Rome with Casey and Megan: RyanAir, Pantheon, Colosseum, Roman Forum, and Trevi Fountain

“All roads indeed lead to Rome, but theirs also is a more mystical destination, some borne of which no traveller knows the name, some city, they all seem to hint, even more eternal.” ~ Richard Le Gallienne

Arriving at Aéroport de Marseille Provence (Marseille Provence Airport) we intend to fly Ryanair for the first time.  Tracy has seen several reality TV shows which featured Ryanair’s uncompromising rules which allows the airplane to offer its cut-rate fares.  When Casey and Megan were still in the US we had sent Ryanair’s strict carry-on baggage rules:  one carry-on bag no larger than 55 cm x 40 cm x 20 cm (21.6″ x 15.7″ x 7.8″) plus one small bag of up to 35 cm x 20 cm x 20 cm (13.7″ x 7.9″ x 7.9″). (Tracy and I purchased new backpacks specifically to meet Ryanair’s requirements.)  But even this these notoriously small bag requirements, Ryanair does not guarantee that your bag will be allowed in the cabin.  If there is no more room in the overhead bins bags are stored in the hold for free.  Oversized luggage will be charged at substantial additional fees.  The reality show Tracy watched had numerous incidents of displeased passengers with oversized bags being billed additional fees or denied boarding and some passengers missing flights due to Ryanair’s strict check-in policy.  Ryanair has a 98% on-time departure record that comes with a requirement to have passport visas verified, passing through security screening, and admission to the boarding area at least 45 minutes before departure.

We were pleasantly surprised.  Although we showed up substantially early (concerned about an overflowing airport due to the train strike) we passed through easily and were treated very professionally by the Ryanair staff.  Horror stories aside, we were pleased with traveling Ryanair and decided to make use of their discount flights in the future.

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It was a quick flight to Ciampino–Aeroporto Internazionale (Rome Ciampino Airport) [about 12 kilometer (7.5 mi) south of Rome] we took the bus to the tram into Termini Station and a street car out to our hotel.  Tracy found a wonderful hotel in a suburb of Rome, while it was about a 30 minute ride outside central Rome, we had large comfortable rooms, a breakfast buffet, and paid “locals” prices at wonderful family trattorias in the hotel’s neighborhood.  We were treated wonderfully, paid a quarter of the cost for meals in Paris, and we kept wanting to return to try different dishes on the menu.  All that and the carafes of vino della casa (house wines) were inexpensive and delicious.

Roman Street Car
Roman Street Car

The Metropolitana di Roma (Rome subway) with only two “crossed” lines are not nearly as comprehensive as Paris, but most of the major sights are accessible off the subway.  Although Tracy and I have used the Rome bus system, we didn’t use it this trip.

We had a great time exploring the Roman Forum and the Colosseum. Although the rain would start and stop during the day, it helped to minimize the crowds.  It really is a “small world,” our friends Ron and Cyndy Coscuna just happen to be in Rome and we met them near the Fontana del Pantheon for lunch and later watched the rain fall through the oculus in the ceiling of the Pantheon.

We did get caught in a torrential downpour after leaving the Pantheon. Megan stopped at a little store to pick up a sweatshirt, Tracy and I headed next door to the bar to find refuge from the storm. When Casey and Megan joined us they found seats next to a couple from South Africa and had a nice chat while the bartender and owner tried to mix up a White Russian for Megan. With nearly four times the alcohol content, they finally succeeded. Megan stayed fairly warm afterwards. The owner didn’t quite believe that Megan was old enough to have the drink. Tracy reassured him that she was indeed old enough to order alcohol and though still a bit doubtful, he delivered her drink to the table. He did, however, need reassurance an additional six times. Yes, she really does look that young!

 

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Casey and Megan stopped to throw coins in the Trevi Fountain to observe the tradition that throwing coins with ensure you will return to Rome.  Unfortunately the fountain was largely covered with scaffolding for refurbishing.  But that gave Casey and Megan another reason to return to Rome in the future, to see the fountain flowing in it’s full glory.

After exploring Roma, it was time to visit the smallest country in the world, Vatican City.

