridge) with money from the legacy of Jean de Saix in 1527 for the creation of the plague hospital. The chapel’s gothic interior features beautiful ribbed vaults and tiercerons. The chapel was used by patients and families of the former hospital.
6.) Eglise Protestante Unie De Carcassonne – Communion Luthériens et Réformés (Protestant Church – French United Reformed Church) France is about 86% Roman Catholic, 7% Muslim, 2% Protestest, 1% Jewish, with 4% unaffiliated. This is literally the protestant church in Carcassonne. Apparently this church was established in 1562 by the Reformed Church of France after persecution of the Huguenots had subsided. There appears to have been a major renovation was started in 1888 and completed in 1890. Protestant church worshippers are mainly found in southeastern France.
7.) Mosquée Salam à Carcassonne (Salam Mosque in Carcassonne) French of Maghreb origin (having at least one grandparent from the former French colonies of Algeria, Morocco or Tunisia) in France form the largest ethnic group after French of European origin. This Maghreb influence is also reflected in 7% of the population being Muslim.
There is no Jewish Synagogue in Carcassonne. In 1394 Jews, blamed for the Black Death among other imaginary crimes, were expelled from Carcassonne and fled to Provence. After the invasion of France by the Nazis during World War II, a number of Jews returned and found refuge in Carcassonne, then in the unoccupied zone. Today the small Jewish population of Carcassonne has to travel to Toulouse or Montpellier for synagogue.
EDC – Every Day Carry
Pretty much every trip out of the apartment I have my Every Day Carry (EDC) bag, my essentials for every day in our new home of Carcassonne.
This carry bag is a bit different from my current and former law enforcement colleagues, with their EDC gear including their department or LEOSA authorized essentials for making an arrest or resolving a self-defense situation, but the principles of being self-sufficient are the same.
1. 5.11 Tactical P.U.S.H. (Practical Utility Shoulder Hold-all) Pack
I like a carry bag that I can organize my gear and use winter or summer. A carry bag can be carried over a heavy jacket or a shirt. There is no forgetting a piece of gear being left in the pocket of my other jacket or left on a nightstand, it is all in one place. I like the 5.11 brand for its low-key practicality and toughness. The pockets are secure so there are fewer worries about a pickpocket lifting my wallet or camera and the bag’s ballistic nylon deters access by cutting into the bag. The P.U.S.H. pack doesn’t scream “expensive camera bag,” “military bag,” or “cop bag” and it isn’t an oversized messenger/computer bag.
There is a “man bag” culture in France and the Mediterranean areas with many local men wearing a shoulder bag “cross chest carry,” a sacs en bandoulière, so my carry bag, while a bit larger than average here, blends well into everyday life without making me looking like a tourist. (Think, “Fanny pack.”)
The P.U.S.H. pack has two side expanding pockets that I make use of for a water bottle and sunglasses case.
2. Kleen Kanteen Classic 18 ounces water bottle
I carry Kleen Kanteen stainless steel water bottle with 18 ounce capacity. With us walking more in our new home, we never have to scramble for something to drink. Carrying a water bottle eliminates the cost of buying water and the impact of all those empty plastic bottles. The Kleen Kanteen is free of BPAs and has no plastic or epoxy linings that can crack like in aluminum water bottles.
3 & 4. Ray Ban Prescription Original Wayfarers Sunglasses and Hazard 4 Sub-Pod Sunglasses Case
With making the decision to be pedestrians most of the time, I end up wearing my sunglasses nearly all the time when I’m outdoors in the daytime. I opted for the darkest polarized lenses available and a nearly “crush-proof” Hazard 4 sunglasses case. I trade out my standard eyeglasses and sunglasses in the case so I always have both with me.
5. BLU Samba Jr Cellphone
Tracy and I needed phone communication in France immediately upon arrival. We purchased an unlocked cellphone and SIM card with a French telephone number from Cellular Abroad, a National Geographic affiliated company. It’s a “pay-as-you-go” system where you can add time through an English-speaking operator. We wanted to “unplug” for a while from always having smart phones, but wanted a basic phone for emergency “112” calls (French “911”), calls from home, and a local phone number for French government agencies and businesses. After our French bank account is established we will consider whether or not to reactivate our unlocked iPhones with a French provider.
6 & 7. Business Cards and Dog Waste Bags
We have business/calling cards printed with our e-mail for use with new friends and local businesses. The dog waste bags are so we can be good neighbors cleaning up after Kiara (although it seems that, regardless of signs everywhere, few French dog owners follow suit).
8, 9, 10 & 11. Bellroy Travel Wallet, Currency, Identification, Miscellaneous Cards
There is a Bellroy travel wallet in carry bag’s zippered inner pocket. I wanted to stop wearing my wallet in my back pocket where it is more accessible to pickpockets. It now takes a very concerted effort to obtain my wallet from its location in my carry bag. My travel wallet holds my passport (France wants you to have your Carte d’Identité or passport with you.), currency, driver’s license, credit cards, SNCF and TER (national and regional train systems) discount cards, and French supermarket loyalty cards.
