Filing Our First Déclaration des Revenus (French Taxes)

Every May full-time residents of France are required to file la Déclaration des Revenus (Declaration of Earnings), the annual tax declaration equivalent to filing your 1040 tax form in the US.  Since France is our principal residence and we have lived here longer than a year, we are required to file a Déclaration des Revenus for the first time since moving to France.

So, how did we — with our rudimentary skills in speaking French — figure out how to file our Déclaration des Revenus?

In this case the Internet, Google Translate, expat discussion forums, and numerous professional websites were all major tools.  I’m often thankful that we have so much information available from the Internet. Neither of us can imagine the struggle of expats living abroad before such tools were readily available.  One key source for collecting information was the online English language newspaper, “The Local, France’s News in English” that reminded readers in April that a Déclaration des Revenus would be due in May.  The article listed the forms required, had advice from an expat tax expert, and listed links to La Direction Générale des Finances Publiquesthe French version of the US Treasury’s Internal Revenue Service.  The Finances Publiques’ web site allows you to download forms and even file your Déclaration des Revenus online.  (There are also expat tax preparation services in France, but ours was pretty straight forward.)

Center of Finances Publiques
Center of Finances Publiques

Due to my lack of confidence with online filing the Déclaration des Revenus in French, I elected to visit the local Centre de Finances Publiques (tax office) to pick up the needed forms.  Between my “shopping list” of forms, my very basic French, the helpful Finances Publiques’ representative’s basic English, I managed to pick-up the required forms.  Like our US Tax Return, the Déclaration des Revenus consists of several forms.  For us, we needed:

Formulaire 2042
The main tax form (like the US tax form 1040) listing our name, address, and global income.

Formulaire 2047
This form is for listing any income earned outside of France.  Our pensions are considered foreign income that must be declared on this form, as well as the total noted on the Formulaire 2042.

Formulaire 3916
On this form we list all bank accounts that are located outside of France.

Declaration  des Revenus Forms and Directions
Declaration des Revenus Forms and Directions

Filling out these three forms was actually simpler than completing many of my past US Tax Returns; but, of course, these forms and directions are written in French and I had to struggle with the language barrier.  Yes, French tax forms share with US tax forms the ability to create stress and give the preparer a total feeling of confusion and inadequacy.

Using an English-French dictionary, Google Translate, and a tax help guide from “The Connexion:  France’s English-Language Newspaper” written for British expats, it took about two days to (hopefully) correctly complete the documents.  Tracy double-checked the translations, Dollar-to-Euro conversions, directions, math, documents, and finally concurred that we had now had all the forms ready to submit.

The next big question was:  to whom or where do we submit Déclaration des Revenus?  Unlike US tax forms, there was no mailing address on any on the forms, nor directions for how to file.  So we gathered up all the completed forms and visited the local tax office again.  Tracy spotted a large mail box outside the office door with a sign marked for Déclaration des Revenus.  But first I visited with the Finances Publiques’ representative again and asked her to double-check that our Déclaration was complete.  (Thankfully the representative spoke some English, which was extremely helpful to me.) She asked me to include a copy of our 2013 rental contract with our Déclaration des Revenus and then the package would be complete.

We had a quick round trip back to the apartment, made a copy of our lease, and returned to speak with the same Finances Publiques’ representative for one last final review. The representative believed the package was complete now and officially accepted the Déclaration des Revenus. Yet another milestone first with living in France.

So what happens next?

Unlike the US, no payment is ever sent with the Déclaration des Revenus.  The Finances Publiques reviews the financial situation on the forms and later sends an Avis d’Imposition (a tax bill) or an Avis de Non-imposition (certificate of non-taxable income) usually around mid to late August for the amount of taxes due. Since it is our first filing, we are told that we could receive a response from the Finances Publique as late as November or December 

Now for the complexity.  The United States is one of the few countries that taxes on the basis of citizenship rather than residence.  The United States requires that US citizens file a yearly tax return with the US Internal Revenue Service as long as their income (earned in the US or earned abroad) is over $9,000. Americans working abroad are generally exempt from paying tax on their first $97,600 in foreign earned income, but they are still required to file a return. 

