First Renewal of Our Residency Permit (Titre de Séjour)

Tracy and I are fast approaching our first anniversary of living in France.  This anniversary requires that we renew our Residency Permit, our Titre de Séjour.  Although the French government has been considering creating long-stay visa with a 4 year expiration date, those have not been approved yet.  So for at least the first five years of residency, a Titre de Séjour must be renewed annually. (France Mulls Longer Visas for Expats.)

Titre de Sejour
Titre de Sejour

When we first arrived in France, we needed to immediately make appointments with the Immigration Office, OFII (L’Office Français de l’Immigration et de l’Intégration, in Montpellier for a review of our paperwork and a medical check up. (See our previous blog post OFII Medical and Titre de Sejour.)  But our renewal needs to be submitted to the local Prefect Office having jurisdiction over the district in which we live rather than at the OFII .  A Prefect Office is the representative of the French national government and Ministry of the Interior at the local level.  Visiting the Prefect Office is like visiting a local “Federal Building” in the US.  There are 101 districts in France, each with its own Prefecture.   Since the city of Carcassonne resides within the District of Aude, our Prefect Office is the Préfecture de l’Aude.   No train ride is required to another city like when we had to visit OFII in Montpellier.  Conveniently  for us, the Préfecture is located walking distance from our apartment at 52 Rue Jean Bringer in the historical Bastide of Carcassonne.

Préfets de l'Aude
Préfets de l’Aude

The Préfect de l’Aude is located within the former Bishopric Palace of Carcassonne’s Catholic Diocese that was originally built in 1760.  The Prefecture Office was moved into the building after the establishment of the French Consulate system of government after 1799.

PRÉFECTURE DE L'AUDE À CARCASSONNE
PRÉFECTURE DE L’AUDE À CARCASSONNE

Although Tracy and I haven’t yet had any difficulties with the legendary French bureaucracy (in fact government offices have been surprisingly helpful and efficient to date) I wanted to get started early to hopefully “head off” any potential problems.

In January 2014, three months before our Titre de Séjour’s expiration date, I went to the Prefect Office to pick up a renewal form and make an appointment. I wanted enough time to allow for requesting documents from the US and their mailing time.   It’s a pretty building, but “government offices” are “government offices” around the world with the feel of waiting at the DMV or Social Security office.  I was given a number and directed to the waiting area.  While sitting in the waiting room I had a nice conversation in English with an Italian expat and his Australian girlfriend.  He was helping her renew her residency.  Sadly, they were called in by their representative before I could learn many details of their immigration experiences.  But I was also quickly called in to see my representative.  She did not speak English, but between my pre-translated request letter and fledgling French I was able to pick up the application and make a return appointment for February 28.

The renewal application was a single page asking for our name and address in France and a list of supporting documents with only nine items. The application asked us to bring the original documents for the Prefect to inspect and photocopies to submit with the application form .  Of the nine items on the supporting documents list, 0ne item doesn’t apply, two overlap, and two are “stationery” items.  It appears to be a simple process.  In addition to the application form we also needed to produce:

Applications and supporting documents
Applications and supporting documents

1.  The current  Titre de Séjour, residency permitto be renewed.  Our initial Titre de Séjour is actually a “sticker” that OFII attached to a page in each of our passports (which are required as Item 2.)

2.   US passport valid through the end of the visa.

3.   Any documents of changes in civil status (marriage, divorce, widowed).  This does not apply as there had obviously been no changes in status for either of us.

4.  Proof of financial independence.  Documents that prove we are financially stable and independent.  We have bank statements, letters of recommendations, and pension statements.

5.  Statement of honor (Attestation sur l’Honneur) in our handwriting that we will “not to exercise any professional activities” in France without prior authorization.  Basically a statement that we will not be working or seek ing employment in France.  We located an online a sample letter of the correct format to use and translated our letters into French.

6.  Proof of domicile by evidence of a recent electricity bill.   Jason, our landlord, provides utilities as part of our rent so we do not have an electricity bill.  Jason was kind enough to provide the apartment’s power bill, his identification information, and his own  Attestation sur l’Honneur to verify our residency as his tenants.