 

Part 1:  Paris with Casey and Megan: Notre Dame, Palace of Versaille, Eiffel Tower, Love Locks, and the Louvre

Part 2:  Marseille with Casey and Megan:  Train Strike, Chateau d’If, Vieux-Port, Phare de Sainte Marie, and Notre-Dame-de-la-Garde

Part 3:  Rome with Casey and Megan:  RyanAir, Pantheon, Colesseum, Roman Forum, and Trevi Fountain

Part 4:  Vatican City with Casey and Megan:  Vatican Museum, Sistine Chapel, Necropolis Tour, Saint Peter’s Basilica, and Saint Peter’s Square

Part 5:  Carcassonne with Casey and Megan: La Cité De Carcassonne, Château de Montségur, Mirepoix

 

Marseille with Casey and Megan: Train Strike, Chateau d’If, Vieux-Port, Phare de Sainte Marie, and Notre-Dame-de-la-Garde

“No, my dear Dantes. I know perfectly well that you are innocent. Why else would you be here? If you were truly guilty, there are a hundred prisons in France where they would lock you away. But Chateau d’If is where is they put the ones they’re ashamed of.” ~ Dorleac, The Count of Monte Cristo 

After arriving at Marne la Vallée-Chessy train station outside of Paris to catch our Ouigo high-speed train to Marseille we are told that a surprise rail worker strike has caused that train and two prior trains’ cancellation.  (The strike is eventually 10 days, the longest rail strike since 2008.)  Casey and Megan were getting a truly French experience of dealing with a large-scale rail strike.  We were told there was a chance of getting on high-speed TGV train still scheduled to depart in 2 1/2 hours.  IF it arrived we may be able to get on board.  IF we got inside and the doors were able to close we could go as far as the train continued to run. IF. We decided to “take the shot” at getting on that train.  In the mean time we “camped out” at the front of the line, talked, played cards, and worked on Soduku puzzles.

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The train did arrive and we were able to squeeze into the hallway of a first-class carriage.  Other passengers were friendly with the “Life Boat” atmosphere and we stood or sat on the hallway floor for the first 2 1/2 hours of the nearly 900 kilometer trip.  About an hour out of Marseille departing passengers allowed us to finally get seats and we enjoyed the first-class luxury for the final hour of the trip, visiting with our neighbors in the cabin who were en route to the Côte d’Azur.  They were very friendly to their “refugee” seat-mates crashing first-class.  One gentleman was a French engineer who Casey had an animated discussion about their shared profession.  We would later read in the newspapers about people being stranded in rail stations for days and marvel that we were able to “pull off the impossible” and get one of the few remaining working trains to Marseille.

Marseille was completely unexpected.  I thought the city would be a gritty, slightly run-down port town.  Instead in was a clean, intriguing city that reminded me of San Francisco or Seattle. After wandering through the city I now understand why in 2013 it was awarded the title of Europe’s Capital of Culture.

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Our literary adventure was taking the boat out to Chateau d’Id, the historic prison off the Vieux-Port (Old Port) of Marseille, to experience the setting of Dumas’ fictional “The Count of Monte Cristo” and “The man in the Iron Mask” in real life.  Reminiscent of visits to the former Alcatraz Federal Prison Museum off the coast of San Francisco.

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Casey and Megan enjoyed taking the petit train up to Basilique de Notre Dame de la Garde located at the highest point in Marseille, about 150 meters (490 feet) above the south side of the Vieux-Port (Old Port), visiting the Musée Cantini with a collection including Picasso, Matisse, and Cézanne, and the strikingly unique Musée des Civilisations de l’Europe et de la Méditerranée [Museum of Civilisations from Europe and the Mediterranean (MuCEM).]

Notre-Dame de la Garde
Notre-Dame de la Garde
Museum of European and Mediterranean Civilizations (MuCEM)
Museum of European and Mediterranean Civilizations (MuCEM)

After a too-short visit and a sample of great seafood, we committing ourselves to returning in the near future and exploring more of Marseille at a future date.  We now headed by bus (the rail strike was still going on) to Aéroport de Marseille Provence (Marseille Provence Airport) to catch Ryanair for Rome.

 

Part 1:  Paris with Casey and Megan: Notre Dame, Palace of Versaille, Eiffel Tower, Love Locks, and the Louvre

Part 2:  Marseille with Casey and Megan:  Train Strike, Chateau d’If, Vieux-Port, Phare de Sainte Marie, and Notre-Dame-de-la-Garde

Part 3:  Rome with Casey and Megan:  RyanAir, Pantheon, Colesseum, Roman Forum, and Trevi Fountain

Part 4:  Vatican City with Casey and Megan:  Vatican Museum, Sistine Chapel, Necropolis Tour, Saint Peter’s Basilica, and Saint Peter’s Square

Part 5:  Carcassonne with Casey and Megan: La Cité De Carcassonne, Château de Montségur, Mirepoix

Paris with Casey and Megan: Notre Dame, Château de Versailles, Eiffel Tower, Love Locks, and the Louvre

“Paris is always a good idea.” ~ Audrey Hepburn

Our son Casey and his fiancée Megan became our second set of visitors to France.  The trip was to celebrate Casey’s graduation with his Chemical Engineering degree, his hiring as an engineer with the State of Nevada’s Chemical Accident Prevention Program, and his engagement to Megan.  So many important milestones to celebrate, but we were mainly looking forward to seeing Casey and meeting Megan for the first time.  Tracy had extensively pre-planned the trip in the attempt to try to visit everywhere Casey and Megan wanted to visit.  Tracy had the reservations made and confirmations organized to minimize the stress of traveling.  Tracy and I subscribed to the  “Fast and Light” school of travel with lightweight backpacks and making use of discount travel options as much as possible.