12 & 13. Moleskine Notebook and Pen
My second most used tools in the bag. I am constantly writing notes to myself, making lists, listing directions, translating French phrases to request assistance, and writing down personal observations. One of those old police habits of always having paper and pen available and making frequent notes.
14 & 15. Folding Nylon Shopping Bags and Spare Reading Glasses for Tracy
“Paper or plastic?” is not usually an option here. If you want a bag for your groceries you need to bring one (or several) yourself. Being primarily pedestrians, running back to the apartment to get shopping bags when we suddenly remember that we needed some things for the kitchen is awkward and time-consuming. The thin, folding nylon bags take little space and are always helpful. I also carry an extra spare of Tracy’s reading glasses in my carry bag since she often doesn’t carry a purse or camera bag..
16. Olympus E-PL2 Mirrorless Digital Camera and Electronic Viewfinder with an Olympus M.Zuiko 14-150 mm Zoom Lens with lens hood and an Olympus M.Zuiko 17 mm “pancake lens” or a Olympus Tough TG820 Waterproof/Shockproof Digital Compact Camera
My most used tools since arriving in France have been my cameras. I alternate between carrying the compact Olympus TG820 when I want something lightweight in my bag all the time or in adverse weather and the Olympus Pen Camera with interchangeable lenses when I want more professional shooting options. When we decided to minimize one area was my photography. I had a larger prosumer Canon DSLR with multiple lenses which I really enjoyed. But two years ago when I carried my Canon outfit to the top of Florence’s cathedral dome, up all 463 steps, I realized that: 1.) I wasn’t getting any younger (that was a “killer” climb even without the heavy gear) and 2.) I wasn’t shooting photos professionally anymore. Today I shoot photos to share events and travels with family and friends. I decided to explore the new smaller and lighter “mirrorless” digital camera systems and return to a more classic “Robert Capa” photojournalism style of shooting images.
The carry bag allows me to “stash” the cameras out of sight in a low-key bag to avoid being targeted for camera theft and to avoid the perception of the stereotypical tourist. I always have at least the compact camera and extra batteries in my carry bag so I hope to never lose a “photo op” because I didn’t want to carry a DSLR camera with me.
17. Carabiner
I carry a carabiner on my bag to quickly secure my carry bag if I remove it while eating or having an espresso at an outdoor cafe. Anytime I take my carry bag off, the shoulder strap is looped around a chair or the table (or in a pinch, my leg) and secured with the carabiner. Anyone attempting to “grab and run” is going have to be able to outrun me while dragging along a large piece of the restaurant’s furniture attached to my bag.
18, 19, 20, & 21. Change, Money Clip, Leatherman Juice Tool, and Apartment Keys
The final parts of my EDC gear is actually located on my person, rather than in my carry bag. I carry loose change is in my pockets. Europe uses one and two Euro coins which have proven very convenient. The lowest paper denomination for Euros is a five Euro note. I carry a money clip with currency in my pocket to avoid having to reach into my bag and displaying my wallet for every purchase. I don’t want a prospective thief to constantly see where my wallet is coming and going to.
A Leatherman Juice C2 multi-tool takes care of most tool needs with needle-nose pliers, a knife blade, screwdrivers, and the very necessary corkscrew. I’ve carried this versatile pocket tool for years.
I still wear a wristwatch, another “cop habit,” although cellphones have nearly eliminated the need for one. I rotate wearing a Seiko Black Monster dive watch, a Victorinox Swiss Army Maverick II Dual Time Zone watch, a Longines dress watch that was a college graduation gift from my parents, a Citizen Eco-Drive watch that was a gift from Tracy, and a Seiko custom TMCC retirement watch, a personalized gift from Tim Dees.
My final essential is the apartment’s keys. After years of having the “school custodian’s” size rings of home, cars, and office keys, I now carry only a building key and apartment door key.
Even with the above items, There is still room in my EDC carry bag for whatever else the day’s activities might require: an umbrella, map, shopping list, Kindle, camera flash, dog’s medical records, camera tripod, flashlight, or something for Tracy.
The Eagle Scout in me has a difficult time leaving for the day without remembering to “Be Prepared” which has been serving us both well in our daily exploits here in Carcassonne.
Kiara’s People
Mom and Dad have been after me to write a blog post. Until now, I didn’t know what I should write about. But today I was thinking about all the nice people I’ve met in France.
THE VET | Dr. Broy, he’s very nice man, speaks a little English but knows his stuff about dogs. He was the doctor who made me feel so much better when I got sick. He is a neurologist and Mom really likes him as my primary doctor, so we’ll probably be seeing more of him. And he has a nice accent too! Plus, he loves me — major points for Dr. Broy.