7.  Four passport photos taken at the convenient photo booth at the local Monoprix supermarket.

8.  Stamped, self-addressed envelope.

9.  Tax Stamps (timbres fiscaux) for payment in the amount of €106 each.  The timbres fiscaux were purchased at a local convenience store, a tabac, designated to sell tax stamps.

 Tax Stamps (timbres fiscaux)
Tax Stamps (timbres fiscaux)

Tracy, the queen of organization, prepared our individual dossiers of application forms and supporting documents that follows the list right down the line.

We arrived at the Préfect about 10 minutes early for our appointment and were given slips with numbers, but escorted directly to the Residency Permit office.  There was a young couple completing their appointment ahead of us.  It was obvious from the discussion and body language that they had apparently came to their appointment without all their necessary documents and were sadly leaving empty-handed.

Tracy and I were invited into a cubicle and our Préfect representative very professionally went through our application and dossiers of supporting documents.  It was obviously she was very pleased with Tracy’s organization and efficiency with the presentation.  Our representative did require “proof of civil status” which we wrongly assumed we didn’t need  since there had been no change.  However we also brought to the appointment our “mobile file cabinet” binder/briefcase with originals of all our essential documents and we were able to produce the marriage certificate that our representative required.  She allowed me to make a quick photocopy and add it to our applications.

At the conclusion of our appointment the representative gave us each an elaborate Récépissé de Demande de Carte de Séjour, a receipt that allows us to continue to live in France until final disposition of our applications by the Préfect.

The representative also gave us an e-mail address at the Préfect to contact after 30 days to inquire if our  Cartes de Séjour have arrived for pick-up at the Préfect.  My understanding is that the renewal (if granted) that will replace our initial Titre de Séjour, residency permits “stickers” and would be issued in the form of an identification card, a Carte de Séjour Think of the Carte de Séjour as the French equivalent of an US Citizenship and Immigration Services’ (USCIS)  “Green Card,” although a “Green Card” represents permanent residency in the US and this Carte de Séjour will need to be renewed again in another year after issue.

From beginning to end the entire appointment took 30 minutes.  Our representative was friendly, helpful, and very efficient.  Overall it was as good of an experience as possible aided, I believe, by our efforts to be well prepared and organized to help make our representative’s job as easy as possible.  Now we wait for the next 30 days and hope for a positive answer to our requests.

Récépissé de Demande de Carte de Séjour
Récépissé de Demande de Carte de Séjour

Carcassonne: Le Transporteur d’Images on the Canal du Midi

February 2014 brought the traveling photography exhibition, Le Transporteur d’Images (“Carrier of Pictures”), to Carcassonne.  The Transporteur d’Images is a mobile art gallery based in a converted river barge that is sailing on the Canal du Midi.  The 150 mile long (241 km) Canal du Midi was built in the 17th century and connects with other rivers and canals to create a continuous waterway from Mediterranean to the Atlantic Ocean.  The Canal du Midi, has been designated a UNESCO World Heritage site since 1996.

Map of Canal du Midi. (Image courtesy of Wikimedia Commons)
Map of Canal du Midi.
(Image courtesy of Wikimedia Commons)

Captain Frédéric Journo with crewman/artist Gauthier Fleuri uses the traveling art exhibition as a method of creating awareness that historic trees lining the canal have been destroyed.  Many trees along the route have had to be removed due to a spread of canker disease.  Since setting sail from Sète in late July 2012, the Transporteur d’Images has raised €10,000 in donations for re-planting trees along this waterway with the sale of pictures, books, and posters.

Le Transporteur d’Images was one those unusual surprises that makes living in Carcassonne such a pleasure.

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Le Transporteur d'Images
Le Transporteur d’Images

Carcassonne: Place Carnot, the Town Square

One of our favorite places in Carcassonne to spent time is in Place Carnot, the central town square near the middle of the Bastide Saint Louis (also called the Ville Basse – lower city), the modern city of Carcassonne that lays below the medieval citadel of  la Cité de Carcassonne.  (Google Earth:  43°12’48.39″ N   2°21’06.21″ E)

Bastide map indicating Place Carnot's location.
Bastide map indicating Place Carnot’s location.