Tracy's collection of tickets, passes, reservations, and confirmations.
Tracy’s collection of tickets, passes, reservations, and confirmations.
Tracy and my "Fast and Light" backpacks that are "Ryanair" size approved.
Tracy and my “Fast and Light” backpacks that are “Ryanair” size approved.

We left Carcassonne the day prior to Casey and Megan’s departure from the US to be able to meet them in Paris.  We took the SNCF train to Montpellier and transferred to the Ouigo TGV high-speed train to Paris.  We love the economy of the Ouigo where we can often get a trans-France train trip for as little as €10.

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The Ouigo rolled into the Gare de Marne-la-Vallée – Chessy train station outside of Disneyland-Paris and caught the RER A (Réseau Express Régional) regional train into Paris proper where we used the Paris Métro system to picked up the key and settle into our apartment in the Belleville neighborhood of the 19th arrondissement.

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The next morning Tracy and I walked about the Île de la Cité and Latin Quarter visiting the Panthéon to see the photo project that we took part in Carcassonne and hoping to spot our photos in the display used to disguise the scaffolds used to refurbish the monument. (Carcassonne – Au Panthéon Photo Project)  Then it was off to Aéroport de Paris-Orly to wait for Casey and Megan’s arrival.  It was our first time at the Orly Airport so we took the RER B line early in order to figure out international arrivals.

Aéroport de Paris-Orly
Aéroport de Paris-Orly
Aéroport de Paris-Orly
Aéroport de Paris-Orly

We were excited to see that Casey and Megan arrived without any problems.  We skipped the baggage claim area since they both joined us in our “Fast and Light” method of having a single backpack each for luggage and we were off to the RER for the ride to Paris talking all the way.  We headed back to the  Île de la Cité 

 

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We “barnstormed” Paris trying to visit as many sites as we could squeeze in.  Megan had her first experiences with a subway with the very busy, but useful Paris Métro.  She was the only one of us not to be reversed and turned-around using the street and subway map.  We visited Notre-Dame de Paris (a must for Casey who  is a major fan of Hugo’s The Hunchback of Notre-Dame), explored the Renaissance and Egyptian sections the Louvre Museum, walked the Avenue des ChampsÉlysées from Place de la Concorde to the Arc de Triomphe de l’Étoile, Casey and Megan added a “Love Lock” to the Pont des Arts bridge, and enjoyed a chautauqua-type tour of the Eiffel Tower visiting the historic military radio room in the foundation and getting an “insider’s” view of the elevator system with a view paris from above the second level’s Restaurant le Jules Verne.  

Next venue on our itinerary:  Marseille.  A first for all of us.

Part 1:  Paris with Casey and Megan: Notre Dame, Palace of Versaille, Eiffel Tower, Love Locks, and the Louvre

Part 2:  Marseille with Casey and Megan:  Train Strike, Chateau d’If, Vieux-Port, Phare de Sainte Marie, and Notre-Dame-de-la-Garde

Part 3:  Rome with Casey and Megan:  RyanAir, Pantheon, Colesseum, Roman Forum, and Trevi Fountain

Part 4:  Vatican City with Casey and Megan:  Vatican Museum, Sistine Chapel, Necropolis Tour, Saint Peter’s Basilica, and Saint Peter’s Square

Part 5:  Carcassonne with Casey and Megan: La Cité De Carcassonne, Château de Montségur, Mirepoix

 

Carcassonne – Tour de France 2014

We were able to watch a part of the internationally renown Tour de France bicycle race. Leg 16 started in Carcassonne.

Tour de France Logo  (Wikimedia Commons)
Tour de France Logo
(Wikimedia Commons)

The 101th running of the Tour de France’s stage 16 raced through Carcassonne literally a half block from our apartment.  This stage was the longest of the 2014 race with 237.5 kilometers (148 miles) from Carcassonne traveling west up through the Pyrénées mountains and finishing in the village of Bagnères-de-Luchon near the Spanish border.