Tracy and I do not earn income in France and we previously filed our US tax return in April.  

To avoid double taxation for citizens living abroad, there is a tax treaty between the US and France, the “Convention Between the Government of the United States of America and the Government of the French Republic for the Avoidance of Double Taxation and the Prevention of Fiscal Evasion with Respect to Taxes on Income and Capital (1994).”  The biggest issue for us addressed in the treaty is that pensions from a US source is taxed only by the United States and not by France.  So, in theory, we are only required to pay our US taxes, however, in actually application we may still receive a tax bill.  

This is our first time filing a Déclaration des Revenus with Franceso we are interested to see exactly how this will work out for us.  Every expat’s tax situation is unique unto itself.  So we may have no French Impôts sur le Revenu (income tax) liability, a small French income tax bill (for non-pension interest or dividends), or no income tax liability but a bill for social service fees (if you call it a “fee” it doesn’t fall under the “tax” exemption.)

We will tell you about the outcome sometime between August and November when we hear from La Direction Générale des Finances Publiques.  Keep your fingers crossed that we only get a Avis de Non-imposition (certificate of non-taxable income).

 

Cartes de Séjour Arrived To Help Celebrate Our First Year In France

Following the Prefect Office’s instructions that we received after we submitted our applications to renew our Titres de Séjour (residency permits) [First Renewal of Our Residency Permit (Titre de Séjour)], we e-mailed the prefecture after 30 days to inquire whether our application has been approved and Cartes de Séjour (residency cards) issued.

So after an anxious 30 days (we expected the approval to be pro forma with the initial request in the US for a long-term visa being the most challenging, but it’s never good to make such a broad assumption of an automatic approval when immigration law and bureaucracy are involved) I translated an inquiry into French and e-mailed the Préfecture de l’Aude here in Carcassonne.  I immediately received an auto-response advising me that the message was received by the Prefecture and to expect an answer within 5 working days.  I put my “Type A” personality back in retirement mode and told myself, five more days to wait was not unreasonable.

However, I received back within two hours an e-mail response from an actual person telling me our request was in the hands of a real person and requested our 10 digit identification number from our Récépissés de Demande de Carte de Séjour (receipts of application for residency permit.)  I referred to our  Récépissés, located the ID numbers in the upper right corners where the e-mail said the numbers would be found, and e-mailed the information back to the Prefecture.

La Préfecture de l'Aude à Carcassonne
La Préfecture de l’Aude à Carcassonne

The following morning before 9:30 a.m. there was an e-mail from the Prefecture telling me that our application is approved, our new Cartes de Séjour are at the Prefecture, and to come and pick the cards up April 1. We were asked to bring with us our Récépissés de Demande de Carte de Séjour and current Titres de Séjour (residency permits) which are “sticker” documents affixed inside our US passports.

So April 1, Tracy and I were up early to be at the Prefecture at 9 a.m. when the doors open to the residency permit office. After a little bit confusion and language difficulties at the reception area we received a yellow “Post-It” note with the number “4” written on it and sent to the waiting area outside the residency permit office.  This was unusual because on previous visits at the prefecture, like at the DMV back in the States, we received a printed number tab to match the electronic number display next to the office door.  After waiting a couple of minutes the electronic display turned on and showed “500.”  That didn’t look right.  Having a number “4” in our hands we decided we misunderstood something in the French.  After checking back at the reception desk, the receptionist took us into the Estranger Passeport (foreign passport) office and created an informal line with us and other visitors also holding “Post-It” note numbers. We quickly moved up in the line short line and met with the friendly Prefect representative who accepted our Récépissés de Demande de Carte de Séjour and passports. The representative very efficiently had us sign a form accepting our new Cartes de Séjour and handed us our cards and a receipt for our records. We were in and out of the Prefecture in 20 minutes.