Place” is French for “square.”  Place Carnot, while one of many squares scattered throughout town, is the “heart” of the city, the central square since medieval times that has been the main meeting place and market for the lower town.  Place Carnot is where the open-air vegetable, fruit, and flower market is held every Tuesday, Thursday, and Saturday.  This is the place to sit and enjoy a morning café creme or afternoon Pastis at one of the many cafés’ outdoor tables and watch people walk past.  Place Carnot is where you can enjoy watching children chase pigeons past the Fountain of Neptune or skate on the seasonal skating rink that is assembled during the Christmas season.  This is where many free musical events and an occasional wine tasting are hosted during the year.  If you have an image in your mind of leisurely South of France town life, this is where that image would play out.

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The history of the square is very rich.  “At the junction of (the main streets of rue de Verdun and rue Georges Clemenceau) . . . , royal surveyors marked out a large square. After 1355, the square was reduced to the size we see today. By doing so, Rue Pinel and Rue de l’Aigle d’Or were created. After the fire in 1622 which destroyed more than 150 houses and the arcades filled with shops round the square, a new corn market (now the covered market) was built on the site of the Officiality. This cleared the square. On 27th December 1792, during the French Revolution, Jeanne Establet, or Joan the Black, was guillotined here with two of her accomplices. Two years later, Father Henri Beille, Vicar of Alet, a non-juring priest became the only victim of the Reign of Terror when he was executed. During the Napoleonic Empire, the square was renamed Place Impériale. It became Place Royale during the Restoration of the Monarchy, then Place Dauphine, Place de la Liberté and Place de la Révolution, Place aux Herbes (1852) and, finally, Place Carnot (1894).” From “Our French Retreat” 

My understanding is that the square is named in honor of Nicolas Léonard Sadi Carnot, French military engineer and physicist, known as the father of thermodynamics.  However I have had difficulties confirming that fact.

The surface is a mix of paving stones inset into square or spiral patterns.  At the center of Place Carnot is the marble Fountain of Neptune (La Fontaine de Neptune).  The fountain is surrounded by a rose-colored marble basin from the village of Caunes-Minervois which has been producing marble since Roman times.  Neptune was sculpted by Italian artist Barata and his son and finished around 1771.  Beneath Neptune are marble figures of dolphins and naiads.  Tracy and I joke that after seeing the stunning sculptures in Florentine and Roman fountains, Place Carnot’s somewhat anorexic Neptune appears to have been created by a “junior varsity” sculptor.  Our research into the additional works by Barata has yielded nothing.  We wonder if he was a “one hit wonder” in his day.

Fountain of Neptune (La Fontaine de Neptune), Place Carnot, Carcassonne
Fountain of Neptune (La Fontaine de Neptune), Place Carnot, Carcassonne

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The perimeter of the square is lined with trees and at each of the four corners is a small lion-headed fountain in the base of a candelabra of street lights with copper shades.  Around the outer perimeter are numerous cafés and restaurants with their outdoor tables, chairs, umbrellas and awnings; clothing, cosmetics, tobacco, and food shops; four banks (including ours); and a pharmacy.

Place Carnot is great location to stop and sit, have a café-espresso, and enjoy the sun on your face (especially at La Petit Moka, our current favorite café.)  Or you may order another Pastis and silently toast Joan the Black who met her final fate in the square by guillotine.

La Petit Moka Café, Place Carnot, Carcassonne
La Petit Moka Café, Place Carnot, Carcassonne
Adam, Tracy, Kiara, Alan, and Liz take a wine, beer, and champagne break in Place Carnot in the Bastide of Carcassonne
Adam, Tracy, Kiara, Alan, and Liz take a wine, beer, and champagne break in Place Carnot in the Bastide of Carcassonne

Learning to Speak French in France

“So . . .  do you speak French?”  A common question I was asked last year before we departed to France,  the answer was, “Hardly a word.”

Our backstory explains how Tracy and I, through a convoluted process, came to retire in France.  Prior to our retirement we did two years of Italian language study at Truckee Meadows Community College and using Italian Rosetta Stone computer software. (Our original retirement location was Italy.)  My high school and college foreign language was German, Tracy’s was Latin.