Tour de France 2014, Stage 16 (Reuters)
Tour de France 2014, Stage 16
(Reuters)

The Tour de France was actually two events for us.  The first was a parade of sponsor’s floats, called the Tour de France Caravan at 8:45.  Dozens of cleverly designed floats drove by throwing novelties, t-shirts, hats, and samples.

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At 10:45 the racers (followed by their support vehicles) sprinted past as they circled the town and headed west.  We got to see the traditional yellow jersey on Italian bicyclist Vincenzo Nibali at the head of the pack of the 22 teams.  Although this was the mass start at the beginning of the race with careful riding through the narrow, twisting city streets, the entire pack of nearly 200 racers past us in less than 20 seconds.  We were cheering for US racer Tejay van Garderen who was in sixth place overall.  Thirty-four year old Australian Michael (‘Mick’) Rogers used his experience to climb the five peaks and power through the 237.5 kilometers (148 miles) to win this stage with a time of 6 hours, 7 minutes, 10 seconds.

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After the chase cars, there were support trucks, motor coaches, and media mobile broadcast trucks.

We had a great morning experiencing in-person an event that has been exciting the world for over a hundred years.  We are also anxious to learn if Vincenzo Nibali will be the overall winner when the Tour de France’s concludes this weekend.

Tracy at the Tour de France 2014
Tracy at the Tour de France 2014
Route of the 2014 Tour de France. (Wikimedia Commons)
Route of the 2014 Tour de France.
(Wikimedia Commons)

The Motif Of The US Flag In France

I find it interesting how often I see French people wearing clothing and or using advertising and decorating items based on the US flag’s iconic “stars and stripes.”

I’ve often wanted to take photos of French locals wearing interestingly designed US flag themed clothing.  Out of respect for their privacy (and not wanting to look like some kind of deranged stalker) I haven’t been photographing actual people. But with US Independence Day approaching, I thought I’d share a sampling of “stars and stripes” items I’ve seen in local stores.  Great Britain’s Union Jack flag designs and New York City items like New York Yankees ball caps and t-shirts are very popular too.

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Surviving Two National Transportation Strikes – While Traveling France With Visitors.

“Life is what happens to you while you’re busy making other plans.” ~John Lennon

So after all of Tracy’s meticulous travel planning in anticipation of son Casey and his fiancée Megan’s arrival in France; after our pre-purchase of train, flight, and venue tickets; and after our pre-paying for hotel reservation, we were surprised with a sudden rail strike which turned out to be the longest since 2010.  While “industrial actions” are always a possibility in France, this one took us totally unprepared.

A high-speed train TGV Duplex from SNCF. Wikimedia Commons
A high-speed train TGV Duplex from SNCF. Wikimedia Commons

Casey and Megan arrived in Paris in early June and while exploring the “City of Lights” together, Tracy and I checked the English-language online news (The Local and France 24) and learned that two of SNCF’s (the French national rail service) four unions, CGT and Sud-Rail had started what will eventually turn out to be a 10 day strike.  Most strikes in France in recent years are 24 hour “rolling strikes” with prior public notice that cause a minimum of inconvenience.   But this rail strike was called on short notice because of major rail system reform legislation scheduled in the French Parliament that week and the strike would uncharacteristically drag on day after day after day.

So when the time came for the next leg of our trip, traveling from Paris to Marseille, we took the RER commuter train from Paris to the Gare de Marne-la-Vallée – Chessy train station to catch our previously assigned seats on the Ouigo high-speed train to Marseille.  (The Ouigo in SNCF’s alternative to discount airlines with re-liveried TGV trains with cost-saving online booking and the absence of a cafe car but with very comfortable deluxe seats with fares starting at €10.)  Unfortunately, once we arrived at the train station we learned our train (along with two others of the day’s previous trains which were also headed south) had been canceled.  But, we were told by the SNCF staff that there was one southbound TGV train still scheduled in two hours. The SNCF official told us that if we managed to “get on that train and the doors are able to close” we could ride that TGV as an alternative to our canceled train. Space on the train was “first come, first serve,” for passengers without assigned seating like us.

So we embraced the “lifeboat rules” of traveling during a major train strike in France.  We played cards and waited for the alternative train, keeping a close eye the electronic status board, and hoping that train didn’t get cancelled at the last-minute.  Casey and Megan became “Platinum level” participants in the “French National Sport” of surviving strikes. Both maintained absolute positive attitudes and great humor while waiting for our alternative train.  We talked and played cards to wile away the hours as we waited.  When the train arrived, we were waiting at the front of the queue with the regular passengers and a good portion of extra passengers from the three cancelled trains.  As we searched for space, the four of us ended up with many others passengers in a first class car standing in the entryway like commuters in a crowded subway car during rush hour.