Cartes de Séjour
Cartes de Séjour

The Carte de Séjour is rather “High-Tech” with security features like a microchip with biometric information, a “watermark photo” that matches the subject’s photo, hologram, shifting colors, micro-printing, République Française watermarks on the laminate, the subject’s signature, and check digits.  It’s a very professional looking document, although a rather unattractive pastel pink and blue in color.  The card lists our French ID number, expiration date, nationality, place and date of birth, gender, and current address in France.

Reverse of Carte de Séjour
Reverse of Carte de Séjour

So we are starting our second year in France feeling fairly accomplished with successfully navigating French bureaucracy and obtaining our Cartes de Séjour without any snags. For our renewal next year we are planning the same strategy of starting early and being well prepared with all the documents required.

 

 

 

Carcassonne – Au Panthéon Photo Project

Tracy and I participated in the Au Panthéon Photo Project that is visiting 8 national monuments in France collecting portraits of visitors to later use as an art project of portraits covering the enormous scaffolding system that will be surrounding the Pantheon in Paris during its renovation this year.  The Centre des Monuments Nationaux commissioned contemporary artist JR to create a participatory work inspired by his Inside Out projects, “encapsulating the humanistic and universal values embodied by the Pantheon.”

Mobile Photo Booth for Inside Out Project
Mobile Photo Booth for Inside Out Project

From March 5 to 29, The Inside Out project’s unique mobile photo booth is visiting the Basilica Cathedral of Saint-Denis near Paris, home to the royal necropolis and its collection of 70 sculpted recumbent statues; the medieval city of la Cité de Carcassonne; Angers Castle, home of the Apocalypse tapestry, the largest known tapestry from the Middle Ages; the Carnac Megaliths near the Morbihan Gulf, the largest group of standing stones in the world, a key place in European prehistory; the three towers of La Rochelle, facing the Atlantic as some of the most important medieval maritime fortifications; the Palais du Tau in Reims, the royal and episcopal residence associated with the coronation of 32 French kings; the Savoye villa à Poissy and its modernist architecture by Le Corbusier; and returning to the Pantheon in Paris, the masterpiece of the architect Soufflot, located on the Montagne Sainte-Geneviève.  People unable to come to one of these locations may still participate by taking a photo at home and uploading it to http://www.au-pantheon.fr/en/.

According to the Au Panthéon website, “The portraits that best represent the diversity of the contemporary world will be used to create a mosaic that will be visible around the drum beneath the dome, and on certain places within the monument. The aim is to use all of the portraits in the final work. It will be inaugurated on Tuesday 22 April 2014.”

During our visit the mobile photo both produced poster-sized prints of our images like a giant Polaroid camera.  We added out photos to the temporary mosaic of photos on the sidewalk outside the barbacane surrounding the Château in La Cite De Carcassonne.  Although there was a lengthy line to participate in the free process, we had a great time visiting with an American expats family from Oregon currently living outside Aix-en-Provence, our upstairs apartment neighbor and her friend also visiting from Oregon, and a French women recently returned from Miami where she was working for an US company.  Sami the MinPin enjoyed the attention from the crowd as well.

We were two of the 288 portraits taken during the day at Carcassonne.  The link to the Au Panthéon photo gallery is located at http://www.au-pantheon.fr/en/portraits/carcassonne/.

Some of the 288 portraits taken in Carcassonne, including ours.
Some of the 288 portraits taken in Carcassonne, including ours.
Tracy, Sami, and Alan photographed by the local newspaper, Midi Libre, at the Au Panthéon event.
Tracy, Sami, and Alan photographed by the local newspaper, Midi Libre, at the Au Panthéon event.

 

Since we have plans to be in Paris in June, we are looking forward to seeing the finished art project and possibly even our own images displayed at the Pantheon.