Now approaching our first year anniversary in France there is still the question, “Do you speak French?”  Tracy describes that I have an effective set of French “coping phrases” for life at the market, cafe, train station and my accent has gotten much better, but I’m still not to a conversational level.  We haven’t found it to be true that with “total immersion you will pick up the language just like that” followed by snapping fingers.  If anything, I am disappointed in my limited progress acquiring a good command of conversational French due to a lack of sufficient effort on my part.

While recently in Montpellier we met a delightful pair of five-year old French girls on the tram who chatted in English with Tracy and me.  I decided that by the end of 2014 I wanted to speak basic conversational French as well as these five-year olds spoke English (I won’t even get in to the question, “Are you smarter than a Fifth Grader.)   This seemed like a reasonable and obtainable goal.  So I made a New Years resolution to stay on a comprehensive learning schedule for French language acquisition.

There are lots of methods for second-language acquisition.  I know that I am more of a physical/aural learner so I selected audio learning systems.  Tracy decided to stay with Rosetta Stone French because she found Rosetta Stone effective for her previously while learning Italian.  (I also liked Rosetta Stone, but I wanted a system that starts with conversations and doesn’t require performing the learning in front of a computer.)  We would have liked to attend a French language class in a traditional classroom, but there was no cost-effective classes in Carcassonne (but there are some really expensive one-on-one tutoring available.)

The programs I picked are certainly not the best and only options, but these are the learning programs I selected for my personal andragogy (adult self-learning) and learning style.  The biggest success factors I think for any adult second-language learner is their motivation and perseverance.  There is no “Magic Bullet” of the perfect learning program, no “learn French in just 10 days.” Learners must be consistent and actively involved in their self-education  like any other pursuit – golf, cooking, knitting, playing a musical instrument – there is no passive approach to mastery.

I reverted back to my pre-retirement “Type A,” overachiever personality and selected three distinctly different learning programs to learn with rather than selecting just one system.  My hope was that the different language programs would overlap subject matter, fill in holes, and reinforce the material in other programs.  I wanted audio programs for use on my iPod that could be transportable and not require that I sit at a computer to work on my language studies.  I wanted to listen and re-listen to a lesson while taking a walk, cooking, riding the bus, doing dishes, or shopping.

Pimsleur French

Pimsleur French
Pimsleur French

First, I selected Pimsleur French (http://www.pimsleur.com/Learn-French)  which is a traditional audio learning program.  The Pimsleur Method has been teaching millions of students since the 1960’s and is considered by many to be a solid, tried-and-true method that stresses active participation, not rote memorization.  Although it emphasizes formal language and is somewhat dated with its lack of computer graphics, it is still frequently rated in the top 5 or higher of language learning programs.  (http://learn-french-software-review.toptenreviews.com/pimsleur-french-unlimited-review.html)   The Pimsleur system uses four principles in its teaching method:  anticipation with “challenge and response” similar to having a conversation, graduated-interval recall to reinforce vocabulary, a core vocabulary of the most commonly used French words, and what Paul Pimsleur called organic learning, auditory learning similar to how children learn language by hearing examples and then repeating what is heard.  The lessons are in 30 minute blocks that allows total effort without fatigue.

Amazon.com offers Pimsleur French levels I, II, & III for approximately $350.00 (in January 2014).

Coffee Break French

CoffeeBreak French
CoffeeBreak French

Secondly, I picked Coffee Break French (http://radiolingua.com/shows/french/coffee-break-french/) as a second-language acquisition tool.  The audio lessons are available as a free iTunes download and from the Radio Lingua Network website (http://radiolingua.com/).  (There is also Coffee Break Spanish and Coffee Break German available as well as a series of brief audio lessons in 24 languages ranging from Arabic to Zulu.)   The original concept was to make language training conveniently available “during a daily coffee break.”  These well produced audio lessons use the fun learning device of the instructor, Mark Pentleton (an experienced French and Spanish teacher), working with a college-aged student.  This Socratic technique makes the lessons fun and upbeat while allowing the student to act as a proxy for me in a classroom.  Most lessons are in 20 minute blocks, with approximately 100 lessons currently available and new lessons being frequently added.  Part of the charm of Coffee Break French is that the instructor Mark Pentleton is Scottish.  Although his English instruction has a distinctive Scottish burr, his French pronunciation is properly accented.  While there is paid supplemental content available from the Radio Lingua Network,  I only needed the professional lesson guides to accompany the audio lessons. Well worth the extra cost as I the lesson guides have helped me with my reading of printed French, building my vocabulary, and to better understand the conjugation of French verbs.