Casey, Megan. and Tracy playing cards and waiting for the train.
Casey, Megan. and Tracy playing cards and waiting for the train.
Megan and Casey waiting.
Megan and Casey waiting.

The train’s doors managed to close, it started rolling southbound, and we all sighed with relief that we made the train.  Now it was time to get comfortable (or as comfortable as possible) for the 3 hour + trip to Marseille.  Casey and Megan were kind enough to give me a spot on some steps entering a first class cabin (my old leg injury makes being stationary while standing painful.)  They both found a seat on the floor of the entryway way.  Tracy stood in the first class cabin doorway for the first two hours of the trip (and diverting air conditioning into the entryway.)  During the trip our fellow surplus passengers also found seats sitting on their bags, the floor, and one person sitting in the car’s restroom commode.  We were envious of our ticketed first-class companions in their assigned seats, but the overall mood of all the passengers was friendly and helpful.  Casey used his high school and college French to speak with a French father with his wife and two sons. Tracy helped support an older woman standing next to her in the cabin doorway.

Casey, Megan, and Tracy standing in the entryway on the train to Marseille
Casey, Megan, and Tracy standing in the entryway on the train to Marseille
Megan and Casey sitting on the train floor.
Megan and Casey sitting on the train floor.

About two hours into the trip at the stop at Avignon, the first-class cabin that Tracy was standing near had four seats open up as those passengers disembarked.  The four of us luxuriated in the first-class seats for the remainder of the trip to Marseille.  We had a pleasant conversation with the other foursome in the cabin, a group of slightly older Parisians on their way to their condo on Côte d’Azur (the French Riviera).  One of the Parisians was a French engineer who spoke excellent English.  He and Casey, a newly graduated engineer, discussed their shared profession.

When we arrived in the Gare Saint-Charles (Marseille) train station and we congratulated ourselves on remaining calm and successfully working around the rail strike on that leg of the trip.

Casey and Megan at the Marseille marina.
Casey and Megan at the Marseille marina.

While the rail strike dragged on, day after day, we toured Marseille and then got ready for our next leg to Rome.  We made use of the shuttle bus – rather than the train – out to Aéroport de Marseille Provence (Marseille Provence Airport) and later used the same bus upon our return to Marseille from Rome.

After our return from Rome, our next leg was scheduled to be Marseille to Carcassonne by the Bordeaux-Nice Intercités train in assigned seating.  Although the train strike was still on, this train was one of the 60% of routes still running. SNCF had hired additional station workers during the strike to help confused and stranded passengers in the train stations.  All of our questions about our train were answered quickly: our train was still running and would run straight to Carcassonne with no changes or delays.

We were expecting another over-crowded train like what we previously experienced from Gare de Marne-la-Vallée – Chessy to Marseille, but we were pleasantly surprised to have a cabin to ourselves with no overcrowding at all.  We assumed that this late into the strike, local commuters were choosing to postpone or finding alternative transportation for their travel.  We enjoyed the scenery of the southern French from Gare Saint-Charles (Marseille) through Nimes, Montpellier, Sète, Béziers, Narbonne, and finally home to Carcassonne.  While Casey and Megan were staying with us in Carcassonne, the rail strike finally ended after ten days.  We were thrilled that we had “dodged the bullet” with the train strike because Casey and Megan had to eventually return to Paris by train.  The ten-day rail strike was the longest since 2010.

SNCF Departure Board
SNCF Departure Board
Megan and Casey on train
Megan and Casey on train

As the end of Casey and Megan’s visit in Carcassonne approached, we learned that we took the “all clear” on transportation strikes for granted too soon.  Two French air traffic controller unions had voted for a six-day strike with the threat of impacting air passengers with 14,000 hours of delays, hundreds of cancelled flights, and a reduction overall of 20% of the air traffic through France. The air strike was scheduled to begin the day before Casey and Megan’s departure back to the US.

Tracy and I monitored Casey and Megan’s return flight to the US on British Airways.  It looked promising with their flight appearing to be one of the non-impacted ones. But the British Airways website had the caveat that we needed to confirm the flight 24 hours prior to departure because the strike situation was volatile and flights were subject to change.  Luckily, the first air traffic controller union almost immediately settled their strike and the second air traffic controller union called off their strike the Wednesday prior to Casey and Megan’s departure on Thursday.

So in the end, Casey and Megan caught the Intercités train with assigned seating to Montpellier where they took the Ouigo TGV train to the Gare de Marne-la-Vallée – Chessy just outside Disneyland-Paris.  Casey and Megan spent a day at Disneyland-Paris before flying home to Reno, Nevada the next day from Aéroport de Paris-Charles-de-Gaulle (Paris Charles de Gaulle Airport.)