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Carcassonne: Local Michelin “Starred” Restaurants 2014

The 2014 Michelin Guide was just been released and that is big news in France.  (Michelin Guide to Restaurants.)  National and local newspapers have been publishing articles about the restaurants that have earned or lost stars, the process of Michelin’s restaurant inspectors, the inspectors’ unpublished criteria, the growing number of women chefs on the list, and the state of fine dining in the world.  (Food Buzz: Michelin Guide France 2014.)

It has been said that France anticipates the annual gastronomic “red guide” with its ratings the way the US looks forward to the Academy Awards.  World renowned French chef Paul Bocuse, who has been honored by the Culinary Institute of America as Chef of the Century, once said, “Michelin is the only guide that counts.”  French Chef Bernard Loiseau in 2003 committed suicide in part because of rumors that his restaurant was to be demoted  from three-stars to two.

Michelin Guide France 2014
Michelin Guide France 2014

France now has 27 three-stars restaurants (one new addition this year), 79 two-stars restaurants (six new additions), and with the addition of 57 new restaurants for 2014 there are 504 one-star restaurants. (A Complete List: France’s New Michelin Star Diners.)  For comparison, there are 10 three-stars restaurants in the US:  7 in New York, 2, in San Francisco, and 1 in Chicago.  There are another approximately 230 two and one-starred rated restaurants also in the US. (The Michelin Guide: Making Top Chefs Reach For The Stars.)  Japan actually has more three-stars restaurants than France with 28, a matter causing indignation with the Michelin Guide for many French.

The “star” ratings means:

* * * Three stars reward exceptional cuisine where diners eat extremely well, often superbly. Distinctive dishes are precisely executed, using superlative ingredients. Worth a special journey.

* * Two stars denote excellent cuisine, skillfully and carefully crafted dishes of outstanding quality. Worth a detour.

* One star indicates a very good restaurant in its category, offering cuisine prepared to a consistently high standard. A good place to stop on your journey.

I was grocery shopping at the local supermarché and was surprised to see a display of the red-covered Michelin Guides.  Apparently the Michelin Guide isn’t a specialty text for “foodies” and gourmands but a required best-selling reference for everyday people in France.

Michelin Guide Display
Michelin Guide Display

Our local Michelin “starred” restaurants near Carcassonne are:

Parc,  Two-stars, Chef Franck Putelet, 80 Chemin des Anglais, at the base of hill below the medieval le Cité de Carcassonne.

La Barbacane, One-star, Chef Jérôme Ryon, located in Hôtel de la Cité within the walls of the medieval citadel of le Cité de Carcassonne.

Hôtel de la Cité
Hôtel de la Cité
La Barbacane
La Barbacane

Le Domiane d”Auriac, One-star, Chef Philippe Deschamps, Route de Saint-Hilaire, at the edge of Carcassonne.

La Bergerie Aragon, One-star, Chef Fabien Galibert, 12 kilometers North of Carcassonne in the village of Aragon.

Le Puits du Trésor, One-star, Chef Jean-Marc Boyer, 12 kilometer north of Carcassonne in the village of Lastours.  Above the village are of the few original Cathar castles left.

L’Ambrosia, One-star, Chef Daniel Minet, 8.5 kilometer north-west of Carcassonne.

So which Michelin rated restaurants have Tracy and I experienced in France?  At this point none, although we are considering several for special occasions like our anniversary.

While lunches at many of these elite establishments are not outrageously expensive, dinners can have a substantial cost.  La Barbacane’s lunch with wine and coffee is now priced at €36 each, about $100 total with today’s exchange rate.  La Barbacane’s current seasonal dinner – Gnocchi Parisienne Gaude Mornay in Beaufort with cream and truffle stew Magnatum Pico; Black winter truffle salad, bread and truffle chicken jus; Scallops Jacques Breton with Mélanosporum truffle, potato Pays de Sault and cream leeks sauce “carbonara;” Veal shank confit and stuffed milk Orloff nuts, smoked ham and Comté old heart endive with truffle; Truffled cheese trolley; Pure Caribbean chocolate mousse and black truffles and light nuts nougat cream, and milk foam arlette – is €140 each, about $400 for the two of us.  I’m not certain if beverages are included.  Perhaps it’s like the old saying, “If you have to ask you can’t afford it.”  A Michelin rated restaurant dinner is, for this retired couple on a fixed income, certainly a planned and carefully budgeted extravagance.  In the mean time, we can admire culinary excellence from afar like admiring the latest model sports cars.