Coffee Break French has emphasis on proper French grammar as part of the lessons, something the Pimsleur program does not dwell upon.  Like the Pimsleur method, the lessons revolve around conversations based on real-life daily activities.

I selected the Bronze membership, which provides a set of 40 lesson guides for £27.00 (in January 2014), although there are periodic discounts and I was able to purchase the lesson guides for just £21.60.

FrenchPod 101

FrenchPod 101
FrenchPod 101

Finally, I selected FrenchPod 101. (http://www.frenchpod101.com/) A popular audio language program with free audio lessons, but I haven’t found FrenchPod 101 as well-organized or structured as the Pimsleur or Coffee Break French.  What I do like is that the FrenchPod 101 offers lots of cultural insights, daily life in France, and casual French phrases.  The cultural insights was one thing I greatly enjoyed in our TMCC Italian class with our professor, Carlo, who described his growing up and living in Italy.  The lessons are usually less than 10 minutes with an energetic native French speaker and an American who is fluent in French.  The discussions sound like two college-aged people talking about speaking French or living in France.  The lessons include the use of casual and informal French language along with proper formal French.  The lesson guides are helpful, but frequently do not exactly match the lessons’ dialog.  There are about 300 lessons, but it is difficult to organize the lessons into a well structured schedule of study.  It seems that the parent company, LanguagePod 101, (http://www.languagepod101.com/) provides the free audio lessons as a device to market paid subscriptions its to online training platform.  I  used my initial seven-day free trial to download the audio lessons and lesson guides that I was actually interested in using.   Another learner who wants to work from their computer might like to join the “FrenchPod 101 Learning Community” and use its additional tools.

I use FrenchPod 101 as a supplement for its cultural insights and expanding my knowledge of informal French.  I wouldn’t use this for my primary learning tool.  

I do one lesson each from Pimsleur French, Coffee Break French, and FrenchPod 101 everyday, Monday through Friday.  I leave the weekend free to rest or catch up on any overdue work.

Supplements

Duolingo
Duolingo

Duolingo

I use the free language-learning site Duolingo on my Kindle as educational entertainment.  Its graphics are very similar to Rosetta Stone learners’ interface. It is a very worthwhile learning platform that I should consider working with more often.  Amazing quality for a free service.  It’s pretty fun too.

Flashcards

Being a physical learner, I find creating my own flashcards has the dual purpose of physically writing words down that I can later use to quiz myself.  The audio learning programs do need supplements to assist me in learning to read French better.

Readings: French Newspapers, Menus, Grocery Items

I do my best to read the local newspaper online and physical newspapers while in cafes, as well as review menus, and read the names describing items in the store.  The newspapers and menus challenge my reading comprehension.  I find shopping reinforces my vocabulary when I see a physical object (apples, shoes) next to a sign (pommes, chaussures.)  This is part of that “total immersion” experience to learning French.

Notebook

I keep a pen and notebook in the camera bag that I always carry.  I find new words while I am out in the community that I am unable to define and make a note, then check on the word once I return home.  Interesting how those words stick in my growing vocabulary.

Talk and Listen

I try to push myself to speak and to carefully listen to the local French people around me.  It makes me practice, increases my confidence, and forces me to try to “think in French” not “translate English into French.”

DELF Challenge

DELF
DELF

I wanted to set up some tangible goals to work toward with my French studies.  There is what is called the Common European Framework of Reference (CEFR) which is the guideline used in Europe to describe a person’s fluency in other languages.

The CEFR classifies learners into six levels:

A Basic User

A1 Breakthrough or beginner
A2 Waystage or elementary

B Independent User

B1 Threshold or intermediate
B2 Vantage or upper intermediate

C Proficient User

C1 Effective Operational Proficiency or advanced
C2 Mastery or proficiency

The French National Ministry of Education (Ministre de l’Éducation Nationale) provides testing for diplomas of achievement (Diplôme d’études en Langue Française – DELF) at each level of proficiency.  (I believe this is similar to the United States’  Test of English as a Foreign Language exams – TOEFL.)  There is a DELF exam for each of the six levels that test for four different language skills:  listening, speaking, writing, and reading.