Both Casey and Megan left France with metaphorical Gold Medals that we all earned in beating the French transportation strikes of June 2014.

Megan and Casey at the Disneyland-Paris entrance.
Megan and Casey at the Disneyland-Paris entrance.

 

 

Meatless May Recap

We celebrated the end of our Meatless May experiment with cheeseburgers and fries! But in all honesty, it wasn’t totally meatless either, we also had a mid-month secret shawarma night.

I have to say that I did not miss meat all that much. We normally have a few meatless meals during any given week anyway, so it wasn’t a huge drastic change. And, with just a few adaptations — most of which involved substituting mushrooms for meat — my standard “go-to” recipes didn’t change.

I did have the chance to create a few new dishes from scratch that turned out to be rather good.

The first was a homemade falafel. I had an idea of the basic ingredient list and just winged it. That happens a lot in my kitchen, ingredients get tossed together in amounts that “look good” and we basically go from there. This time I lucked out and came up with something very yummy. I don’t have a food processor but found that the pestle from my countertop mortar/pestle set and the colander with the narrow slits worked great for mashing chickpeas. So I used about 5 oz of chickpeas (half a can rinsed in the colander before I mashed them), a handful of homemade breadcrumbs that are pre-seasoned (garlic salt, parsley and grated parmesan cheese), about 1/2 a handful of diced hot green chili peppers and an egg. When it’s all squished together and shaped into small patties (roughly the size of a dollar coin) and quickly pan-fried (about a minute on each side) make a very tasty falafel-ish patty. Then I warmed tortillas, added a bed of chopped lettuce, topped that with four falafel patties and then drizzled on a spicy mayo (a tablespoon of mayo and a teaspoon of that red rooster hot chili sauce). Turned out pretty yummy.

The second recipe that came out was actually a salad dressing, an orange-ginger-sesame tasting one. I used about 1/2 cup of brown sugar (here in France it’s crystalized like white sugar, but tastes very similar to the brown cane sugar in the US), the juice from 1/2 an orange, a tsp of grated ginger, a tablespoon of soy sauce and a tablespoon of sweet Thai chili sauce and boiled it all together until the sugar was melted and it because syrupy. Then as it cooled I added about 3 Tbsp of toasted sesame seeds. Worked great as a salad dressing, but I can’t wait to try it as a marinade for shrimp!

I also came up with a strawberry balsamic dressing that turned out pretty good. I used 2 tsp balsamic vinegar with 2 tablespoons-ish of strawberry jam, threw in a clove of chopped garlic and roughly 1/2 cup of olive oil put everything in a jar and shook it to mix. Turned out pretty good as well.

I think my favorite dish was the peanut butter sauce for pasta. It was so simple to make and tasted so good that we had it quite a few times while I perfected the flavor a bit. I used about 1/2 cup of peanut butter, 1/3 cup of soy sauce, 1/3 cup sweet Thai chili sauce, 1 Tbsp of that red rooster hot chili sauce and a ladle full of the pasta water when the pasta was done cooking. I tossed the cooked spaghetti with the peanut sauce and added in some sauteed mushrooms, raw green hot chili pepper that I diced super fine and some raw carrots that were julienned. Turned out to be a new family favorite. Even the dog likes this sauce.

So basically, we didn’t starve or eat just salads for a month. Early in the month I messed up and didn’t balance proteins at a couple of meals. I got pretty shaky and was kinda wobbly. But once I started adding nuts or beans to nearly every dish that problem was self-correcting.

Overall I felt better than I had for the first few months of the year. I really enjoyed the challenge of coming up with new things to make. We got rather adventurous with the vendors at the Saturday market and picked up things we had never seen before to try in different meals. Some were okay, some were disgusting, a few were things we’d heard of but had never cooked with before and have become new favorites, like the bettes which I think is a type of chard. It tastes like kale but is even easier to cook and tastes good raw as well. The spinach from Spain is a current favorite. It’s so good I just love it in everything — even tried it in falafel the other night, turned out pretty good!

Alan dropped even more weight, I think I actually gained weight — go figure! Probably the most interesting side effect was the fact that I lost all cravings for my carb-y snacks was able to leave the soda behind as well.

We talked about it one night and the thing I missed most was my grilled goat cheese and tuna sandwiches. Alan really missed the duck pizza from the pizza kiosk guy around the corner — that guy makes wickedly delicious pizza. Alan prefers the duck, I like the smoked salmon and goat cheese.

I doubt either of us would switch to a completely vegetarian diet, but I think both of us can cut back on the animal proteins and not feel deprived. This year is dedicated to healthy changes and I think that switching to a primarily vegetarian or pescetarian diet would definitely be a healthy change.