Good thing we love the take-out shawarma at the nearby Moroccan kebab restaurant while watching Anthony Bourdain and trying in the many small “holes-in-the-wall” cafes, brasseries, and bistros in Carcassonne.

First Renewal of Our Residency Permit (Titre de Séjour)

Tracy and I are fast approaching our first anniversary of living in France.  This anniversary requires that we renew our Residency Permit, our Titre de Séjour.  Although the French government has been considering creating long-stay visa with a 4 year expiration date, those have not been approved yet.  So for at least the first five years of residency, a Titre de Séjour must be renewed annually. (France Mulls Longer Visas for Expats.)

Titre de Sejour
Titre de Sejour

When we first arrived in France, we needed to immediately make appointments with the Immigration Office, OFII (L’Office Français de l’Immigration et de l’Intégration, in Montpellier for a review of our paperwork and a medical check up. (See our previous blog post OFII Medical and Titre de Sejour.)  But our renewal needs to be submitted to the local Prefect Office having jurisdiction over the district in which we live rather than at the OFII .  A Prefect Office is the representative of the French national government and Ministry of the Interior at the local level.  Visiting the Prefect Office is like visiting a local “Federal Building” in the US.  There are 101 districts in France, each with its own Prefecture.   Since the city of Carcassonne resides within the District of Aude, our Prefect Office is the Préfecture de l’Aude.   No train ride is required to another city like when we had to visit OFII in Montpellier.  Conveniently  for us, the Préfecture is located walking distance from our apartment at 52 Rue Jean Bringer in the historical Bastide of Carcassonne.

Préfets de l'Aude
Préfets de l’Aude

The Préfect de l’Aude is located within the former Bishopric Palace of Carcassonne’s Catholic Diocese that was originally built in 1760.  The Prefecture Office was moved into the building after the establishment of the French Consulate system of government after 1799.

PRÉFECTURE DE L'AUDE À CARCASSONNE
PRÉFECTURE DE L’AUDE À CARCASSONNE

Although Tracy and I haven’t yet had any difficulties with the legendary French bureaucracy (in fact government offices have been surprisingly helpful and efficient to date) I wanted to get started early to hopefully “head off” any potential problems.

In January 2014, three months before our Titre de Séjour’s expiration date, I went to the Prefect Office to pick up a renewal form and make an appointment. I wanted enough time to allow for requesting documents from the US and their mailing time.   It’s a pretty building, but “government offices” are “government offices” around the world with the feel of waiting at the DMV or Social Security office.  I was given a number and directed to the waiting area.  While sitting in the waiting room I had a nice conversation in English with an Italian expat and his Australian girlfriend.  He was helping her renew her residency.  Sadly, they were called in by their representative before I could learn many details of their immigration experiences.  But I was also quickly called in to see my representative.  She did not speak English, but between my pre-translated request letter and fledgling French I was able to pick up the application and make a return appointment for February 28.

The renewal application was a single page asking for our name and address in France and a list of supporting documents with only nine items. The application asked us to bring the original documents for the Prefect to inspect and photocopies to submit with the application form .  Of the nine items on the supporting documents list, 0ne item doesn’t apply, two overlap, and two are “stationery” items.  It appears to be a simple process.  In addition to the application form we also needed to produce:

Applications and supporting documents
Applications and supporting documents

1.  The current  Titre de Séjour, residency permitto be renewed.  Our initial Titre de Séjour is actually a “sticker” that OFII attached to a page in each of our passports (which are required as Item 2.)