THE AUSSIES | Last night I met a couple from Australia. At first Dad thought they were from Great Britain, but only because we rarely hear English and usually when we do they are from Great Britain. [Most of the local people in Carcassonne think we’re from Great Britain too — right, because I look like I come from a rainy climate, duh!] The lady couldn’t wait to meet me and liked that I was wearing my pink sparkly necklace, she smelled nice. The man couldn’t believe that I only weigh one kilo and told my parents that I was beautiful. They loved me! Australians must be very smart people.
THE CANADIANS | A couple of days ago we were walking across the Pont Vieux and I was not on my leash [Mom lets me walk without it if I’m very good, don’t get in anybody’s way and come when I’m called — which I always do]. About two-thirds of the way across I saw three people sitting on the side of bridge and taking pictures of each other. Two ladies and a man. I wanted to meet the lady with the short brown hair, so I wiggled my tail at Mommy and she said I could “go say hi” — it’s her code words to let me know that it’s alright if I approach strangers. The lady with the short hair and the lady with the grey hair did that squeal that some ladies do that really makes my ears happy. The man was talking with Daddy about stuff and I got cuddles from the lady with the short hair. Canadians must really be dog people, both of the ladies from Canada made happy, happy noises — which I like. When we were saying goodbye and telling them to have a nice trip, the lady with the short hair said “Oh she’s just SO cute” and I could tell that the nice people from Canada loved me!
THE JAPANESE | Our second week in France Mom and I ran into a group of tourists from Japan, about 12 people. It was rainy that day and they all had such bright colored umbrellas it looked like a carnival. They were waiting to cross the street at the light, but when I approached the corner from the grassy area one of the ladies spotted me and squealed. (I just love that!) She knelt down and Mom said “go say hi” so I ran over and put my paws on her knee, she looked at Mom with the biggest smile in the whole world. She asked Mom if she could take my picture and Mom said sure! So I got my picture taken with the nice lady from Japan, then with her and her boyfriend, then with two more of her friends! She was talking to me in a sing-songy language that I really liked, it sounded very pretty. I could tell that her and her friends, they definitely loved me! Very nice people must live in Japan.
THE FRENCH | Ever since my first walk in Gambetta Square French people have stopped to talk to Mom and Dad and to touch my head or scratch under my chin. Some have just scooped me right out of Mom’s hands and asked in French (which Mommy doesn’t really know) if they could show me to their friends. Mom and Dad usually say yes, except for when it’s a child — they worry that I’ll get loved on too hard and get hurt. I really like the people in France though — all the sounds they make are happy, happy sounds. Did you know that in France dogs are welcome to come into restaurants, stores and events like market day, people from France are real dog lovers, they treat their dogs like people — we have not seen one dog that was sick or injured or even a stray dog. And the French people are curious about me, they always want to know what kind of dog I am, how much I weight, how old I am and . . . they kiss! I know the French people really love me, because the ladies, the little girls and even the little boys always kiss me and all French people make the happy, happy noises that I like. I think that French people are very, very nice and they are good dog people.
Dad says I’m in International Diva, I don’t really know what that means, but I really do like meeting people from all over the world. It’s kinda cool and really fun, but so far everybody loves me! Maybe Dad should start carrying a guest book so that people can sign it and say where they are from, kinda like a scrapbook.
Growing Stuff
I have never been much of a plant person. I love fresh herbs for cooking and can arrange flowers, both real and not, but growing something myself has never, ever been something I’m good at. But we live in an apartment so gardening is out of the question anyway.
However, I couldn’t resist the mini herb garden kit at IKEA on our last visit. Basil, coriander and thyme seeds with the dirt and containers to put them in, all for €3,00.
I had the kit for about a week before I got brave enough to open it. It took me a while to figure out that the little brown discs were actually potting soil that had been compressed. But once I figured out how to un-compress the potting soil, the rest was pretty simple. That was two weeks ago.
This week there has been some amazing progress and I have little baby sprouts of basil, coriander and thyme. I’ve been so excited about my baby plants and have even started to rotate the pots so that they grow straight instead of leaning one direction toward the window.
I’ve watered them a bit every third day and am surprised by how fast the little sprouts grow. I was giddy with excitement when I realized this morning that in addition to the baby sprouts I already have there are even more getting ready to break through the dirt any day now.
Alan says I haven’t been so excited about growing things since I quit playing Farmville on Facebook! He’s right, of course, but I’m still pretty happy with my baby plants!
2012 Year in Review page finally live!
We have just completed the 2012 Year in Review. This is our second “year in review” and again we are amazed at how much we actually did over a twelve month time frame.
Much love to all who made our 2012 a great one!
To access the page, click the link above or go to the Year in Review drop down menu on the home page.
An Italian Point Of View 