Writing A Check In France

Although we’ve had a French checking account for about a year, we’ve been exclusively using the account’s credit/debit card, the Carte Bleue, for in-person and online shopping. We have never bothered to obtain an actual checkbook from our bank in France.  We very seldom used checks in the US because of the prevalence of online payments.

But, we recently had a need for a chèque issued on a French bank, so I set about acquiring a French checkbook called a Chéquier or a Carnet de chèques. I went online to BNP Paribas, our French bank, and searched for the link to order a Carnet de chèques.  Of course, the website is in French and after stumbling around web pages for a good while using with my limited French language skills, I decided I needed some help locating the correct link.  

I “clicked in” to the BNP website’s “chat” function to “speak” with a bank representative who was extremely helpful.  Totally embracing technology, I had one computer window open to the BNP website, a second window open to chat with the bank representative, and a third window opened to Google Translate to expedite the conversation with the French speaking bank rep.   I worked through the  online conversation and finally located the right web page to order chèques.  However after reaching the correct webpage, I was offered the somewhat confusing options of:

Cheques Options
Cheques Options

While I understood the options of  ordering 1, 2, or 3 carnets (books) of chèques with either 30 or 60 chèques each, I had to do some additional online research to figure out exactly what the differences were between chèques portefeuille barréschèques ordinaires barrés, and chèques à talon barrés.  After visiting several online Expat forums I learned that: 

Chèque portefeuille: has checks that are attached and tear away from the top like the majority of US checkbooks.
Chèque ordinaire:  has checks that are attached to the left side like a book and tear away from the left side.
Chèque à talon:  checks that are attached and tear away from the top, but with a”stub”(à souche) that gets left in the checkbook with a space for a personal memo.

Now understanding the options better, I selected the chèques portefeuille barrés (the choice most similar to what we have for our US checkbook) and “clicked” to have the Carnet de chèques mailed to us rather than the option of having the checkbook sent to our local bank branch for pick-up.

Carnet de chèques
Carnet de chèques

A week later, the Carnet de chèques arrived in the mail.  First thing I saw was that French chèques are noticeably larger than US checks.

Size Comparison: An US Check On Top Of A French Chèque
Size Comparison: A US Check On Top Of A French Chèque

Also different from the US was a receipt included which had to be signed and returned to the bank acknowledging that the checkbook had arrived, there are no missing checks, and that the checks are printed correctly.  Apparently the checks are not valid until the return receipt has been received at the bank.

There is a very specific formula to writing French checks.  While US checks and French chèques look similar, there are several differences in their formats.  The most obvious difference that a chèque written on a French bank is required to be written in French.

Sample French Chèque
Sample French Chèque

Line 1.Payez contre cheque,” “Payez contre ce chèque‘,” or “Payez contre cheque non endossable.”  The top line on US checks is where the payee’s name usually goes, so it’s important to know that Payez contre cheque means “Pay against this cheque (this amount)” not “Pay to the order of” like is found on an US check.  On the top line of the chèque you spell out the amount to be paid using French words.  For example €87,50 needs to be spelled out as “Quatre-vingt-sept Euros et cinquante centimes” or “Quatre-vingt-sept Euros et 50/100 c.”  I still struggle with understanding French numbers, but there are many “How to write a check in France” websites with “Numbers to French Words Converters” that look very helpful.

Line 2. “” On this line the amount for the check is written in numbers.  Remember that in France the comma (virgule) and the period (point) are used in writing amounts are reversed from the way the comma and the period are used in the US. For example: Two thousand eighty-seven Euros and 50 centimes is correctly written as €2.087,50 and not as €2,087.50.

Line 3. “A” This is the payee space that you write in the name of the person, company, or organization to whom the amount is being paid.  A chèque for Mr. Dubois is written as M Dubois (for Monsieur Dubois),  Mrs. Dubois as Mme Dubois (for Madam Dubois), or Miss Dubois as Mlle Dubois (for Mademoiselle Dubois.)

Line 4. “Fait à” or “A“.  A departure from how checks are written in the US, on this line you write the name of the city of where the chèque is being written, for example “Fait à Carcassonne” or “a Paris.”

Line 5. “Le”  This is the date line where today’s date is written.  Remember that the European standard for writing a date is “day-month-year” (like the US military standard of writing dates.)  A chèque written on Christmas day would be correctly written as 25-12-2014, not as 12-25-2014.  Christmas day could also be correctly written as 25 décembre 2014.  (The French do not capitalize the first letter of a month.)

janvier = January
février = February
mars = March
avril = April
mai = May
juin = June
juillet = July
août = August
septembre = September
octobre = October
novembre = November
décembre = December

Line 6. Beneath lines 4 and 5 reading “Fait à Carcassonne le 25-12-2014″ is the space for a signature.  There is often no actual “line” provided on French chèques for a signature like is usually found on US checks.