2.   US passport valid through the end of the visa.

3.   Any documents of changes in civil status (marriage, divorce, widowed).  This does not apply as there had obviously been no changes in status for either of us.

4.  Proof of financial independence.  Documents that prove we are financially stable and independent.  We have bank statements, letters of recommendations, and pension statements.

5.  Statement of honor (Attestation sur l’Honneur) in our handwriting that we will “not to exercise any professional activities” in France without prior authorization.  Basically a statement that we will not be working or seek ing employment in France.  We located an online a sample letter of the correct format to use and translated our letters into French.

6.  Proof of domicile by evidence of a recent electricity bill.   Jason, our landlord, provides utilities as part of our rent so we do not have an electricity bill.  Jason was kind enough to provide the apartment’s power bill, his identification information, and his own  Attestation sur l’Honneur to verify our residency as his tenants.

7.  Four passport photos taken at the convenient photo booth at the local Monoprix supermarket.

8.  Stamped, self-addressed envelope.

9.  Tax Stamps (timbres fiscaux) for payment in the amount of €106 each.  The timbres fiscaux were purchased at a local convenience store, a tabac, designated to sell tax stamps.

 Tax Stamps (timbres fiscaux)
Tax Stamps (timbres fiscaux)

Tracy, the queen of organization, prepared our individual dossiers of application forms and supporting documents that follows the list right down the line.

We arrived at the Préfect about 10 minutes early for our appointment and were given slips with numbers, but escorted directly to the Residency Permit office.  There was a young couple completing their appointment ahead of us.  It was obvious from the discussion and body language that they had apparently came to their appointment without all their necessary documents and were sadly leaving empty-handed.

Tracy and I were invited into a cubicle and our Préfect representative very professionally went through our application and dossiers of supporting documents.  It was obviously she was very pleased with Tracy’s organization and efficiency with the presentation.  Our representative did require “proof of civil status” which we wrongly assumed we didn’t need  since there had been no change.  However we also brought to the appointment our “mobile file cabinet” binder/briefcase with originals of all our essential documents and we were able to produce the marriage certificate that our representative required.  She allowed me to make a quick photocopy and add it to our applications.

At the conclusion of our appointment the representative gave us each an elaborate Récépissé de Demande de Carte de Séjour, a receipt that allows us to continue to live in France until final disposition of our applications by the Préfect.

The representative also gave us an e-mail address at the Préfect to contact after 30 days to inquire if our  Cartes de Séjour have arrived for pick-up at the Préfect.  My understanding is that the renewal (if granted) that will replace our initial Titre de Séjour, residency permits “stickers” and would be issued in the form of an identification card, a Carte de Séjour Think of the Carte de Séjour as the French equivalent of an US Citizenship and Immigration Services’ (USCIS)  “Green Card,” although a “Green Card” represents permanent residency in the US and this Carte de Séjour will need to be renewed again in another year after issue.

From beginning to end the entire appointment took 30 minutes.  Our representative was friendly, helpful, and very efficient.  Overall it was as good of an experience as possible aided, I believe, by our efforts to be well prepared and organized to help make our representative’s job as easy as possible.  Now we wait for the next 30 days and hope for a positive answer to our requests.

Récépissé de Demande de Carte de Séjour
Récépissé de Demande de Carte de Séjour

Carcassonne: Le Transporteur d’Images on the Canal du Midi

February 2014 brought the traveling photography exhibition, Le Transporteur d’Images (“Carrier of Pictures”), to Carcassonne.  The Transporteur d’Images is a mobile art gallery based in a converted river barge that is sailing on the Canal du Midi.  The 150 mile long (241 km) Canal du Midi was built in the 17th century and connects with other rivers and canals to create a continuous waterway from Mediterranean to the Atlantic Ocean.  The Canal du Midi, has been designated a UNESCO World Heritage site since 1996.