So, if I am understanding this certification process correctly, I want to test my second-language acquisition progress with the DELF testing.  My goal is to earn at least the DELF A1 diploma in 2014.

So, with no “Magic Bullet,” I had better stay on track with my learning schedule for 2014. Someday soon I may be speaking as well as a five-year-old.

Carcassonne: Adam and Liz Exploring la Cité de Carcassonne and Canal du Midi

While visiting with us in Carcassonne, Adam and Liz had the chance to tour the medieval city, la Cité de Carcassonne, a couple of times.  We refer to it as “the castle in our backyard” since it is right up the street from our apartment.

Adam and Liz in front of the medieval city la Cité de Carcassonne
Adam and Liz in front of the medieval city la Cité de Carcassonne
Adam and Liz in front of the Narbonne Gate of the medieval city la Cité de Carcassonne
Adam and Liz in front of the Narbonne Gate of the medieval city la Cité de Carcassonne
Adam and Liz in front of the Aude Gate of the medieval city la Cité de Carcassonne
Adam and Liz in front of the Aude Gate of the medieval city la Cité de Carcassonne

A UNESCO World Heritage Site and dating back 2,500 years, the medieval city of a Cité de Carcassonne has 52 towers and two concentric walls with a total of three kilometer of ramparts.  Within the walls is a 12th century chateau built by the Trencavels, the Vicomtes de Carcassonne and the Basilique Saint-Nazaire-et-Saint-Celse de Carcassonne (the Basilica of St. Nazaire and St. Celse).  Jousting is still performed annually in the baileys of the citadel’s walls.

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We were also able to take a short barge cruise with Adam and Liz down the section of the Canal du Midi that passes through Carcassonne.  The 17th century Canal du Midi, a UNESCO World Heritage Site,  is described by UNESCO as a “360-km network of navigable waterways linking the Mediterranean and the Atlantic through 328 structures (locks, aqueducts, bridges, tunnels, etc.) is one of the most remarkable feats of civil engineering in modern times. Built between 1667 and 1694, it paved the way for the Industrial Revolution.”  The canal is used primarily today for recreational boating.

Liz and Adam enjoying their Barge cruise on the Canal du Midi
Liz and Adam enjoying their Barge cruise on the Canal du Midi
Tracy and Alan having fun on a barge cruise on the Canal du Midi
Tracy and Alan having fun on a barge cruise on the Canal du Midi

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During our explorations there was always time to relax, talk, enjoy a meal, or have a cold beverage.  Then on to exploring more of Carcassonne and France.

Adam, Tracy, Kiara, Alan, and Liz take a wine, beer, and champagne break in Place Carnot in the Bastide of Carcassonne
Adam, Tracy, Kiara, Alan, and Liz take a wine, beer, and champagne break in Place Carnot in the Bastide of Carcassonne
Adam, Liz, and Tracy with the Ferris Wheel set up in Square Gambetta for Festival de Carcassonne.
Adam, Liz, and Tracy with the Ferris Wheel set up in Square Gambetta for Festival de Carcassonne.

 

 

Narbonne Plage: Swimming in the Mediterranean Sea

With the temperatures reaching up into the 90s, we wanted to visit the Mediterranean with Adam and Liz.  We tried to facilitate a SCUBA dive, but had difficulties getting connected to dive shops in Narbonne.  So it was off to the beach for old-fashioned “sun and surf.”

The Narbonne Plage (Narbonne Beach) is one of several Mediterranean Sea beaches in the Languedoc-Roussillon region.  Narbonne Plage is well west of the Côte d’Azur (known in English as the French Riviera) on the Mediterranean coastline in the southwest corner of France.  The beach is 5 km of wide, fine sandy beach with a marina and restaurants.  It is a public “locals’ beach,” or rather the “poor man’s” Riviera, with all the beauty of the Med without the extravagant cost of the Côte d’Azur.  