So now, with a Carnet de chèques in hand and understanding the format for writing a French chèque, we are finally ready to write that check.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Absentee/Overseas Voting From France

Tracy and I believe that it is essential to participate in the privilege and right of voting in the US.

One major issue we have read in the many expat forums is Americans who say that they have had difficulties voting while living abroad. But so far our voting experience has been very positive.  I wonder with the ease we have navigated the process if some of those voting complaints are from the distance past or because of a person living overseas misunderstanding of the process to obtain a ballot.

Since 1986 there has been the “Uniformed and Overseas Citizens Absentee Voting Act (UOCAVA)” that requires that all overseas citizens be allowed to register and vote in federal elections. For Nevada, the Secretary of State web site explains the absentee/overseas process on its “Military/ Overseas Voting” page.  The web page also supplies links to individual Nevada counties’ Registrars of Voters and to the Federal Voting Assistance Program that assists both military and civilian overseas voters.

Our Washoe County Registrar of Voter’s web site is also very helpful with a form request page that carefully explains the absentee/overseas process:

“ABSENT BALLOT REQUEST

An absent ballot request form can be filled out and processed at the beginning of each election year.  Your absent ballot request is only valid for the calendar year in which we receive it.  It is important that you specify which election(s) you are requesting a ballot for.

THE DEADLINE TO SUBMIT A REQUEST FOR AN ABSENT BALLOT IS THE TUESDAY PRIOR TO ANY ELECTION, AT 5 PM.  WE STRONGLY URGE YOU TO SEND IN YOUR REQUEST AS SOON AS POSSIBLE.  REMEMBER, YOUR VOTED BALLOT MUST BE IN OUR OFFICE BY 7 PM ON ELECTION DAY IN ORDER TO BE COUNTED.

BALLOTS WILL BE MAILED TO OVERSEAS AND MILITARY VOTERS 45 DAYS PRIOR TO ANY ELECTION. BALLOTS WITH OUT-OF-STATE MAILING ADDRESSES WILL BE MAILED 40 DAYS PRIOR TO ANY ELECTION AND BALLOTS WITH IN-STATE ADDRESSES WILL BE MAILED AT THE 30-DAY MARK.
 IT IS IMPORTANT THAT YOU PLAN ACCORDINGLY. 

You can print, fill out and mail or fax the Absent Ballot Request form below to us.  (Remember, your signature is required.)  If you find that the address you have listed for the Primary Election will not be valid for the General Election, please submit an updated request.  We cannot accept changes by phone.  Please call us if you have any questions.  (775) 328-3670″

We downloaded a “Absent Ballot Request Form” for each of us, completed the form, attached copies of our Nevada driver licenses, and mailed the form to the Washoe County Registrar of Voters.  The form gave us the option to request an absentee ballot for a specific election or for every election during the calendar year (which was our choice.)

Washoe County Absent Ballot Request
Washoe County Absent Ballot Request

There is obviously some personal responsibility and pre-planning of deadlines required by an American living overseas to be able to vote. It is not an automatic process. A new request needs to be submitted every year.

Our absentee/overseas ballots for the primary election arrived in France on May 5 for the primary election scheduled June 10.

Absentee Ballot Envelop
Absentee Ballot Envelope

Inside the envelope is the primary ballot for my political party, “Instructions For Washoe County Military, Military Spouses And Overseas Vote-By-Mail Voters” in both English and Spanish, a notice that a candidate for office has died but remains on the previously printed ballot (also in English and Spanish), a “Secrecy Sleeve” to protect privacy, and a special return envelope.

Absentee Ballot Materials
Absentee Ballot Materials

After marking our selections of candidates on the ballot (in black or blue ink only, to be read by an electronic scanner), there is an elaborate six-step process to protect our privacy while ensuring the integrity of the absentee voting process.

Ballot Mailing Directions
Ballot Mailing Directions

Once our Byzantine directions for signing and sealing the envelopes are accomplished, all that is left is a quick trip to la Poste (the post office) to add an €1,78 international stamp to each envelope (about $4.90 total) and give the ballots plenty of time to make it back to Reno by 7 p.m. June 10.

We also have the ability to confirm our ballots arrived at the Washoe County Registrar of Voters by visiting myvoterfile at the Nevada Secretary of State’s web site.

Our patriotic duty to vote is done until the general election on November 4.

Ballot Envelopes
Ballot Envelopes