Map of Canal du Midi. (Image courtesy of Wikimedia Commons)
Map of Canal du Midi.
(Image courtesy of Wikimedia Commons)

Captain Frédéric Journo with crewman/artist Gauthier Fleuri uses the traveling art exhibition as a method of creating awareness that historic trees lining the canal have been destroyed.  Many trees along the route have had to be removed due to a spread of canker disease.  Since setting sail from Sète in late July 2012, the Transporteur d’Images has raised €10,000 in donations for re-planting trees along this waterway with the sale of pictures, books, and posters.

Le Transporteur d’Images was one those unusual surprises that makes living in Carcassonne such a pleasure.

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Le Transporteur d'Images
Le Transporteur d’Images

Carcassonne: Carnaval de Carcassonne 2014

Our local version of Mardi Gras, the Carnaval de Carcassonne occurred over the weekend of February 15 (a few weeks early from the traditional Fat Tuesday – Shrove Tuesday start of Lent.)  It was a wonderful combination of Burning Man, Carnival, and a Disney Parade starting at the town square of Place Carnot, through the streets of La Bastide, down the Rue de Verdun, across Square Gambetta, down Boulevard Camille Pelletan to a final bonfire with masked ball under the stars starring five different bands at Le Dome.  There were an amazing variety of costumes (ranging from medieval traditional, outrageous, risqué, modern, and child friendly), music, singing, dancing, with lots and lots of confetti along the way.  (Tracy is still finding confetti that made it home.)

Carnaval de Carcassonne Poster
Carnaval de Carcassonne Poster

While not nearly as big as Mardi Gras in New Orleans, Carnival in Venice, or Carnival in Rio; the celebration had a “home town” flavor (like “Jack’s Carnival” or “Hometown Christmas” in Sparks, Nevada) and was major fun enjoyed by children and adults alike.   The expected crowd was in excess of 16,000 people.

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While the Carnival in Nice, Rio, New Orleans, and Venice are world-renowned, this was an exceptional event to attend especially because of the intimacy of a being a local celebration in a smaller city.

Alan and a traditional Masquerader at Carnaval de Carcassonne, 2014
Alan and a traditional Masquerader at Carnaval de Carcassonne, 2014

Carcassonne: Place Carnot, the Town Square

One of our favorite places in Carcassonne to spent time is in Place Carnot, the central town square near the middle of the Bastide Saint Louis (also called the Ville Basse – lower city), the modern city of Carcassonne that lays below the medieval citadel of  la Cité de Carcassonne.  (Google Earth:  43°12’48.39″ N   2°21’06.21″ E)

Bastide map indicating Place Carnot's location.
Bastide map indicating Place Carnot’s location.

Place” is French for “square.”  Place Carnot, while one of many squares scattered throughout town, is the “heart” of the city, the central square since medieval times that has been the main meeting place and market for the lower town.  Place Carnot is where the open-air vegetable, fruit, and flower market is held every Tuesday, Thursday, and Saturday.  This is the place to sit and enjoy a morning café creme or afternoon Pastis at one of the many cafés’ outdoor tables and watch people walk past.  Place Carnot is where you can enjoy watching children chase pigeons past the Fountain of Neptune or skate on the seasonal skating rink that is assembled during the Christmas season.  This is where many free musical events and an occasional wine tasting are hosted during the year.  If you have an image in your mind of leisurely South of France town life, this is where that image would play out.