We caught the regional TER (transport express régionaltrain from Carcassonne to Narbonne and then took one of the special summer buses to the beach. There were many other beach-goers on the bus with us.  Surprisingly, Narbonne Plage is 25 minutes away from the train station, with a scenic view of central Narbonne and the Montagne de la Clape mountain range along the way.

Adam and Liz enjoying the Mediterranean Sea at Narbonne Plage
Adam and Liz enjoying the Mediterranean Sea at Narbonne Plage

Fortifying ourselves with food and sangria (and a bit more sangria) we ventured out into the water.  Beautiful sandy beach, very minimal crowds despite the full bus, warm water with a beautiful gradient of color from green to deep blue as the water gets deeper.  There were lifeguard stations, lifeguards in Zodiac boats, and a police presence with swimsuit-wearing officers from the CRS Police (Direction Centrale des Compagnies Républicaines de Sécurité – Central Directorate of the Republican Security Companies; DCCRS).

While Tracy and I contented ourselves with wading, Adam and Liz splashed right into the sea for a swim.  Wonderful day of water, walking the beach, investigating the marina, collecting shells, watching the surf fishermen, SCUBA divers (we knew there had to be divers there), and sailboats.

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We took a different bus back toward the train station that normally stops several blocks away from the station.  However, our driver very kindly drove us all the way to the bus stop at the train station.

Getting A French Bank Account

A project I started in the first few weeks after we arrived in Carcassonne was setting up a French bank account.  This wasn’t the same as those people you read about in the news with numbered foreign bank accounts in Switzerland, the Cayman Islands, Bermuda, or Luxembourg as a tax dodge.  Our  intentions is to follow the financial rules and to stay under the $10,000 maximum balance in a foreign account that would require a FBAR, or “Report of Foreign Bank and Financial Accounts,” Treasury Form TD F 90-22.1 be filed with the US IRS.

We wanted a French bank account for three common sense reasons.

The first reason was that to minimize foreign transaction and conversion fees from our US bank.  An international wire transfer currently has a flat $35.00 fee compared to being “nickel and dimed” with withdrawals and conversion fees  every time we patronize French ATMs and businesses with our US bank cards. Being on a fixed income we want to minimize the monthly fees that we can control.  It would be less expensive for us to transfer one larger amount of cash into a French bank account and use a local debit card for purchases.

Secondly is that France was one of the innovators of the “Chip and Pin” style, EMV credit/debit card.  (EMV is Europay – Mastercard – Visa, a global standard for integrated circuit cards and “IC” card capable “point of sale terminals” and ATMs used to authenticate credit and debit card transactions.)  While a traditional US style cards will work in many ATMs and at some businesses in France, many businesses will only accept the “Chip and PIN” style card or not understand how to “swipe” a traditional US card.  We wanted greater flexibility in our day-to-day life and our US bank is not issuing “Chip and PIN” cards yet.  Regular US cards (with some exceptions) are not scheduled to transition to “Chip and PIN” EMV technology until 2015-2017.   On their recent visit to France, Adam and Liz found their US cards worked at the ATM but not in restaurants or clubs.

Finally, there are times when technology fails and an ATM or business does not get a response back from international data lines and computers with US-based cards.  We wanted a back-up in the event of sunspots, earthquakes, satellite outages, volcanos, undersea cable breaks, or the “Blue Screen of Death.” I like  “belt and suspender” redundancy.  We also wanted a backup in case our US card is lost or stolen.

The process of setting up a French bank account took about 12 weeks for us to complete from beginning to end.  Because our US bank is Bank of America, we selected French bank BNP Paribas (the fourth largest bank in the world) who is Bank of America’s foreign partner in France.  Because of this affiliation, Bank of America will waive some fees.

We made an appointment at the local BNP and met with a very helpful bilingual bank officer.  The only snag was that she was bilingual in French and Spanish. (We are very close to Spain in Carcassonne.)   Between our rudimentary French, my old police Spanish, basic Italian, Google Translate, and our bank officer’s very basic English we started the process for a bank account with the “Chip and PIN” style debit cards referred to as Carte Bleue.  We left the meeting with the paperwork started, but we needed to return with additional documentation of our residency.

Between our first and second appointment to the bank we had our meeting with OFII (L’Office Français de l’Immigration et de l’Intégration – French Immigration) which (after a medical exam, chest x-ray, and application review) granted us our Titre de Sejour (resident permits) to upgrade our original visas.

Titre de Sejour
Titre de Sejour

On our second appointment at the bank we brought photocopies of our Titre de Sejour and a detailed copy of our lease with rent receipts to prove our residency in Carcassonne.  What our bank officer normally needed by bank policy was also a utility bill (gas, electricity, a land-line telephone)  as further proof of residency at the address.  We explained (often using pantomime, Italian, and pidgin French) that all the utilities were in our landlord’s name and without a local bank account we could not start a utility account.  After conferring with her bank manager the solution was found to send us a registered letter at our address to sign and return as final proof of residency.  A very elegant and helpful solution.  We appreciated that the bank’s management could “think outside the box” and work with our odd circumstances.  In anticipation of the final approval by the bank manager, our bank officer finished the paperwork, assigned us an account number, and told us to return once the registered letter was signed to pick up the bank cards.

The registered letter arrived three days later which we signed and had the receipt sent back to the bank.  Soon after claim tickets for our Carte Bleue debit cards arrived in the mail along with “Welcome Customer” letters from BNP.

Now for the confusing part.  We went to the back to pick up the cards and were told that they hadn’t arrived from the manufacturer yet and to come back in a week.  A week later we were told the same thing.  The third week we were getting worried that with our inadequate French, we had missed a step in the process.  Should we have made an initial deposit into the account before the bank would release the cards?  The fourth week later we spoke with our Bank Officer who was able to convey that because of the internal electronics it takes the manufacturer four to six weeks to make the cards and asked us to be patient and the bank would call us when the cards arrived.

In the mean time our son Adam and his fiancée Liz arrived for a visit and we put the bank cards concerns on hold and had a great visit with them.  The day after Adam and Liz left, we received a call from the bank (I stumbled through the telephone conversation in French) that our cards had arrived.  After a short walk to the bank (with lunch on the way) we were proud owners of our Cartes Bleue and had officially established a functioning bank account in France.  It took two appointments over six weeks and six weeks of waiting for the cards to be manufacturer and arrive at the bank.

Another small step in establishing our expat life in Europe. Now we will work on the online International Transfer process with Bank of America. We expect to have everything set up, validated, and our first wire transfer completed by the middle of August – just in time for our Camino trip!

Alan and Tracy's Cartes Bleue
Alan and Tracy’s Cartes Bleue

Our First Visitors: Adam and Liz Travel to France

We were thrilled to have our first visitors since we started our expat life abroad.

Our youngest son Adam and his fiancée Liz spent 18 days with us.  We combined the visit with travel to Paris, Barcelona, the Mediterranean Sea, and sharing our adopted home in Carcassonne.  I plan to write about their visit by breaking it up into an individual blog postings for each of the different locations we enjoyed exploring together.

Alan, Tracy, Liz, and Adam in front of the Pyramid at the Louvre Museum in Paris
Alan, Tracy, Liz, and Adam in front of the Pyramid at the Louvre Museum in Paris

It was such a pleasure to share our new life with Adam and Liz (and to congratulate Adam on earning his bachelor degree just a few weeks previous to their visit.)  We explored shared interests in great cities, history, cultures, lifestyles, art, travel, architecture and enjoyed conversation, food, and drink.  Adam and Liz are vegetarians so we had an opportunity to examine a totally different food culture in our travels than we had previously had a chance to try.  Adam juggled on the streets of Paris, Liz sampled Sangria in Barcelona, we splashed in the Mediterranean, Adam and Liz demonstrated their Spanish language skills, we celebrated Adam’s 22 birthday (and Adam and Liz attended a performance of his favorite band that just happened to be in town on his birthday for Festival de Carcassonne), and all of us (including Kiara) watched France’s biggest fireworks extravaganza for Bastille Day with the medieval city of Carcassonne as a backdrop.

Adam, Tracy, Kiara, Alan, and Liz having a wine, beer, and champagne break in Place Carnot in the Bastide of Carcassonne
Adam, Tracy, Kiara, Alan, and Liz having a wine, beer, and champagne break in Place Carnot in the Bastide of Carcassonne

All in all, it was a spectacular visit which made us look forward to our next visitors.