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The history of the square is very rich.  “At the junction of (the main streets of rue de Verdun and rue Georges Clemenceau) . . . , royal surveyors marked out a large square. After 1355, the square was reduced to the size we see today. By doing so, Rue Pinel and Rue de l’Aigle d’Or were created. After the fire in 1622 which destroyed more than 150 houses and the arcades filled with shops round the square, a new corn market (now the covered market) was built on the site of the Officiality. This cleared the square. On 27th December 1792, during the French Revolution, Jeanne Establet, or Joan the Black, was guillotined here with two of her accomplices. Two years later, Father Henri Beille, Vicar of Alet, a non-juring priest became the only victim of the Reign of Terror when he was executed. During the Napoleonic Empire, the square was renamed Place Impériale. It became Place Royale during the Restoration of the Monarchy, then Place Dauphine, Place de la Liberté and Place de la Révolution, Place aux Herbes (1852) and, finally, Place Carnot (1894).” From “Our French Retreat” 

My understanding is that the square is named in honor of Nicolas Léonard Sadi Carnot, French military engineer and physicist, known as the father of thermodynamics.  However I have had difficulties confirming that fact.

The surface is a mix of paving stones inset into square or spiral patterns.  At the center of Place Carnot is the marble Fountain of Neptune (La Fontaine de Neptune).  The fountain is surrounded by a rose-colored marble basin from the village of Caunes-Minervois which has been producing marble since Roman times.  Neptune was sculpted by Italian artist Barata and his son and finished around 1771.  Beneath Neptune are marble figures of dolphins and naiads.  Tracy and I joke that after seeing the stunning sculptures in Florentine and Roman fountains, Place Carnot’s somewhat anorexic Neptune appears to have been created by a “junior varsity” sculptor.  Our research into the additional works by Barata has yielded nothing.  We wonder if he was a “one hit wonder” in his day.

Fountain of Neptune (La Fontaine de Neptune), Place Carnot, Carcassonne
Fountain of Neptune (La Fontaine de Neptune), Place Carnot, Carcassonne

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The perimeter of the square is lined with trees and at each of the four corners is a small lion-headed fountain in the base of a candelabra of street lights with copper shades.  Around the outer perimeter are numerous cafés and restaurants with their outdoor tables, chairs, umbrellas and awnings; clothing, cosmetics, tobacco, and food shops; four banks (including ours); and a pharmacy.

Place Carnot is great location to stop and sit, have a café-espresso, and enjoy the sun on your face (especially at La Petit Moka, our current favorite café.)  Or you may order another Pastis and silently toast Joan the Black who met her final fate in the square by guillotine.

La Petit Moka Café, Place Carnot, Carcassonne
La Petit Moka Café, Place Carnot, Carcassonne
Adam, Tracy, Kiara, Alan, and Liz take a wine, beer, and champagne break in Place Carnot in the Bastide of Carcassonne
Adam, Tracy, Kiara, Alan, and Liz take a wine, beer, and champagne break in Place Carnot in the Bastide of Carcassonne

French Beverages, Part 7: Affligem de Noël Beer

While walking Sami the MinPin around the Bastide Saint Louis in Carcassonne during the holiday season, Sami insisted several times that I stop and enjoy a Affligem de Noël Christmas beer.  I was very appreciative of her encouragement.

Affligem is not actually a French brand, it’s Belgian from the Op-Ale Brewery in the Flemish village of Opwijk and made under license for the 11th century Benedictine Abbey (monastery) in Affligem.  But Affligem de Noël was the most commonly seen seasonal Christmas beer in Carcassonne with signs advertising its availability in many café and bar windows.  http://www.affligembeer.be/

Affligem de Noël
Affligem de Noël

While I was expecting a noticeably spiced Christmas beer (like the Red Nose Holiday Wassail Beer, a favorite of mine at Great Basin Brewery in Reno, Nevada), the Affligem de Noël had a very subtle taste of spices, fruits, and honey.  This draft beer has a translucent, auburn color and a great aroma. The Affligem de Noël was refreshing and surprisingly would also make a good summer beer.  Like most Christmas beers, this one had a slightly higher percentage of alcohol at 6.2% ABV.

If I understand the tradition correctly, there is a different Affligem de Noël beer brewed for the Christmas season every year.  So after my positive experience with the 2013 beer, I am now looking forward to Affligem de Noël 2014.

Affligem de Noël
Affligem de Noël